Author Topic: Dilkris Bodywork 2227P - Help  (Read 589 times)

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Offline Kendo

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Re: Dilkris Bodywork 2227P - Help
« Reply #15 on: Tuesday,August 20, 2024, 04:20:49 PM »

Offline GavinT

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Re: Dilkris Bodywork 2227P - Help
« Reply #16 on: Tuesday,August 20, 2024, 10:27:54 PM »
G'day, Dilkris,

It's probably worth reading the 'Body' section of the workshop manual - particularly 'B.3 Accident repairs'. and 'Assessing Accident Damage'.
Overall, the basic information has stood the test of time, though there are sometimes modern/better products available and many people skin these cats a little differently anyway.

https://lotuseuropa.org/workshop_manual.htm

As an aside, I'm always amazed to read Lotus saying the panel thickness is 0.093" (2.3mm).

Offline Fotog

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Re: Dilkris Bodywork 2227P - Help
« Reply #17 on: Friday,August 23, 2024, 09:52:56 AM »
Not meaning to differ from anything Brian has had to say, I'll add my 2 pence about gel coat.

This is from knowledge gained from years of working on boats, then digging into the Lotus.

Gel coat is just polyester resin (like used in typical fibreglass layups), but optimized to be an exposed surface layer.
  • It's optimized for color
  • It is resistant to UV degradation
  • It can be polished to a high gloss
There's none of that on my 1972 TC.  And no need, as it's going to be painted.
When making the body, first step is to spray resin into the mold.  Then a 'chopper gun' is used to deposit glass strands for reinforcement.  Then more resin is sprayed to encapsulate the glass and complete the layup.

Pretty simple.  And in the case of the Lotus bodies, too much resin is used relative the the glass reinforcement, resulting in lots of opportunities for stress cracks to form.

Anyway, don't concern yourself with gel coat, as you don't have any.  When you sand through the paint, the next thing you see is the thin layer of resin that was deposited on the female mold before applying the glass strands.

-Vince