Starting to prepare for pulling lump

[Bryan Boyle]

As much as I want to keep driving the buggy...time to start planning to pull the lump.  Already have a shop lined up to refresh the 365 with new bearings, synchros, and seals...and the 1 ton crane and engine stand are in boxes in the yard shed in the backyard ready to be built...have assembled the upper and lower gasket sets (going to do the pan again, this time NOT flat on my back) and input cam seal...head gasket, timing chest gasket, clutch, pressure plate, throwout, thermostat, coolant hoses...may spring for stainless transfer tubes....new ARP head bolts, assembly lube (I'm going to pull the inlet cam to pull off the old seal and replace, so will have to reassemble, new nyloc bolts, selocs, etc...and backing the car into the garage so I can work at the back where my bench and tool chest is.

So, forgive my ignorance (about the TC arrangement...Renault milled Europas I've pulled more than my share...) with a couple (I'm sure there will be more) questions:

1. Is there a block coolant drain plug?  I see what looks like one to the rear of the left engine mount.  I'd like to drain as much antifreeze as possible before attempting to pull the lump, just to have a bit less weight.  Otherwise...it's undo the front close plate, pull the lower hose (and have a big 5 gal pan under it to catch the flow...been there, done that.  Drop the oil  (I've two cases of Brad Penn 20w50 racing oil in stock...to replace it with)...lots of rags available.

2. In the R16 world, you NEVER EVER use the manifold as a lifting point.  I'm assuming that the TC is the same (I'd just put beefy nylon straps under the pan and the tranny to the leveling bar on the crane and lift that way...or remove the 365 first, then go in for the lump.)

3. Assuming that stripping the engine of most of the hang-ons (exhaust, carbs, starter, dizzy) is a given.

4. Any gotchas besides making sure all interconnections (coolant, fuel, electrical, etc) are detached and out of the way?

Just thought I'd throw this out there.  Like to have a plan in place in my mind before tackling a job like this.  One of many positive things to come out of this: I can really get in there and clean the engine room, get the engine tight (last compression check showed 145-160 readings across the 4 jugs), and if not have a showpiece when I'm done...at least a clean and tidy engine.

Thoughts?  Obligatory engine photo for reference.

[BDA]

Questions:

1. Not sure about that. I have a very similar block and don't remember a drain but that means nothing.

2. On a TC, the intake manifold is cast into the head so you can pull from there. You can pull from the T-stat piece off the head too.

3. You will almost have to take the headers off first. You might want to take the carbs off just to make sure they are not damaged during the lift and subsequent mount on your stand but I would consider that optional. You aren't getting the dizzy out without taking the carbs off. I consider that optional too. The starter and alternator will come off when you disconnect the tranny from the engine. Mechanical fuel pump, if you have one, is optional to take off too.

I would definitely get a set of SS transfer tubes. I would also lose the catch tank. How old are your fuel tanks? Aluminum tanks are nice.

[4129R]

I put 2 chains from exhaust studs cross over to inlet manifold.

If you pull the bottom hose off the rad, the water will leak into the front and you can catch it in a washing up bowl underneath.

Make sure you can get the crane out easily when the engine is hanging. It is much harder to pull out when heavy.

[69merc]

I only installed (engine was out and in pieces when I bought it).  I used harbor freight straps.

[Bryan Boyle]

I only installed (engine was out and in pieces when I bought it).  I used harbor freight straps.

Yeah!  That's what I'm thinking.  (and, oh, removing the boot lid so it's out of the way...I need to tighten the driver side body-side mount of the hinge anyway...have 2 new ones stashed away; may just replace them.)

[Bread Van 74092397P]

Hi Bryan,
There is a drain plug on the Ford block, it's a bolt on the exhaust side of the engine, close to where the transmission is connected. Regarding pulling the engine & transmission, the rear chassis has to be raised on stands, to allow the chassis cross member, lower links and drive shafts to be disconnected, but you are probably aware of this already. Let us know how it goes, as I have to do something similar to my Europa.     

[Bryan Boyle]

Hi Bryan,
There is a drain plug on the Ford block, it's a bolt on the exhaust side of the engine, close to where the transmission is connected. Regarding pulling the engine & transmission, the rear chassis has to be raised on stands, to allow the chassis cross member, lower links and drive shafts to be disconnected, but you are probably aware of this already. Let us know how it goes, as I have to do something similar to my Europa.     

Yeah, it looks pretty much the same as the R16-engined versions accounting for the differences in mounts, coolant, shift, etc.  Not looking forward to it, but, have some extra hands lined up to help when it's time to actually yank the thing out and get it on the stands.

[Fotog]

You aren't getting the dizzy out without taking the carbs off.

Just FYI,... that's not so.  I pull mine out from beneath the Strombergs to set the points gap. No prob!
-Vince

[Bryan Boyle]

Well...Yet Another Box(tm) of goodies arrived: cam seal, head gasket, timing case seal, lower pan seal set, valve cover gasket, ARP head bolts, output seal and gasket. 

Already have the spirol pins for the inner yokes, new clutch, cover, throwout, right side engine mount (thinking may be worthwhile to replace the chassis end of the engine mount arrangement; replaced the left side in situ when the original one fractured); the tranny mounts were replace a couple years ago...so will leave them be for now.  Picking up the engine hoist and stand tomorrow or saturday (have to borrow a van...they won't fit in my Jetta...even with the seat down...

Noted that the lower track rod outer bushings were starting to shred.  IIRC these are, versus the S1/S2 arrangement, press-in bushings.  Ick.  I'm avoiding buying a floor press...have a Big Bench Vise, which I'm thinking may work?  Otherwise, will either take them up to the shop up the street and ask him to do the press work...or just buy replacement adjustable lower links.  Still noodling this one over...

Guess once the weather really turns, it will be keeping me busy after work.  Still have the front suspension to tackle, but thinking when I'm bored with stripping the engine apart...do something useful on another part of the car...

[BDA]

I had a set of lower links made for me when I was planning on building my care closer to stock. I probably would advise getting/making/having made a set (sorry for the tortured syntax!) but there really is no real reason that you need them if nothing is bent.

If you have a big vice, I would think you'd be able to push those bushings in and out yourself. If not, you can take them down the street.