13x6 Revolution wheels

[460384]

I am looking to buy a set of 13x6 4-spoke revolution wheels with back spacing 4".  I know many Europa owners have them on their cars.  Will it fit a Europa TC with European ride height?  Please advise. Tom/Colorado 

[Grumblebuns]

I had them on my lowered S2. The rears fit with no issues. For the front, the front inner lip may have to be cut away. There will probably some interference on full lock and compression. At least on mine it did, the inner lip broke off from contact with the tire. I had R888s fitted, your choice of tire may affect how much rubbing there will be.

I don't believe there any Revolution dealers here in the states. I ordered mine from a defunct dealer about six years ago.

Joji Tokumoto
Fallbrook, Ca

[HealeyBN7]

I have a set that is in very good condition.  From what I have learned, there are really three generations of Revolution wheels.  The set I might be willing to part with are generation 2 wheels in excellent condition.  I have 2 13x6 (for the rear) and 2 13x5.5 (for the front).  They are sized for the Europa.   I purchased them as a backup set for my Gen 1 wheels, but found with the Wilwood 4 pot Dynalite calipers, I could not clear the inner area of the wheel boss.  If you are running stock brakes, you should be fine with Gen 1 or 2 wheels.  I also have 15 wheel lugs (yep, I can't find the 16th, but I will continue to look) for the 3/8 lugs.

Gen 1 - Vintage wheels that were made in the '70s.  These wheels are not marked "Revolution" and have a more angular boss area where the spokes intersect with the outer rim.  They also offer a greater "X-factor", in that they can clear larger brakes without interference.

Gen 2 - Again these are original Revolution wheels, but were made in the 90s. They are marked "Revolution" and have a more rounded boss area where the spokes intersect with the outer rim.   The center area of the rim is also a bit more recessed and may prevent fitment of larger brake calipers.

Gen 3 - Current Revolution wheels. 

If you are interested PM me for a price.  I am in Southern California.

Dean

PS - Sorry,  but I don't know why the first few photos are rotated???

[2483R]

Tom,

I have been using 13x6 4-spoke Revolution wheels on my TC since 2002. Based on my measurements at the time, I have a 4.156 inch backspace. I use 185/60-13 tires on all four wheels. The car has been lowered, but the bodywork/fender wheels are all stock. I have never had an issue with wheel rub or insufficient clearance. Pics are at the owners gallery under the folder “Late Apex”

I cannot comment on how Revs will fit on an S2, as I have no experience with S1/S2s. But I do know the bodywork, frames, and ride height are not the same from an S2 to a TC..

Revs are still available in the USA from classic Mini Copper and Triumph parts dealers. Spitbits and MiniMania come to mind, but I am sure others exist. Obviously they will only stock Mini Copper or Triumph wheels. Yours would have to be a special order item.

Another option is Rev-o-lite made by Midlands Wheels in the UK. They are a  copy of the Revolution. I have been told it is hard to tell the two makes of wheels apart. I have found customer service from Revolution is lacking, perhaps you can have better luck with Midland.

I am very curious about your comment “TC with European ride height” What is the European ride height?

Ron
2483R

[460384]

Ron,

Thanks for your input. The European height is about the same as S1 cars and early S2 before the Fed got into the bumper height requirement. I looked your pics and your car is lowered by 2". I think that is about right.  I am planning to use 175/70R13 tires with 13x5.5 and 13x6 revolution wheels and hope it will work.

I recently bent the drop link of the sway bar on the passenger side during a drive while we were at Log35 in Colorado Springs. I noticed you moved your sway bar up in one of your pictures. It looks like you have shorten the drop links.  Where did mount the sway bar ends? Do you have to use a different sway bar? Any pictures?

Tom/Colorado
2141R & 384   

[2483R]

Tom,

Installed an above mount sway bar some 15 years ago. The swaybar itself is an Addco, shortened about an inch on each end. This will allow you to pass it through the wheel well opening from one side to the other. I used an Addco simply because I already had it, and didn’t have to spend money/time for a new one.

You can shorten the stock links and use them. I didn’t want to because someday I may want to return to stock configuration and will need those links, and Lotus parts have a tendency to turn into unobtainium quickly.

The links are homemade. They are composed of a hex coupling nut bought at the local  hardware store, a length of pipe welded to one end, and a rod end which I bought from McMaster-Carr. The rod end does not have a bearing, it is just a threaded rod with a cylindrical shaped end.

Use the stock sway bar bushings. Using a bench grinder, turn the center of the bushing until its outside diameter corresponds to the inside diameter of the pipe. Leave the ends of the bushing the factory size. This will keep the bushing from slipping up/down the sway bar.

I had a machine shop drill and ream a bolt hole at the ends of the sway bar. Install a longer bolt at the bottom of the shock. Connect the swaybar and shock bolt with a length of threaded rod and 2 rod ends. I will try to find some pics of this and post them in the gallery.

Be advised that the stock swaybar does contribute some stiffness under wheel bump/drop. The ends of sway bar move from side to side in the horizontal plane. Using an above mount sway bar will eliminate its stiffness contribution, meaning that you will need stiffer springs to keep the same handling balance you had before. Also it will be difficult to get the sway bar around the stock diameter springs, you may need smaller diameter springs. So you will have to buy new springs.

An easier/cheaper way is to leave the sway bar below mount. Make a new link as before but use a long bolt instead of a coupling nut. Cut the hex head off the bolt on weld it to the pipe section. Use a real rod end with a bearing on the threaded end. Make new bushings as before. Adjust the length of the link (by turning the rod end on the threads) until the sway bar just touches the chassis closing plate. I used this system for many years prior to switching to an above mount system.

I have written waaaay too much. But regarding European height for a TC, my understanding was that the European and American TCs were the same. Same body, frame, suspension, and height. But I could be wrong. Do you have any info on this? What is your source?

Ron
2483R

[HealeyBN7]

I took a slightly different approach to tucking in the front sway bar.  I cut and modified the drop links to add threads to the top for a heim joint.

Then I slotted the lower bushing sleeve to allow the insertion of standard bushings and welded on two tabs.  This allows me to open the bushing sleeve, insert the bushing and clamp it closed.  I got tired of fighting with the soap and stock setup.  I could have made a more elegant clamping setup, but I was rushing to get it on the road.  That is the Addco bar in the photo.

Dean

[460384]

Ron and Dean,

Thank you both for the write-up on the sway bar.  I like the idea modify the lower end of the drop links so you can use std. bushings.

Tom