Mocking up the Banks twin link rear suspension

[Runningwild]

As you can see in the photos, the bracket did not line up with the hub. I cut off the tube from the bracket that bolts between the hub ears - where the radius arms bolt.  Now I need to weld the tube back on the bracket but it about a 1/4" space. Should I weld a flat plate on both surfaces then fill in the gap.  Any suggestions??

[BDA]

It sure looks like Richard (or one of his underlings) goofed! I don't see any way that was going to fit.

I was thinking it would be better to modify the bracket to come in contact with the tube and then reweld it, but that doesn't look like an option. I guess I would fit it to the bottom and then get it as close as possible to the tube and weld a spacer between the bracket and the tube. That bit takes the load from the upper link which means the weld will always be in shear so you should be good.

Just so you know, on mine, there is a bit of misalignment on the top link with the rubber rod ends. It's not bad but one day I may convert it to spherical rod ends, but don't hold your breath!

[EuropatcSPECIAL]

why not send it back and ask for one that is correct and ask for your postage as well. There are to many shoddy parts starting to make there way on to the market

[Runningwild]

I already went thru sending a part back and shipping was as much as the part.  Cheaper to fix this one.  I like the idea of the spherical bearing.  Thanks.  Tom

[Runningwild]

You can also see in the photo that the drilled tab to be tapped and bolted to the hub is totally wrong. Richards parts are beautifully made but if I was to do it again I'd order a hub to match.  I'll re-drill a hole in the tab between the other holes and go with just one tap I guess. 

[BDA]

I already went thru sending a part back and shipping was as much as the part.  Cheaper to fix this one.  I like the idea of the spherical bearing.  Thanks.  Tom

The grit from the road will wear out the race of the rod end. These help that out: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CF0XF78/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[EuropaTC]

You can also see in the photo that the drilled tab to be tapped and bolted to the hub is totally wrong. Richards parts are beautifully made but if I was to do it again I'd order a hub to match.  I'll re-drill a hole in the tab between the other holes and go with just one tap I guess.

hmm. it's a pity your so far away, I think like EuropaTCSpecial you have a good case for sending that back, there's a lot of work to make that right. Is the other side the same ?

But you are where you are and I must confess I don't like the hassle of sending stuff back myself.  I think I'd follow BDA's line of thought, get myself a new bit of tubing and then space it to the main body with however much 1/4" steel is needed.  As BDA says the weld will be in shear and you'll have no problem at all, even if your welding is as bad as mine !

The central tab you can re-drill as needed, to be honest I'm not sure just what the purpose of that bit serves with the upper and lower bolts in place. I can only think it's there to keep the bracket attached to the hub carrier when you're doing maintenance on the links/dampers, in which case you could do without it entirely ?

[Runningwild]

I'll call Richard Monday and ask about the tab to the hub. I'll also take the hub to a welding shop.  And yes the other side is just as bad.  On the positive side -the hubs have been machined for better bearings by the previous owner. 

[jbcollier]

Talk to Richard first.  I did not drill the upright myself and left the tab unattached.  It wasn't close (easily shimmed with washers though) and the upright is thin in that area and wouldn't provide any support.

[pto]

why not send it back and ask for one that is correct and ask for your postage as well. There are to many shoddy parts starting to make there way on to the market

   you are right they all nearly fit but not quite

[Runningwild]

Thanks. I don't like the idea of drilling the hub.  I'll talk to Richard on Monday then I'm sending everything to the guy the builds our race car suspensions. I'll tell him what Richard recommends and have him do it so it's perfect.  On to the next project!!!!!!

[Runningwild]

I talked to Richard at Banks and he confirmed that the tabs that should be drilled and tapped into the hubs are not needed. He said that the threaded tube could be cut (what I'm doing) or the shock mount could be cut then rewelded to fit the brackets.