Author Topic: Renovating a Petrol Tank  (Read 1109 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline 4129R

  • Super Member
  • *******
  • Joined: May 2014
  • Location: Norfolk, United Kingdom, not far from Hethel the home of Lotus.
  • Posts: 2,736
Renovating a Petrol Tank
« on: Sunday,October 02, 2016, 08:24:15 AM »
I have just spent about 1 day taking the rust off a pair of petrol tanks from 4688R, cleaning out the sh1t that was inside the tanks, unclogging the two fuel pipes, and replacing the fuel tank gauge, then spraying with primer ready for the gloss black top coat.

When de-rusting the two tops, lots of holes appeared and they looked like sieves. I intend to re-face the tops with fibre glass mat, as the tops only have to contain petrol vapour, and stop rainwater getting in. Does anyone know if petrol vapour will affect the fibreglass resin?

The tanks were lined with earth. Quite what had been in there, I have no idea. Moles, chipmunks, mud dawbers? Boiling water, a lot of sloshing around, and after about 6 flush throughs, the water came out perfectly clean, and all the sh1t seems to have been cleared out.

As for the fuel pipes, both were blocked solid with sh1t. The only way I could clear them was to use the wire from the heater controls, a pair of mole grips, and a hammer. I gently tapped the wire down the tube, about 10mm at a time, gripping with the mole grips and tapping the mole grips with a hammer. 1 pipe cleared quite quickly, but the other pipe needed a bit of straightening to the 90'bend, then clearing, then careful bending back to 90'. I then used a pressure airline, then tested the outflow by putting a bucketful of water in, and seeing how quickly it came out. All appeared fine, so the pipes, which go about 6" into the tank with a 10 degree kink in them, appear clear. 

As for the fuel gauge sensor, I bought an MGB one for about £20, but the arm was much shorter. Unlike my previous post, you cannot change the complete arms over, as the copper arm inside which slides over the wound wire to vary the resistance, is different. So I cut the Lotus float wire arm, attached it to the MGB arm with lots of lockwire, made sure the float was in the same plane as the original, and refitted the mechanism in the tank. There are three nibs which the locking ring mechanism grips on. One of the nibs kept missing the ring when the ring was tightened, so I increased the dent of the nib with a chisel and hammer, and the ring tightened up to its original position. The MGB float came with a new rubber O ring, so it should not leak when assembled.

I  also had to fit new drain plugs, as the originals had gone AWOL. 1/2" UNF bolts with lock washers seem to plug the hole nicely.

When fibreglassing the tops of the tanks, I put about 3" of water in the bottom, as the resin drips through the holes, and the water prevents the resin sticking to the inside of the tank or plugging the outlet pipe. 

Next on the list for next Saturday, tap the holes in the R&D Stromberg head for the inlet manifold plates. I have also started on the manifold to Weber plate, but cutting the correct size holes is proving a challenge. A hole cutter does not like cutting aluminium, it takes ages.  Photos to follow soon.

Alex in Norfolk.

Offline jbcollier

  • Super Member
  • *******
  • Joined: Nov 2013
  • Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
  • Posts: 5,978
Re: Renovating a Petrol Tank
« Reply #1 on: Sunday,October 02, 2016, 02:48:06 PM »
Modern fuels react with fibreglass.  It's been a huge issue in the motorcycle and marine worlds.  Line your tanks with a good ethanol proof sealer and you should be ok.

It would be better to solder, preferable silver, the two fuel gauge arms together.  Could you please post a correction to the former thread?  Just to correct the misinformation for other listers.

Offline E Paul

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Joined: Nov 2012
  • Location: Duxbury, MA
  • Posts: 102
Re: Renovating a Petrol Tank
« Reply #2 on: Monday,October 03, 2016, 05:40:26 AM »
The gasoline will attack the normally used polyester resin. There are gasoline safe (and its actually the ethanol that's the problem) resins that are used in the boating world...epoxy based.
Check out West Systems. They should have something suitable.
That said, I would cut the rot out of the tank and weld or braze in new metal. After done with that, I would go with the sealer previously mentioned. Or bite the bullet and put new tanks in.

Offline buzzer

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Joined: Mar 2013
  • Location: Beaconsfield UK
  • Posts: 672
Re: Renovating a Petrol Tank
« Reply #3 on: Monday,October 03, 2016, 08:00:52 AM »
So epoxy resin is the one to use, more expensive than polyester, but also must stronger and should have a stringer bond.
Dave,

Other cars. Westfield SEiW. BMW E90 Alpina D3. BMW 325 E30 convertible and Range Rover CSK

Offline BDA

  • Super Member
  • *******
  • Joined: Jul 2012
  • Location: North Carolina
  • Posts: 9,998
Re: Renovating a Petrol Tank
« Reply #4 on: Monday,October 03, 2016, 08:22:43 AM »
I agree with E Paul. If I kept the original tanks, I would weld (or have welded) a new top piece that didn't collect water. Otherwise, I would go for aluminum tanks. Of course if you're more comfortable with glassing it, that's an option, but I would take care of the potential for water to collect on top of the tank even with the top glassed. It always seemed silly to allow water to collect like that.

Offline 4129R

  • Super Member
  • *******
  • Joined: May 2014
  • Location: Norfolk, United Kingdom, not far from Hethel the home of Lotus.
  • Posts: 2,736
Re: Renovating a Petrol Tank
« Reply #5 on: Monday,October 03, 2016, 10:11:31 AM »
After repairing the tops with fibre glass, I intend to paint the tops, and then paint them with underseal.

The lip around the edge of the tank makes collecting rainwater inevitable. Out of the 7 cars I have, at least 6 tanks need repair, so about a 50% sieve top rate.

Alex in Norfolk.