Author Topic: Newby's first request  (Read 991 times)

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Offline 4129R

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Re: Newby's first request
« Reply #15 on: Tuesday,May 28, 2024, 09:32:46 AM »
I have known the 1/2" diameter nut on the 5/16" UNF bolt holding the UJ to the rack, to hit the chassis
« Last Edit: Thursday,May 30, 2024, 01:45:17 AM by 4129R »

Offline HoraceM22

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Re: Newby's first request
« Reply #16 on: Wednesday,May 29, 2024, 11:17:45 PM »
So, when I sit by the side of the disc, grip it and go from lock to lock, it really does make a low rumbling sound and is not really smooth at all. After contacting a few specialists to get and idea of where I might get a replacement, one of the guys said to just take it off and gave a look inside myself, something I hadn't actually considered (or done in 55 years of mechanic'ing). Again, sitting and looking as my wife turned the wheel from lock to lock, it's more or less silent and smooth! Strange.
The bloke also said to undo the track rods to ensure the trunnions are rotating freely - they were.
Can the rack be removed without taking half of the inside of the luggage bay apart? It certainly looks like it's a question of undoing the four retaining bolts and the pinch bolt on the pinion and it should come off. Is that right? I did see about undoing the lower part of the column to assist in sliding the rack forward, but I think that was referring to an S2
Answers on a here would be most helpful
ATB
H.
HoraceM22

Offline EuropaTC

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Re: Newby's first request
« Reply #17 on: Wednesday,May 29, 2024, 11:37:16 PM »
Can the rack be removed without taking half of the inside of the luggage bay apart? It certainly looks like it's a question of undoing the four retaining bolts and the pinch bolt on the pinion and it should come off. Is that right? I did see about undoing the lower part of the column to assist in sliding the rack forward, but I think that was referring to an S2
Yes, that sounds about right but personally I'd take off the closing plate to give you clear access to everything. It might be a struggle but will make putting it all back so much easier.

When I've done it I've had to move the bottom universal joint an inch or more to get it clear of the rack and the easiest way is to slacken the clamp holding the lower part of the steering column from inside the footwell.

On the "rumbling" I don't think mine's that smooth either if I do as you've described. The leverage is all wrong, you're pushing the rack/pinnion at an angle whereas with the steering wheel everything is lined up properly. Depending which road wheel you're turning, a worn rack support bush would make it even worse by letting the end of the rack move up/down as well.

Other things to look for - that univeral joint breaking up/loose bolts (never seen it personally but possible) or marks from where a bolt head/clamp has been binding ?   

Offline 4129R

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Re: Newby's first request
« Reply #18 on: Thursday,May 30, 2024, 01:56:56 AM »
When undoing the long 1/4" UNF nuts and bolts holding the rack to the 2 clamps, one of those pairs of bolts has the 7/16" head inside the chassis. It is a pig to get at to stop it turning. There are 2 ways of stopping the bolt from turning when undoing the 7/16" nylok nuts.

1) Get a long 7/16" combination spanner (wrench) and bend it into a C shape so you can get the O part of the spanner onto the bolt head inside the chassis.

2) Cut a slot in the threaded end of the bolt with a thin hacksaw, and put a thin screwdriver into that slot to stop the bolt turning and undo the nut with a ring spanner.

If those bolts come out of the chassis, they are a real pig to get back into place.

Mark the position of the rack where it meets the two clamps, as its position should be absolutely central so that the arms on the ends of the rack are exactly the same length, or else the steering will not feel right and you might get bump steer.

I was told by a Lotus employee that the length of those arms is critical to the millimetre to get the car to handle properly over bumps.

Offline HoraceM22

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Re: Newby's first request
« Reply #19 on: Friday,June 07, 2024, 09:01:00 AM »
So, after NOT having to fix the lock, and checking the steering column, I moved onto the rack itself. After reading the "would be" Workshop Manual, and not finding most of the stuff it tells you to remove I just undid the four rack location nuts / bolts. (why they didn't just put four captive nuts inside the crossmember I don't know, but hey-ho!) after then undoing the column nut and grub screw
I could remove the rack and after numerous phone calls I had an amazing stroke of luck. One of the Lotus specialists gave me the best kept secret in the Lotus world. THE NAME OF  A COMPANY WHO MAKE AND REPAIR RACKS! Yes really, and for £25 each, I'll tell you who they are.....
It's Regal Engineering - or Powerracks and for me they're only 30 odd miles away at Mountsorrel, just north of Leicester.
I gave them a call told them my situation, and the very helpful guys said "Yes we can sort that out for you, bring it up" So I took it up early the next day they were open (only Tues, Weds & Thurs) gave him the rack and he called me about mid-afternoon to say that it was done. And only £180 incl. tax Bingo. picked it up the next morning and fitted it. The guy said it was bent by 6mm or so (1/4") and that it had been shimmed incorrectly and that would have caused the locking as the pinion went over the point of bend.
Just had the tracking set and now we're onto the next bug to iron out. Finding how to get a DAB+ aerial set up without having to fix it to the 'screen.
NEXT.....
the next day at about r 
HoraceM22

Offline 4129R

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Re: Newby's first request
« Reply #20 on: Friday,June 07, 2024, 09:08:19 AM »
Make sure you put the rack back completely central with the same length of floppy arm including track rod ends both sides, and that you have just over 1 steering wheel turn each way when the wheels and steering wheel are in the straight ahead position, and make sure the 1/2" lock nut on the bottom of the UJ does not hit the chassis.

Offline HoraceM22

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Re: Newby's first request
« Reply #21 on: Saturday,June 08, 2024, 03:13:06 AM »
Cheers again guys. Re the positioning of the rack, mine has two "flange plates" that locate against the mounting brackets, so that it can only be positioned in one place. Regarding accessibility of the bolt head inside the crossmember, I did indeed have to sacrifice an OE spanner, bending it about 30 deg. such that I could get it on. Annoying but it had to be done. got a couple of shiny replacements at the National Kit Car Show at Malvern last weekend. 
Jobs to still be done:
Try and re-position the bite point for the clutch nearer the floor
Make the clutch pedal so it only needs one person pushing it!
Fit a Dab+ radio - I can't be without music - I hope I can find an aerial that doesn't need fixing to the screen, I've read that a splitter does the job.
HoraceM22

Offline Kendo

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Re: Newby's first request
« Reply #22 on: Saturday,June 08, 2024, 07:45:41 AM »
RE aerials, since we have fibreglass cars, some have had success placing one in the front trunk.