Transaxel Output Shaft Seal-Again!

[2766R]

So for the upcoming maintenance, one of the most annoying and critical items will be dressing the output shaft seals.  I have a 365 transaxel but this thread should also apply to a 352, maybe not so much to 336 transaxels.  Mine are leaking at more than an acceptable rate, ~2oz / 400mi.  No leakage when parked, drips from lower link bracket after a drive.  I replaced the O-rings back in 2020.  Seals were done in 2017 at during recommissioning at Ragtops and Roadsters.

On searching this site I came across the dimensions for the seal carrier lip seal as 36mm x 52mm x 7mm.   See:
 
http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?action=post;quote=22243;topic=1704.435

I know the seals are more than likely available from Ray/ RD Ent.  But I searched EBay and found this listing:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/233407377757

This happens to be a double lip seal which, I believe, is (IIRC) presently installed.  To be confirmed on disassembly.
What is the conciseness; buy from Ray or EBay?

One other question: should the seal be positioned towards the outboard seal bore or inboard?  Presently my seals are mounted outboard.  See photo.

When looking at Ray’s site, i.e. RD Ent, they seem to be mounted inboard.  Again, see below.

My thinking is position inboard if for no better reason than giving the lip seal a fresh surface to run on the splined spacer.

BTW, new O-rings and Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket Type-3 for thread sealing will be used.

I appreciate all thoughts, comments, and advice!

Gerry

[jbcollier]

The seals are too far "out".  Both lips should be on the spacer.  You could try carefully knocking them into the correct position and see if that improves things.

Seals have to be installed with the nuts removed as the tips of the fins are a smaller diameter than the bore where the seal fits.  Next time I do mine, I'm going to machine the seal nuts so they can be changed from the outside.

The other thing to look at is the transaxle breather.  You say it's dry unless you drive it.  It could be the breather is plugged and the pressure build up as the oil warms is causing the leaking.

A good quality, double lip seal will work fine no matter whom you source it from.  That said, I like supporting Ray and other Lotus stockists.

[2766R]

I do remember checking the breather in the past.  Checked again just to make sure, all good, totally clear.  I will check with Ray to make sure the seals will be double lip. Also I will order new spiral pins and a few extra shims.  A bit cold here now so when there is a brake.  I’m in no rush.

[jbcollier]

-31°C here tonight.

[GavinT]

-31°C here tonight.

+30°C here. 

I'm not sure about this but is Aviation Type-3 going to be too 'severe'?
I confess Hylomar is a favourite of mine and I suspect it would be a lighter touch when it comes to turning the side nuts.

[4129R]

-31'C is seriously cold.

In WWII, the Russians had to keep their tanks warm by lighting fires underneath to stop them freezing up.

I think doing similar with a fibreglass car would be unwise.

Think positive. -49.2 °C  -56.6 °F at Rabbit Kettle, in NT. That would bring most things to a grinding halt.

[dakazman]

  That’s just stay inside temp .
 
   Seal depth . See pic.

   I purchased my seals and nuts from Renault 16shop , not to bad price. I can safely say don’t use lock tite on the nuts threads.
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

The stock seals are a bit different.  They are not double lip.  They have a felt dust shield.  Make sure you grease the felt so it lasts, more to the inside than the outside.

Pet peeve time:  most seals have to be lubed before use.  A smear of grease against the sealing lip is all it takes.  If you don't, the seal will quickly wear.  Some people say the oil on the inside will lube the seal.  Not really as the oil won't get to the seal until it wears enough to start leaking.

[2766R]

Update on resolving leaking output shaft seals;

First, I need to correct the dimensions of the seal.  I originally stated 36 52 11; should be 36 54 11.  I did wind up ordering from Ray, RD Ent.  Also ordered some new shims.

Second, I mentioned the use of Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3.  Searching the net for ....No. 3 yields:
https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-aviation-form-a-gasket-no-3-sealant-liquid-4-oz/
Note that nowhere is it written on the container as 'No. 3'.  Never the less it is formulated as slow drying, non-hardening.  This is what I used this time around.

As I mentioned in another thread, I used a dial caliper to measure the height of the fin (on the bearing nut) closest to the lock  plate mounting surface threaded hole.  I took numerous measurements to establish a consistent dimension.  Also made sure of legible match marks.  It doesn't hurt to count the number or turns to disengage the bearing nut as well.  And has been emphasized by JB more than once, ONE SIDE AT A TIME! so as to ensure original backlash and axial preload on differential.

On putting everything back together, the spacer to yoke shimming was checked.  I did have to add roughly .005" per side.  My method of confirming maximum shim was to position the spiral pin in the yoke horizontally.  Then pushed and pulled the half-shaft vertically near the yoke.  Play (movement)= more shim required.  No play= shimmed properly.

So after all this, SUCCESS!   Only 30 miles so far but totally dry around bearing nut seals.  More mileage will be needed to confirm but I'm feeling confident!   



   

[dakazman]

  2766,
       Thats for posting. I'm a novice at the gearbox and all though my gearbox seals are not leaking leaking I could not comment.
 Mine is simple, the drain plug. How fast can I add some thread seal tape? 
 Dakazman
   

[jbcollier]

Unless the drain plug was left loose, drips off it are from elsewhere, usually the output seals.