Banks Adjustable Rear Lower Links

[cazman]

Sorry for all the novis questions lately. I received my uprated springs and Adjustable Rear Lower Links from Banks. There were no instructions with the lower link kit. It is pretty straight forward except that there is a pretty good space between the inner rod end and the trans bracket. They did not supply any spacers, which is what seems to be called for, but where? Both sides equally or one in back and one in front? Seems like the wrong spacer in the wrong place would add stress.

So, does anyone have the Banks Adjustable Rear Lower Links?

[BDA]

I think they expect you to fill that space with washers. Like you, I might have expected them to include some washers...

For racing applications (if your rules allow it) the better choice is a good quality spherical rod end.

[cazman]

But where to put the washers?


The rules say no spherical rod ends unless used stock.

[BDA]

Hardware store? Why didn’t they include some? Don’t know.

[cazman]

I mean, the arm is bent not straight. So, Banks did some engineering. Putting washers to the rear of the rod end will move that end 1/2" forward. Putting washers to the front will do the opposite. I would rather not guess.

[BDA]

After all this time I finally took a look at them! Sorry I didn’t do that earlier! I had assumed the ends had left and right hand threads but I see only one side is adjustable.

I would put the end that is not adjustable in the tranny mounts and align them for the best fit to the upright. You should have at least one washer between the “fake rod end” and the upright casting. Then I would add washers so that any misalignment at the the ends is minimized and the least number of washers are used at the upright end. So for example if you have one washer between the upright and the rod end and the inner end ends up against the rear of the mount on the tranny (since the link is on the front of the upright, this represents the greatest misalignment) I would put washers to fill in the gap in front of the inner end. I would not try to center the inner end in the mount and add washers to fill any gap between the rod end and the upright (beyond the one that must be there.

I hope this makes sense. If not, let me know. Writing this reminded me of writing a theme in high school to describe how to tie a shoe! I think when you start putting pieces up to your car, it will probably make sense.

[Grumblebuns]

It really is hard to see any detail with your picture size. Also, any idea why the Banks lower links are bent? Are they all like that?

[BDA]

Since he's not using spherical rod ends, I think the arms have to be bent to take care of the misalignment between the inner and outer pivots. IIRC, the bushings on the original arms had the bushing tubes welded at an angle to the arm.

[cazman]

Since he's not using spherical rod ends, I think the arms have to be bent to take care of the misalignment between the inner and outer pivots. IIRC, the bushings on the original arms had the bushing tubes welded at an angle to the arm.

Yes, that right. They have to be bent to align correctly. That is my concern. The rod end is about 1" wide and the bracket space on the transaxle is about 1 1/2" wide. I messed with it this morning and I just do not see great alignment any way I shim it. I need Banks instructions or a picture of someone else that did this. I think I am going to send them back.

[jbcollier]

“ I just do not see great alignment…”

Can you explain further?  Or, better yet, post pictures showing the issues?

Richard knows his stuff and doesn’t sell junk.

[BDA]

I second what JB says. I have lots of stuff from Richard on my car. He does very nice work.

In the first picture, it appears that the inner end of the link is in the tranny mount. How close is the outer end to the front face of the upright? It's hard to tell but if the gray thing on the left of the photo is the upright, it looks pretty close. Maybe a more detailed picture of the outer end when the inner end is mounted would be helpful.

Even if the rules don't specify it, I would put a washer with an OD greater than the OD of the rod end outside the rod end. If it should delaminate or fail in some way, the end would be constrained by the washer.

[cazman]

Here are some better pics. In the 1st, you can see the leeway I have within the trans bracket. The inner rod end definitely needs to be pushed towards the front of the car. The 2nd pic shows where the outer end "lays" naturally. At full droop it wants be where the shock is. At full bump it is still under the upright, not in front of it. That is what I mean by misaligned. I can force it to mount in front of the upright, but I would think that this should be a "drop-in" part.

[jbcollier]

It looks to me that you have been sent lower links for an S1/2, not a TC/S.

[cazman]

So, I have heard back from Richard at Banks. He says that the parts are right, but each car has its own differences. He recommends to use them, so I will.  I am interested to see, after the suspension is completely back together and rolling on the ground, what this looks like. The gap in the inner end bracket is supposed to be filled with spacers, so at least I know that now.