DEAR GOD STOP LEAKING!

[HelpMyLotus]

So I did the water pump . . .THREE TIMES.  First I had the pulley flange on backwards.  Then the cup didn't seat to the chest cover.  THEN I GOT IT RIGHT.  The first time it was fully together it didn't leak a drop of oil.  Too bad it did leak water.  The second time the rear rubber arc slipped on pan install and leaked badly.  pulled the pan and fitted the rubber arc seal to the block this time, (and front) and put it back together.  Now the front slipped and isn't sealing. 

My question is: why in the heck is the seal the shape it is? It's nearly impossible to align a channel on a channel.  Wouldn't it be ideal with a ridge that sat in the ridge on the block?  I feel that a square section of cork would sit inside the ridge and seal like a charm. 

How are you guys assembling the arc seals in the pan and making them stay put and seal?

[jbcollier]

I glue them in place.

[HelpMyLotus]

to the pan or the block?

[jbcollier]

Whichever is easiest.  Glue to on surface, apply sealant, offer up the other part.

[HelpMyLotus]

Well, I got it. I was fortunate that the rear seal had bonded to the pan when I removed the pan.  That made one of the seals a breeze.  The front seal gave me the most trouble.  Looking at the seal and how it was expected to stay in place was a joke.  What I did was mount it in my vice with a jig to hold the position, then put a healthy bead of sealant on the inner arc.  I molded it to approximately the shape of the underside of the block then let it dry.  What I had was now a guide to hold it fore and aft while I put the pan on.  I did glue it to the block first but knowing the ridge would prevent it from moving was insurance.  I got the pan on and let the sealant dry for a bit.  I finally fired it up and got NO leaks from the pan, but of course the rubber tube to the head started dripping. Ends up that had gotten cocked slightly when I reseated the head.  I was able to remove it, clean it, apply way too much sealant and reinstall it.  This time I could move it around to be sure it wasn't kinked or folded.  I'm letting that set up until morning now so hopefully THAT leak is solved.

[jbcollier]

There are a lot joints, seals and rubber tubes for oil to leak out of on a TC engine.  Most leak at least some.  It also doesn’t help that breather system seems to have been designed to leak oil first and foremost with venting the engine being entirely a secondary consideration.  Fitting proper neoprene seals and an oil separator helps.

[HelpMyLotus]

My most recent leak is at the exit of the cam where the generator is driven.  I think my cork seal is either too long or too short causing oil to exit the valve cover directly on the pulley.  You can imagine how my engine bay looks now; sprayed radially. 

That may be the worst of the leaks.  I think the oil pan is fairly well sealed.  Tomorrow is another day.

Today I put about 100 miles on it on the most beautiful, twisty, switch back roads in Michigan from my house to Yankee Springs, to Hickory Corners where the Gilmore Car Museum had the Mad Dogs and Englishmen car show.  The featured car was the Lotus.  There were about 5 old and 7 new ones.  The old were two S3 elans, an S2 Europa and a 7.  There were almost 400 cars total from MG to Triumph to Jensen and Allard.  I was honored to drive the Lotus and make it safely to and from the event.

[Grumblebuns]

Congrats on a the drive.

I believe the cork cam cover gasket should be in contact with the intake cam oil seal. Time to check for any gap between the cork gasket and the oil seal.

[BDA]

Congratulations on your drive and appearance at the English car meet!

I don't have any experience with working on a TC motor but I think I remember that when I had a TC, it sprayed a bit of oil on boot lid which means that either it came that way from the factory or the leak developed from incompetent dealer mechanics.

It sounds like Grumblebuns probably has your answer.

[Pfreen]

I have a few recomendationts for sealing the cam cover and camshaft.  Fit a new cam seal.  Use the cam cover gasket fron RD Enterprises.  After my recent rebuild, I used an orignal style cork valve cover gasket.  I glue the gasket to the head with Ultra black, making sure the seal the sealant cotacts the seal.  I install  the valve cover with a litlle sealant arount the seal.  Torque the cover in two stages.  1 ft-lb and let sit for two hours.  Then, torque to 6 ft-lbs.  It sealed originally but the cork gasket started to seep oil after a few hundred miles.  After valve adjustment at 500 hours, I installed the rubberized cork gasket from RD Enterprises, and no leaks!  In fact, I don’t have one engine leak right now, a first in my 33 years of owning this tcs.  The transmission is however, still a work in process.