Resurrecting a 1970 Europa S in Atlantic Canada

[Bullnose]

Thanks to all the sharp eyes.
You are right that there are different styles of mount on opposite sides of the car. I tried a new one just in case there was a problem with the old one - but I never thought that they would be dimensionally different.
I bought a new matched pair of mounts that were supposed to be for the Renault engine.
You have identified them as being for an TC.
The ones that came with the car are probably the correct ones - they look in reasonable condition but I agree with the remark about 50 year old rubber...
Regarding the upside down point raised - I assumed that the mounts should be put in with the metal "saddle" downwards to catch the "blade" in case of total failure of the rubber bits. I am inventing words here but ....
Many thanks - I 'll report when I get back to the garage again - end of October here in Nova Scotia means doing all the chores required for the cold weather. Remove the screens, put the storm windows up, replace the lawn mower with the snow blower  etc.etc.
Grant

[dakazman]

  I took this picture of the left side mount as installed for a level motor. I’m only saying it’s the mounts for the s2 with an 807 or 821 , it will probably work for a 843 also. This is my only car with parts I received earlier in its life.

Dakazman

[Bullnose]

Put a TC mount on both sides and the engine is relatively level. Can fine tune by the use of spacers between the engine block and the steel mount. This was used on the engine as I received it so some historical precedent.
will look for genuine Renault rubber mounts but for the first assembly the TC mount will do - they are new.
Thanks again for the help.
More Q's will follow.
Grant

[dakazman]

  Grant ,
 It looks fine to me now. I don't know the differences in TC, S2, Wedge and Crossflow but learning. 
  What is the next step for you?
  Dakazman

[Bullnose]

Good question regarding what is next. My big plan given the approaching cold weather is to get a solution worked out for the exhaust plumbing. This will involve making cutouts in the top of the frame and possibly the bottom. If I can solve this puzzle, I will then take the engine apart over the winter in my basement and do whatever is necessary to strengthen the frame where the cut outs are made.
The first photo shows a historic photo taken from this website showing the installation with the factory cast iron manifold - which looks quite well designed  for a reasonable level of performance but not the fire breathing level that many cars have now. Unfortunately, there are no photos that I could find that showed the installation from underneath.
The next photo show a typical bunch of snakes fabricated manifold which is a nice but noisy and expensive solution.
The last photo shows where I am now with the cut out in the top flange. The factory down pipe is not a possible installation without some trimming of the lower flange as far as I can see.
So, in the next few days , weather permitting, I will lift the engine out, install the factory pipe and get a better idea of where it runs, . More photos to follow!
Thanks in advance for any suggestions
Grant

[GavinT]

When I initially changed to a crossflow engine, I used the cast iron manifold that came with the R-16 engine I purchased.
That manifold had a single outlet as distinct from the dual outlet (as per your pics) and was able to modify the stock single down pipe suitably, though not beautifully.

I wasn't prepared to compromise the chassis with a cut-out because this was a short term solution prior to fabricating a tubular arrangement. A bunch of snakes is cheap to make but quite time consuming.