Lining up stuff to do

[Bryan Boyle]

Well...I think I've accumulated enough "stuff" to actually make a dent in the pended projects.  Front end rebuild (with O/H spax and shortened springs), new set of transfer tubes (for when the engine and tranny get pulled to do the head and clutch), overhauled and cleaned/sealed fuel tanks...think I've got enough on the plate to keep me busy till summer? 

(Goal is to be able to drive to the Bristol RI British show in June...will mean going heads down with this as soon as the outside temps, thus the garage, moderate just a bit....)

One Q, though...the alternator pulley seems a bit tight to put on the end of the inlet cam...is this a case of using the attach bolt to pull it in or is there another way?  Just putting this out there...I know that it should go on just up to the snap ring but no further...any thoughts? 

Anyway...some photos of the bits and bobs ready for installation....

[Pfreen]

Measure the id and od of the cam and pulley, and make sure the right key is installed and seated.
My pulley (aluminum) goes on with little resistance.

[Bryan Boyle]

Measure the id and od of the cam and pulley, and make sure the right key is installed and seated.
My pulley (aluminum) goes on with little resistance.

They're so close (which leads me to think the pulley wasn't the one that was originally on that cam...) that it's not a soft interference fit...and ended up pushing the key out of the slot (which did not disturb either the snap ring or new seal...I was watching closely...); I measured it, and both are within a thou of each other. 

So...getting the aluminum one (and a new key...) shipped in.  Worst that happens is that I warm the new pulley in the oven for 20 min or so (luckily, I'm alone up here in MA so no one to express disdain at using the stove for car part assembly) to expand it and slip it on.

Was thinking of repurposing an old toaster oven in the shop...sometimes you DO need to heat parts to fit them...

Always something, right?