Jacking points

[HowieRPM]

Please excuse the relatively simple question but I am new to these delicate sports cars. For general maintenance  where is the best place independently front and back to jack the car up without risk of damage ?
Thanks
Neil

[Pete]

I’ve just had this issue.

I used the flat jack that came with the car and slipped it behind the front wheel and managed to reach the big metal section and jacked it there.

At the back I just stuck a jack on the metal bar below the reg then just two stands either side on the frame of the chassis

[dakazman]

  Here is another thread that may be helpful.
http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=2627.msg25245#msg25245

  By putting, “jacking “ into the search box will also come up with a few more.
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

I jack under the front chassis "T" section.  I use a low profile jack and a thin piece of wood.  After it is in the air, I place jack stands at the outer parts off the "T" section.  At the rear I jack on the chassis tube that supports the transaxle mount.  I use this set-up for jack stands at the rear:



I will sometimes also use ramps under the wheels as jack stands, very secure that way.

Never, never, never go under a vehicle that is just supported by a jack, or multiple jacks.  It has to be properly supported by jack stands to be safe.

Do not place jack stands under the rear radius arms.  There are just box-sectioned, sheet steel and are easily deformed.

Lotuses are LIGHT.  This makes them especially dangerous as they are easily knocked off even secure jack stands.  Be careful as you try to lift or pry things while under the car.  You may accidentally knock it off the stands.  This happened to my friend as he tried to wiggle a rad back into his 70's Elite.  They found him dead several days later as his dog was howling from inside the house.

[Pete]

Sorry to hear about your mate.
I like the metal bar going across. That’s a good idea. I just had the stands going direct on the the back part of the chassis.

[BDA]

That really is a sobering story about your friend, JB. I'm sorry for the loss of your friend.

I like your method of holding up the rear too. Using three stands (one on either end of the 'T' and one under the rear hoop is a very stable setup. But one must remember that the front is jacked up and put on stands first, then the rear so there will always be at least three points of support. I occasionally forget this if I haven't climbed under my car in a long time.

[jbcollier]

It happened in the 80s.  Sobered me up as a young mechanic.  Chap was absolutely crazy.  Speedometer spent most of its time on the other side of ton.  Probably would have died in a fiery wreck if he had lived any longer.  Heck, I got my start as a mechanic as my predecessor had built a monster Chev and something went wrong somewhere on the wrong side of 130 mph.  Wasn't even a recognizable auto part to be found, never mind body parts.  You can make cars fast but you can't change the laws of physics.

[Lotsof 3146 R]

I use a low entry high rise jack, that gets the car high enough to put the ramps under the wheels.
Then the ramps have jacks that take the car much higher.
This feels safe and enables me to get under the car without fear of collapse. If I need a wheel off then I generally don’t need the car so high and am not totally under the car.
A little bit expensive (£120 for the jack and £135 for the jackable ramps), but there is no way I can fit a 4 poster in my little garage.
The engine cover is held open by the plywood- and as it’s from the ground so I avoid jacking the engine cover into the roof.

[Pete]

Love the plywood. I use a broom in mine. Cos the boot stays make it sit too high in the garage.

[Bainford]

Those jackable ramps are really nifty. I've never seen them before.