This a quick guide on how I removed the roll pin from my Twin Cam Special with a 365 gearbox. I needed to do this to:
(a) replace the oil seal in the gearbox
(b) Get the gear lever far enough back in the tunnel to replace the non-existent nylon bushes at the base of the gear lever with a nice shiny new pair of brass ones via the access hole under the arm rest! (the last picture shows these fitted). TIP: Use a tie wrap round the front gear linkage shaft in the tunnel, and a spanner/rod outside it to hold the shaft at the top of the tunnel while you change the bushes. I also took the opportunity to remove and lubricate the gear lever assembly while I was at it.
There is very little access to the top of the roll pin even with the gear selector shaft pulled all the way backwards, due to the Gearbox mounting hoop proximity. My roll pin was fitted from below and I didn't wish to have to use a hammer to beat it out anyway and risk (however unlikley) distorting the shaft an/or cracking the housing. I decided on the following method instead. Refer to the pictures as it is probably a lot clearer than the description anyway !
I used the middle sized rod from a Sealey Door Hinge Pin Extractor Kit(first picture), an M10 threaded insert spacer, that I filed to allow it to sit flat on the Gear Selector Linkage fitting (around the Roll Pin), some washers, an M10x1 Brake Pipe Male fitting for 3/16" pipe and an M10 x 1 Brake Pipe Female fitting (Picture 2). ebay is your friend...
These were assembled as follows onto the hinge pin extractor shaft:
(i) Small washer
(ii) Brake Pipe fittings Female first with the male screwed fully home onto it
(iii) Small washer(2) - as many as required to take up the slack in the fitted assembly.
(iv) large washer
(v) M10 threaded insert spacer (though a suitable tube would do as long as it is a larger hole diameter than the expanded roll pin)
(vi) pin is then threaded through the roll pin from below
(v) The knurled "nut" from the hinge pin extractor set is then fitted to the thread on the pin. This is smaller than the hole the roll pin is fitted to, but bigger than the roll pin inner diameter, so it can be pulled out with the roll pin.
Picture 3 shows the assembly with the extracted roll pin.
Picture 4 and 5 fitted to the installed roll pin.
Spanners are then used to "expand" the brake fitting joints and extract the pin - it won't all go in one go, you'll need to "close" the brake fittings and use open ended spanners between the washers (Picture 5) and expand again, until it falls out, is far enough out and/or loose enough to use the lever from the Sealey kit and a hammer because you lost patience!!
This worked surprisingly well, with very little effort (both times as unsurprisingly you can't get the lever back through the hole in the tunnel after you've fitted it
)
To refit, I re-used the same roll pin. I installed it, with washer first onto the Sealey Pin (you can fit the knurled nut too which helps keep it all on the shaft in case you drop it!) and used the Sealey pin to align it in the hole/shafts, then taps from a hammer to drive it home from below. I intend to safety wire it too, just in case.
Hope this helps.
EDIT: I really need to determine the best resolution for the Photos so they aren't too big!
