TCS Delco Alternator parts update

[FourLoti]

Hello: The Delco Remy DN460 alternator on my '74 TCS recently started putting out up to 17v and pegging the ammeter. Which is actually sort of a milestone, since it's the very first post-refurbishing failure during my watch. Must mean that I got the car back to normal Lotus status

There are several older, long discussions here and elsewhere about alternator repairs and replacements, so I don't want to open that can back up, but, assuming I'm going to first try find replacement parts, I'm hoping someone has had more recent experience sourcing such parts. In the threads, it's mentioned that several US Delco alternators have similar internals and that parts are available - even if the contacts need to be modified.

If anyone can verify this and/or recall which parts can be adapted, I'd appreciate an update. 

Note, I understand that it would be a good idea to upgrade to a newer, more powerful swap, but I'd like to try this first.

Thanks in advance,

Ron

[BDA]

I'm somewhat reluctant to reply because I think you're probably referring to my posts on replacing the voltage regulator in the original Delco alternator, but what the hell! 

Many years ago (maybe as many as 20), I got from the local NAPA parts store the correct regulator for the original Delco alternator and I installed it. For some reason, lost in the fog of an aging brain, I felt the need to replace that regulator only to find that they were discontinued. The parts guy showed me another one that was exactly the same except that the posts came out straight from the regulator body (see attached photo). As I remember (watch out!) the part number was similar signifying they were different versions of the same part (I believe it differentiates between the US and the British regulator. Sadly, I no longer have the box the Brit version came in to compare the number). I got a couple of them to have one as a spare (the one in the photo). I bent the posts 90° so they would point to the holes in the back of the alternator and then used some "extenders" - female to male lug - so the original wires would connect and that was all I needed. Everything went back together as expected and I've used that regulator ever since.

The NAPA part# is VR148SB. Before you open up the alternator, you should mark the relationship between the two halves so you can get the clocking correct.

I don't remember how much the regulators cost but I'm pretty sure it makes sense to try this first. You can decide when you get the price.

I hope that helps!

ed: oops! I had forgotten to attach the photo!

[FourLoti]

Thanks so much for that info. Your memory seems in good shape to me!

I just ordered one from NAPA for $23 plus tax and will have it tomorrow. I also getting a new set of brushes.

I'll report back once I get everything together and have it tested. Hopefully, this is all I'll need and can use the savings to replace the barely used, but now fried, battery

Regards,

Ron

[BDA]

If you need a new battery, I'm having good luck with this one (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PLNZQBQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). You'll also need a motorcycle terminal kit. Get one (from either Amazon or fleabay with different length screws because that could be handy. Plastic covers are also available.

[FourLoti]

Still waiting on the new VR, but I took my old one out and, look at those terminals!

So this is not the first time, which I guess makes sense for 50 years. FWIW, I can't find much info on that part number. Wonder if the split case is from bending the lugs, or part of the failure mode.

Fingers crossed this was the only issue.

Ron
Oh - and thanks for the battery suggestion!

[BDA]

I’d suspect the DPO bent the posts and soldered extensions on to do the same thing that my extensions do. Unless he used way too much heat, I don’t think the soldering is the cause of your problem.

I looked for another extension so I could provide a picture for you but it seems I only have two and they are both in my alternator. I may have gotten them at Radio Shack but if you don’t have one of those around (are they online?) try an electric supply house or even Lowe’s or Home Depot. Or you could solder extensions like the DPO did! 

[FourLoti]

Thanks again. I have one of these on hand and am going to get another at AutoZone. Pretty sure that cutting the top part off and straightening the bottom will work. But, soldering may also be a good way to go.

Ron

[BDA]

I looked all over fleabay and Amazon and couldn't find what I have. I found a lot of female to two males but no single female to male. I also found lots of adapters similar to what you have - in fact, I have several just like it. What you have should work after you modify it. The lugs are bigger than the more usual 1/4" so make sure you have the right size.

If all else fails, you can make up a short wire of the same gauge with a female and male spade connector.

[FourLoti]

Success!  After all that work and parts uncertainty, I was definitely on edge starting it back up. But so relieved to now see the ammeter needle staying rock steady when revving!

Thanks again for the help and info.

BTW, modifying the clips from Advance Auto (not AutoZone as I thought) worked very well. I added some heat shrink tubing to be extra safe, even though the female socket on the wiring harness keeps the lugs centered. Photos added in case it helps others in the future.

Ron

[BDA]

Excellent! Glad everything worked out for you!