Which loctite to use on the rear hubs

[buzzer]

What lecture should I use on the rear hubs as the manual says loctite high strength 35, which I can't locate. What does everyone use now.

Dave

[BDA]

Many years ago, I believe I got a small bottle from r.d. enterprises. I would check there first. After that, I would call the Loctite folks and ask them what they recommend for a splined joint.

[4129R]

I use a blue Loctite from Halfords, which comes in a small stick about the size of Vicks Sinex nose thingy.

It is like a paste, you just apply the stick to the areas you want to stick.

[jbcollier]

NO!

It's a special loctite retaining compound which sets up slowly so that it doesn't set before you have everything assembled and torqued.

It's 635:

http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797937336321

It's for the splines PERIOD.

[buzzer]

Cheers,

And good point.. On the splines only!!!

Dave

[BDA]

I believe part of it's function is to fill the voids in the splines so they don't rattle around. IIRC, it was green.

Sorry I didn't notice you were from the UK or I wouldn't have suggested r.d. 

[EuropaTC]

I've used 638 which seems to do the job. Like you I looked for the mythical "35" but couldn't find it, and that was back in the 80's !  Chris Foulds (Lotus guy, Huddersfield) told me they used 638 so I bought a 50ml bottle which....   I've still got. And rather surprisingly in these days of "sell by" dates, it still works !   (or at least it did the last time, which is probably a couple of years back now)

It's a green thick goo which makes an excellent job of filling the gaps on the splines. The only way to get it off is with a blowlamp....

Brian

http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?nodeid=8802627616769

[buzzer]

Found some 635 on eBay just life expired. Can't believe the full price!!!

[Serge]

Loctite 660 on the splines is also a good option.

For the threads you can use a wicking loctite, that you can apply after you've torqued the big nut. This way the loctite won' t mess with the torque specs.


Serge

[jbcollier]

635 sets slowly so you can get everything assembled properly without the retaining compound starting to set and affecting the torquing process.  638 is not slow setting, so you need to get it right fast, or else.  660 is a quick metal.  I don't know how fast it sets.  My advice?  Use the right stuff.

Loctite on the threads:  The nuts do not loosen, the spacers collapse resulting in a loose nut.  Putting loctite on the threads does nothing.

[EuropaTC]

Found some 635 on eBay just life expired. Can't believe the full price!!!

The price for the 50ml bottle isn't that bad and assuming it has similar lifetimes to the 638 you will still have it for the next time around for "Wheel Bearings Part II"   

In fact I might just pick up another bottle of the 638 at the prices they're selling at because I seem to remember being greatly impressed at the cost of the stuff back in the 80s, so anything under £25 sounds very cheap.

JB is right, the 638 is a faster set but not ridiculously so.  Truthfully I don't know if it is the 5 minutes claimed or not because I've never yet dismantled the hub once I've applied Loctite and bolted it up. Well, not until the bearings are on the way out anyway, which is usually a few years later. I use the same stuff on the Elan's wheel bearings because the housing is a bit worn and the gap filling properties work fine. But you do need a blowlamp to get it apart, it sticks very well.

Brian

Actually the more I think about it, I'm going to buy one of their 638's..... thanks for that Ebay Idea.