Head removal to fix oil leaks?

[Sparkrite]

I have got alot of oil leaks from my tc engine which seem to come from around the base of the head and the front joint of the engine block. Rather than removing the engine and box and doing a major teardown I was thinking that for a quick part fix I could just remove the head and waterpump/timing cover. Is this unwise, or a big/difficult job.

[4129R]

Not something I would attempt to do.

Taking the engine out is not that difficult if the exhaust manifold nuts come undone easily.

[Blitzen]

That’s what I’m doing to replace the waterpump but my body is off.   I can’t imagine doing it in place with the body on.   

[Bryan Boyle]

I have got alot of oil leaks from my tc engine which seem to come from around the base of the head and the front joint of the engine block. Rather than removing the engine and box and doing a major teardown I was thinking that for a quick part fix I could just remove the head and waterpump/timing cover. Is this unwise, or a big/difficult job.

I was going to do the same...but then read Rob's book and what he went through trying to do it in situ.  Since I need to do the clutch anyway, I'm just going to pull the damn thing and get it over with on a stand where I'm not bent over the sides or straddling the tranny and trying to not drop a washer down the timing chest because I'm hunched over it from the back of the engine, which would mean I have to pull it anyway.

Will also give me a chance to really clean up the block, paint it, clean the tranny, and get rid of decades of accumulated spooge on the frame and rear panels.  Also, with it significantly lighter...will use the engine crane to lift the back end up high enough to replace the fuel tanks and clean up that stuff.
 

[jbcollier]

A lot of oil leaks may also indicate a worn engine.  They produce more blow-by which pressurizes the engine and pushes the oil out.  The stock TC engine does not have a great crankcase breathing system.  Even if I had just rebuilt a TC engine, I would add an extra breather in the cam cover.

[Sparkrite]

I never thought about the engine being worn. It has good oil pressure though. I will do a compression check to also give me a better idea. I still dont understand the problem with working in situ. Is it poor access for the waterpump cover. I just want to use the car for a few years before eventually pulling out the engine and then this will be part of a body off restoration.

[4129R]

Replacing a water pump and getting the cover to seal, without taking the head off, is very difficult, even with the engine out.

I would not even attempt to work on the water pump in situ, as you have to disconnect the timing chain sprockets, then get them lined up again when re-building, apart from getting the water pump seal correct.

It is very easy to drop something down into the sump, maybe, or stuck in the path of the timing chain maybe.

Gynaecologists might attempt this, but I think most mechanics would take the engine out. 

[Pfreen]

I guess it might be possible to replace the water pump insitu, but the risk is high.  The head and front cover are at 90 degrees, making the head removal almost mandatory.
The worst that can happen is the coolant and oil mix, which could destroy your engine.  The least problem would be an oil or coolant leak.  The best is that all is well.
It is a poor design, but can work if carefully inspected, cleaned  assembled.

[jbcollier]

You can do the pump in situ.  It's how it was done back in the day at the dealers.  The point people are making is that it is not easy and not the best way to do your first one.  If you feel comfortable working in tight places, it is not a problem.  Work slowly, methodically and double check everything as you go along.  There's one hitch, you plan on fitting an aftermarket front cover.  They may require some machining to get just right.  This is easy to see and do with the engine out.  Not so much with the engine in place.

I changed a timing belt in a Ferrari F355 without pulling the engine.  Not possible says the manual but it can be done.  Not fun or easy though.

[4129R]

I have just fitted the head and timed the cam sprockets and aligned the chain with the engine out. It was difficult to get the sprockets right.

I wish you the best of luck doing that at arms length with the engine in situ.

Ease off the tensioner (1/2" spanner and flat head screwdriver needed) or you won't get the second sprocket on.

[EuropaTC]

I have got alot of oil leaks from my tc engine which seem to come from around the base of the head and the front joint of the engine block. Rather than removing the engine and box and doing a major teardown I was thinking that for a quick part fix I could just remove the head and waterpump/timing cover. Is this unwise, or a big/difficult job.

here ya go....

http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=4128.msg44085#msg44085

Done it three times now and all this method. The first two were within a week or so of each other, I had a faulty (new)water pump and so had to do the job twice. It's hardly a quick fix and I doubt I'd do it just to fix a few oil leaks, if you want to drive the car this summer I'd just live with them until the water pump needed doing.

Brian

[Sparkrite]

Thanks for the link Brian. I have decided to try and seal the leaks from the outside first, and yes I understand the small chance of success doing it this way. Even the hard rubber, head to block tube needs sealing. If I can get the leaks to an acceptable level then I will live with them for now.
Can any one recommended a sealant that has worked for them in this way.

[jbcollier]

Different sealants for different places.  Get the Miles Wilkins Lotus TC engine book.  Where he recommends hylomar, you can also use Permetex Aviation Gasket Maker #3.  "Silicone sealers" need to be oil proof -- and coolant proof as well if used on the front cover.  Not all are.  In fact, most AREN'T!  Use any silicone sealers sparingly.  Loose chunks floating aroundare a BAD thing.  Always, always, let silicone sealers cure for at least 24 hours before putting adding oil or coolant.

[EuropaTC]

Sadly I've never had much luck in sealing existing gaskets apart from the cam cover one. I've used Hylomar in the past but doubt it would work externally. The last time I did that job I simply went into Halfords and read the blurb on the silicone-like gasket materials they sold and picked up a couple of tubes that I thought would work.

If the rubber tube between head/block is leaking then unless it's still very flexible I'd get a new one instead because you'll stand a much better chance of getting it to seal.

There was also a post on the Elan forum where someone had made a metal version, obviously expensive but looks to be a fit'n'forget solution if you're into that idea.

https://lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=52608 

[Bryan Boyle]

Sadly I've never had much luck in sealing existing gaskets apart from the cam cover one. I've used Hylomar in the past but doubt it would work externally. The last time I did that job I simply went into Halfords and read the blurb on the silicone-like gasket materials they sold and picked up a couple of tubes that I thought would work.

If the rubber tube between head/block is leaking then unless it's still very flexible I'd get a new one instead because you'll stand a much better chance of getting it to seal.

There was also a post on the Elan forum where someone had made a metal version, obviously expensive but looks to be a fit'n'forget solution if you're into that idea.

https://lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=52608 

That's neat (if overengineered....  I actually (in the boxes of stuff that came with 3291R) found a bag of OEM (as in lotus-parts-tagged) drain tubes.  Replaced, in situ, the leaky one that was in the car...not the cleanest install, but, it doesn't leak now.  Little high-temp silicone around the flange on both ends, slid into position (top first, bottom using a thin blade putty knife as a sliding shim) and let it set up. 

Will redo when I replace head gasket, but it will be easier that time...