Shift Lever

[Lotusjps]

I'm curious if there are any suggestions on how to improve the connection at the bottom of the shift lever?  Went to back my car up to go to a race and the bottom of the lever broke off right at the middle of the bolt hole.  I had been using the original set up, though with oiled brass bushings rather than plastic ones.  I had thought of using a heim joint, though don't want any extra side to side movement.  I was hoping to find a rod end with a linear bearing (rather than spherical) though can't find one (other than a picture of one on the lotus-europa.com page, and it was from a mothballed fighter plane).  The only other thought I have is using a poly bushed rod end, though I'm concerned about how smooth it would be going fore and aft.

Here's a link to it: http://steinjager.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=16061&search=&tierOne=Universal&tierTwo=Poly+Bushings%2C+Female&tierThree=5%2F8-18+RH&tierFour=1%2F2+Bore&tierFive=1.50+Wide&tierSix=Zinc+Plated+Housing&tierSeven=

[Grumblebuns]

I do have a linear type rod end installed on my S1 shift lever courtesy of a gift from a Europa owner. He was a former flight mechanic in the Air Force and collected a stockpile of surplus rod ends before being discharged. I've also been looking for them without success. I can't believe that they're military or aviation application only. I've attached a couple of pictures of his modification.

[LotusJoe]

R.D. has a spherical replacement and plate. $81.00 for all three pieces.


And I suppose you always make the shifter out of titanium, providing money is no object.

[Lotusjps]

I ended up coming up with another solution that I'm pretty happy with.  Bought a 5/8" solid female rod end from Steinjager, and a couple of air frame bearings of ebay.  Air frame bearings have the inner race slightly wider than the outer race.  I bore out the hole in the rod end to accept the bearing and made a 0.1" spacer.  Then cut down the rod end to maintain the same distance from center of the bearings to the fulcrum point (keeping the ratio the same as the original).  Cut the end off the original sifter and threaded it (very tough metal to thread btw).  I then made a new clevis for the end of the shift rod using 1"x 3/16" steel, and again made sure the distance to the holes were the same as the original.  Got it all installed this weekend and the shifting is amazingly precise, smooth, and not even the slightest amount of slop. 

[Grumblebuns]

I haven't given up looking for the non spherical  rod end bearing yet. I'll take the one that I have and see if a bearing supply shop can match it. If not I'll go the route that you took. Very nice design.

Joji Tokumoto
Fallbrook, Ca

[Lotusjps]

I spent many hours (days) searching online for a linear bearing rod end.  Eventually figured if I can't find it, make it.   

Using a female rod end helped simply it, and the end of the shift lever is just the right size for a 5/8" thread.