I've got a couple of brake bleeding tips. A steady stream of bubbles at all four corners strongly suggests air is being sucked in at the bleed screw threads. This can be dealt with by opening the bleed screw only on the downstroke, and closing it before the pedal is lifted. This is a pain, and requires coordination between the wheel man and the pedal man. A better way is to seal the bleed screw threads with E-Z Turn as suggested, which makes bleeding a one-man operation. If your car is a Federal model, it's probably got the "brake fail warning light valve". I've heard these can cause difficulty while bleeding, and the suggestion is to simultaneously bleed a front wheel and a rear wheel at the same time, so the plunger in the valve won't move to cut off flow to the wheel being bled.
