S1 Door Hinge Saga

[dakazman]

   I've been watching this thread, Turbo points to an excellent article. If your going to fit your doors do them without the glass or motors installed. set up a grid section on the inside of the door so you can visually approximate the direction you want to move the door. A simple X-Y axis, with a +- is all that is needed to keep you from moving the correct pivot point.
 Dakazman
 

[SilverBeast]

   I've been watching this thread, Turbo points to an excellent article. If your going to fit your doors do them without the glass or motors UN-installed. set up a grid section on the inside of the door so you can visually approximate the direction you want to move the door. A simple X-Y axis, withh a +- is all that is needed to keep you from moving the correct pivot point.
 Dakazman

Apologies D'man, do you mean without the glass and motors fitted, or with the glass and motors fitted? I'm not sure if your double negative was intentional.

[dakazman]

   Fixed it Silver. Thanks
Dman

[RonPNW]

I have a lathe so .........
Drivers side bushings were toast but since I was going to make all new parts (I used brass largely because I had some brass on hand) I simply enlarged the hole in the bushing by about 1/16" and made the new parts to fit.
It is easy to drill out the soft bushing material by hand. I made a long drill holder that used the opposite bushing hole to align the drill while drilling the other bushing. Even if you use a sleeve or nylon insert you will need to drill the bushing to fit those items.

But that is not all. I found that the door and body bushings were not flat. If they are not flat and square to the pivot they will always shift as you move the door. I needed to sand both the door and body to square up the bushings that were dished. There seems to be plenty of extra fiberglass to allow a little sanding to square up that surface.

Drilling the bush seems easier than trying to replace the bushing considering the careful alignment needed to get that right.

Ron

[Hachille]

I used igubal ball joints. The door no longer has a through axle. This requires having an opening to place and hold the screw.
After 8 years of use I have never needed to adjust. And it's very economical.

[My S1]

Great ideas gentlemen!  I can see that there are allot of ways to skin this cat.  Food for thought...thank you all.

[Richard48Y]

Is there a portion of the igubal ball joints that is offset for alignment purposes?

[Hachille]

Is there a portion of the igubal ball joints that is offset for alignment purposes?

Yes. you have to unscrew the bolts. And push the orange or green sides. Up and down if necessary. Then screw again.
Thank you Google Translate. I hope this is understandable

Be careful, you have to be empty or there are red arrows. And let the fit be slippery

[Richard48Y]

Source?
Tried looking them up and did not find any resembling what you posted.

[Hachille]

https://www.igus.fr/search?q=KGLM-12

KGLM-12
You need these tools to make the holes.

[Richard48Y]

At only about $20.00 a set and probably nearly as much for shipping a single set they are certainly cheap enough to experiment with.
I should probably buy enough for all three sets of doors I need to do in order to save on shipping.

[My S1]

Not sure if I chose the easier solution by re-sleeving the bobbins rather than replacing them but I do believe it is a sound solution none the less.  The precise boring of the bobbins was tricky but re-alignment was a breeze with polyurethane blocks. My ss hinges, which I believe were sourced from R.D. by the P.O.,  measured out at .496" O.D. so I made the ss sleeves with an I.D. of .504".  I would not recommend going any larger than .008" of clearance.  They are now very snug.  I am concerned a bit about ss rotating against ss but I have a German lead base lubricant from an old set of BMW CV joints that should do the job if I am diligent about lubricating them.

[GavinT]

That looks pretty neat to me.
Are the sleeves retained in any way? - pressed, glued or both?

[Fotog]

You have those two holes aligned with each other.  How do you get the holes in the door similarly aligned, but also in the correct position so that the door is where you you want it relative to the body?

[My S1]

GavinT;  laminating epoxy with carbon fiber cloth and ground fibers top and bottom.  About 3/4" of the sleeves protrude past the old bobbins.

Fotog,  I found that the bobbins on the body and doors are precisely jigged up at the factory (imagine that!) however as RonPMW so correctly pointed out, there is excessive fiberglass around the perimeters that tossed a wrench in the alignment works.  The faces of the jambs and doors about the bobbins need to be flushed out.

Incidentally, I bought some sweet ss hairpin cotter pins from McMaster-Carr.  I had to buy a pack of 10 for $20 so if anyone would like a set I would be happy to mail them to you.

Also through McMaster-Carr I got some 2" O.D. pvc washers that are very useful for shimming the doors up and down.  We'll see how they hold up with usage.