Chassis closing plate - 1972 TC

[RafM]

Hi all, I'm trying to fit the front chassis closing plate but the anti-roll bar is in the way, has anybody come across this issue before?
Thanks.

[TurboFource]

It was not in the way while disassembling my TCS.

[Grumblebuns]

Are you saying that the ARB is too close to the bottom of the nose section?

Are your ARB drop links the standard length?

[EuropaTC]

The ARB should be roughly an inch or so below the plate if you have standard drop links and the plate should easily slide in place.

Can you get a photo to show us what the problem is with your car ?

Brian

[4129R]

For your help, from the centre of the mounting bolt to the centre of the ARB, the measurement of the drop link is 270mm.

[RafM]

For your help, from the centre of the mounting bolt to the centre of the ARB, the measurement of the drop link is 270mm.

I was thinking the drop links are a bit shorter than they should be, I'll check the measurement.

[EuropaTC]

I was thinking the drop links are a bit shorter than they should be, I'll check the measurement.

This is what they should look like, mine before I made them adjustable.

Brian

[RafM]

I was thinking the drop links are a bit shorter than they should be, I'll check the measurement.

This is what they should look like, mine before I made them adjustable.

Brian

I just measured them, the distance from the top mounting bolt to the centre of the ARB is 225mm where I'm advised it should be around 270mm, hence the problem. I was just going to lengthen mine, a fairly simply option, but, is there a benefit to making them adjustable as you have done, other than being able to adjust the spring rate?

[EuropaTC]

I only made mine adjustable because I've lowered the front suspension slightly and I wanted the ends to align square with the pin on the bottom of the damper. No other reason than that, I adjusted them once and they've stayed at that length ever since. 225 does sound very short, not surprised you've had trouble. Has the suspension been lowered ?
Brian

[RafM]

I only made mine adjustable because I've lowered the front suspension slightly and I wanted the ends to align square with the pin on the bottom of the damper. No other reason than that, I adjusted them once and they've stayed at that length ever since. 225 does sound very short, not surprised you've had trouble. Has the suspension been lowered ?
Brian

I got the car as an abandoned restoration project.

Most of the mechanical work, engine, chassis, suspension etc had already been rebuilt to a good standard as far as I could tell.
However, I have found a few slightly odd issues along the way, this seems to be one of them but is an easy fix. I've never really liked the standard ARB set-up due to the risk
of grounding the mounting studs/bushes on the shocks but it's not a simple re-design process.

I presume you got some standard threaded sleeve, cut the bars and threaded the ends to modify yours?
Are both ends of the links right hand thread ie, they can't be adjusted for length once in situ?

[Pfreen]

I made my links adjustable after lowering the front end  to raise the bar as far as possible to increase ground clearance.  There are many broken arb's due to running over some tall obstruction.  I gained over an inch of ground clearance.

[EuropaTC]

I've never really liked the standard ARB set-up due to the risk of grounding the mounting studs/bushes on the shocks but it's not a simple re-design process.

I presume you got some standard threaded sleeve, cut the bars and threaded the ends to modify yours?
Are both ends of the links right hand thread ie, they can't be adjusted for length once in situ?

Some folks have managed to damage the mounting studs but that's not a problem I've had. The clearance is low (3" ?) but it moves with the wishbone so you'd need a bog pot-hole to catch it. Damage to the middle of the bar is more likely I'd say but again I've not had an issue with the car as standard. But as Pfreen says, lowering the car makes you look for every scrap of clearance you can get, and raising the roll bar is an easy one.

Mine are very crudely made because I don't need continual adjustment. Cut rods, thread, weld two nuts on to a bit of tubing & grind flush. Paint and add lock-nuts, measure how much reduction I wanted, set accordingly and that was it. I could have just cut/welded the links but this gives some leeway for error & adjustment.

Brian