Studs vs. bolts

[BDA]

I'd be tempted to replace the pin for a longer one instead.

I recall this was discussed some time ago but I don't remember the outcome.
My foggy memory says that the TC lower pin is removable but the S2 pin isn't. 

Delving into the cobwebs of my memory, I am pretty sure I put red Loktite on my lower pivot pin. I had a jet nut welded on the end of my upper pivot pins. I don't remember if the TC lower pivot pin was originally locked similarly but I suspect it was since it makes taking it apart much easier.

[jbcollier]

Good lock-wire jigs work very well as long as you remember to clear the drill bit and hole as you drill.  The swarf build-up can jam the small bit and break it.

You only need washers on the outside as one, or the other, will prevent sideways movement.

[BDA]

Yes, you need a good one. Probably one with a hardened drill guide and using cobalt drill bits is probably a really good idea. Because you're drilling on an angle, it's really easy to break bits. I thought I got mine from a trusted source but it wasn't a good one and I gave up after breaking a few bits. I would expect that my technique probably left a lot to be desired too.

We discussed the issue of the bushings coming apart before. I was very lucky to have found the thread and guess who started it? You, JB! http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=1709.0

I am certain that I had a washer on the outside of all of my bushings but still got delamination (see attached picture). You brought up that there seem to be two styles of bushing and that those whose ends are rolled over a bit work best. It's very possible that the bushings that failed on my car were the "unrolled" (i.e. straight outer tube) and that was my problem but I decided to put a large diameter but thin washer between my bushing and the frame (I posted a picture on the aforementioned thread of the washer installed on my suspension but you have to look VERY carefully to see it) and the problem went away. It could also be that the replacement bushings were of the "rolled" type.

Since it was on the lower A-arm, I figure that either one arm was warped a bit or more likely, the bushing for the bottom of my SPAX shock was a bit smaller than stock and tightening it tended to try to squeeze the inboard end closer together. When I found it, I posted to the yahoo group about it and I had several people say they had the same problem. Thinking about it more now, When assembling the front suspension, I think it make sense to build the lower A-arms with shock and trunnion and put it up to the frame first to see if you should shim around the lower shock mount in case that is a cause.
 

[GavinT]

. . . I think it make sense to build the lower A-arms with shock and trunnion and put it up to the frame first to see if you should shim around the lower shock mount in case that is a cause.

Excellent point.
Given the different types of bushes available and, I suspect, different lengths, this idea certainly has some merit.

EDIT to add:
Also, Joji provided a pic of the Nyloc nut from a TCS.
That nut is shorter than the ~15 mm nut we’ve been discussing, so perhaps that's the Goldilocks solution.

[Grumblebuns]

I finally got the jet nuts in from Pegasus and doing a trial fit, it looks like they will do the trick. With a washer between the nut and the inner spacer, I have about two threads showing. Looing at the TCS nut, I'm wondering if Lotus had special lock nut made for the Europas. Anyway, I'm calling this problem fixed. Time to move on to finishing up the master cylinder installation

[BDA]

I'd call it done too, Joji,

[GavinT]

Looks good Joji.
I kinda like those flanged Jetnuts for this situation.

I agree the TCS nut looks fine.
I didn't mention it previously, but when I was checking some nuts for a reply, I accidentally picked up a 12 mm Nyloc.
It's about the same size as your TCS nut.

Anyway, it's done as you say.