Outboard drive shaft removal and steering rack removal problems

[Sherman Kaplan]

I am in the process of stripping my chassis to have it cleaned and repaired.  This was not in my original plan, but when I was removing the drivers side front suspension I found an extra hole that was not part of the lotus add lightness philosophy. That is the problem with having a car sit for over 30 years in a damp barn.  The car is a 73 TCS.

 I cannot remove the outboard drive shaft from the bearing housing.  If I understand correctly from the manual you are supposed to just put the nut back on the drive shaft to protect the threads and then knock the drive shaft through the bearing housing.  I've tried hitting it pretty hard, but it won't budge.  The engine/gearbox and the rear brake was taken out before I got the car.

Also, in removing the body I was able to remove the pinch bolt for the steering column, but when I tried to remove the steering rack the top nuts came off the bracket, but the bottom bolt heads just snapped off.  The steering rack would not move and I could not remove the brackets holding the rack.  I did remove the steering column to get the body off, but I still can't get the rack off the chassis.  I've been using Kroil for a few days, but it does not seem to be doing anything. 

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Sherman

[jbcollier]

Remove the radius arm from the car and have stubborn axle pressed out.

You are going to have to use heat on the alloy rack mounts.  Heat them up and then use a hammer and punch to drive the long bolts out.

[EuropaTC]

Hi Sherman,

I'd agree with John, if you can get the radius arm/hub carrier off the car and onto a bench it should be easier to remove it. Looking at the photo, that spacer ring looks very solidly fixed. If it's mainly rust then soaking in release oil would help but if the axle splines had loctite on them as they should be, then it's possible there's some loctite under the spacer. If that's the case then it isn't going to move until you get some heat onto it.

Brian

[4129R]

I had exactly the steering rack clamp problem on 2 of my chassis.

For one, I tried moving the clamp tops with a large adjustable spanner, backwards and forwards, slightly, any movement is fine, until the caps came off, then the rack comes off , then repeat for the two clamp bases.

For the other, I used a metal chisel to prise the tops off, and bought new clamps,

Yesterday, I actually re-drilled the 1/4" holes in the chassis, and put in two new bolts facing outwards. I cut a slot in the top of the bolts with a hacksaw, about 1/4" deep, put a split washer on the head so it does not easily rotate inside the box, and then use a 7/16" ring spanner and a small screw drive in the slot to stop the nut rotating. 

[Sherman Kaplan]

Thanks,  I think I can get the radius arm off.  The spacer ring is loose, but maybe it is loctite or corrosion holding it together.  I'll try some heat and then a press.

For the steering rack, I'll try heat and moving the clamps some more.

My fear is that I will damage something either with too much heat or too much force.

Sherman

[4129R]

My fear is that I will damage something either with too much heat or too much force.

Everything is easily replaceable with the chassis out.

If you damage the steering rack casing, just let me know, I have several LHD casings spare, and they are light to post.

[dakazman]

 Just a side note , before removing the steering rack also mark the degree of the steering column.
Dakazman

[Sherman Kaplan]

With everyone's suggestions I was able to get the rack off. I used heat, kroil and a lot of pushing and pulling on the end caps of the brackets.  The back part of the bracket is still on the chassis, but I think I will let the shop that is going to repair the rust holes deal with those.  They are really stuck.

 Dakazman, I think it is too late for me to mark the steering column.  I did mark the straight ahead position with the steering wheel and column so I don't know if that will be ok when everything is put back.  I trust you mean that I should have marked the steering column u joint to the pinion shaft.  Unfortunately, I didn't think of that when I was pulling everything apart.

I'm still working on the outboard drive shaft, but I know I can get the radius arms off so I think that will be a job for the shop too.

Thank you all,
Sherman