Author Topic: Ducted/vented hoods, any DIY?  (Read 1726 times)

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Offline BDA

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Re: Ducted/vented hoods, any DIY?
« Reply #15 on: Thursday,April 29, 2021, 10:15:10 AM »
Thanks, JB. I knew there was a possibility or likelihood that my upright could be slightly bent (I've measured my lower A-arms and I have Banks adjustable upper A-arms). It's not off all that much so I'll be looking for a cheap replacement.

Offline Clifton

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Re: Ducted/vented hoods, any DIY?
« Reply #16 on: Friday,April 30, 2021, 09:25:25 AM »

I'm curious how you got more caster. I have one side that does not have enough and I haven't been able to make much of a difference by adding washers (I almost positive I added them behind the lower shock mount - between the A-arm and shock - and behind the lower A-arm at the pivot - between the frame and A-arm - but sadly, I'm too lazy to check that right now! Sorry.)

I'm surprised you suggest less front toe in for stability. Within reason or specs, I've always thought that stability was enhanced with greater toe in. Can you help explain?

Toe in does give stability but you only need so much. I have always run 1/16-1/8" in total on the front of every car I've ever had but they are front engine cars. Elises have the same roll center and nearly the same weight, S1's are 1550 lbs, S2's closer to 2000 lbs. They are modern great handling cars so I figured I would try what they run only for toe.   Tacoma's run toe "out" but also a little positive camber. I just aligned one and was shocked. Here's a few link on Elise specs. I'm running what Sector111 posted, same as an S2 Exige setting.

http://sector111.blogspot.com/2014/12/tech-tip-suspension-setup.html

https://wiki.seloc.org/a/Geo_Setups

Offline Clifton

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Re: Ducted/vented hoods, any DIY?
« Reply #17 on: Friday,April 30, 2021, 09:45:28 AM »
A  rod end would be ideal but Canley's are $$$. JB's right on the trunnion not allowing movement. You can get some though. I pressed the forward upper and lower control arm bushings back to get the arm forward and used 12mm washers to shim the shaft. These washers fit better than 1/2" washers.  The nut, non locking barely covers the threads. I made some 1/8" aluminum spacers for the upper ball joint and for adjustment front to back. I spaced the trunnion forward with a spacer and washers for shim. I pulled the upright top back, hard, while tightening everything.

Offline RonPNW

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Re: Ducted/vented hoods, any DIY?
« Reply #18 on: Friday,April 30, 2021, 04:54:03 PM »
I have a 70's style spoiler that I'll install during the body repair and repaint (my current plan is to extend the spoiler a little further to make mini canards in front of the wheels, still staying inside the stock wheel outer edge). The spoiler seems like the easiest way to better highway stability while keeping he car semi-stock. The duct is a fairly dramatic change to the look that (IMHO) seems a little out of place.

I've always run small amounts of front and rear toe-in that seemed a good compromise for auto crossing and daily driving.
Second restoration of a 1970 S2, now with a Spyder chassis, 807-13 crossflow engine and some modern upgrades. This car is just for fun!

Offline Clifton

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Re: Ducted/vented hoods, any DIY?
« Reply #19 on: Saturday,May 01, 2021, 07:31:54 AM »
 :beerchug:
I have a 70's style spoiler that I'll install during the body repair and repaint (my current plan is to extend the spoiler a little further to make mini canards in front of the wheels, still staying inside the stock wheel outer edge). The spoiler seems like the easiest way to better highway stability while keeping he car semi-stock. The duct is a fairly dramatic change to the look that (IMHO) seems a little out of place.

I've always run small amounts of front and rear toe-in that seemed a good compromise for auto crossing and daily driving.


What's a small amount? I don't want to come across as rude but that doesn't seem like it's working. If  Lotus are stable at speed without a spoiler and yours isn't stable, it's not because you don't have a spoiler. The only thing left effecting your stability is tire pressure or alignment and I don't think it's tire pressure.

Offline GavinT

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Re: Ducted/vented hoods, any DIY?
« Reply #20 on: Saturday,May 01, 2021, 04:15:13 PM »
Dunno what a mall amount might be but after 50 years with all sorts of minor differences, different tyres etc. between different model Europas in the interim, it might not transfer easily between one car and the next because the Europa is generally also fairly sensitive.

Frankly, beyond the 47's and the small number of race prepared cars out there, I reckon there hasn't been all that much exploration of the development potential.
As was noted, when the TC/TCS came out, many S2 drivers discovered better high speed stability with the TC front splitter. I put one on and found the same thing.

Later on I discovered the rear springs had started sagging by about 1-1/2". I took advantage of the opportunity and had some 2" spacers machined up to try out. It turned out the slightly higher stance at the rear seemed to enhance the handling overall. Bear in mind this is a Type 54, so it's more in line with stock 46 height anyway. That then got me to wondering if the TC splitter could be deleted for no loss in stability and a regain of the extra drag.

I've only tried a few things within the non adjustable nature of the car but high tyre pressure seems to make it 'tippy' everywhere. I've tried front toe-out and it definitely improves sharp corner turn in on the track without much affecting anything else. On the drive home, however, it's noticeably a bit darty, so not everything transfers as we might expect. Probably best bang for the buck on the track was fixing the bump steer.

I still think we aren't taking much advantage of the entirely better modern tyres and probably can't without going all the way with stiffer springs, roll bars and everything else to get the car handling flat as a tack.

I dunno. My Honda Civic daily runs very firm & flat with 215/45 -17 tyres.
I often wonder how much grip you could get out of a Europa running something similar.

In sedate suburban driving, most wouldn't know the Civic is front wheel drive.
Of course, there was that time in the rain cruising on the freeway at 110KPH when we came across a sheet of water running across the road. The half worn tyres aquaplaned, the car was under cruise control and the front moved sideways. That was interesting.
« Last Edit: Saturday,May 01, 2021, 04:53:09 PM by GavinT »

Offline RonPNW

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Re: Ducted/vented hoods, any DIY?
« Reply #21 on: Saturday,May 01, 2021, 09:53:37 PM »
I looked and could not find my old set up data. My feeble recollection is something around -1/16 up front and 0 to -1/16 in back. I have an early / canadian 1970 S2 which is visibly lower, up front, compared to the typical US Europa. I also run 205/60 13 tires with a 3/4" front sway bar. There are a ton of variables that affect the feel of the car (stability) and one persons stable my be another's out of control. I'm happy with the low speed performance and is sounds like adding a spoiler is the easiest way to help higher speed performance.
I never said the car was unstable at speed, just not as planted /  go cart like as it is at autocrossing speeds. (Rarely over 50 for my skill set).
I appreciate all the feedback. My takeaway is that a simple spoiler is all that would be needed to get a more planted feel at freeway speeds assuming all the other issues are up to snuff. So, major duct work in out, adding a spoiler is in.
Thanx
Second restoration of a 1970 S2, now with a Spyder chassis, 807-13 crossflow engine and some modern upgrades. This car is just for fun!

Offline EuropaTC

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Re: Ducted/vented hoods, any DIY?
« Reply #22 on: Saturday,May 01, 2021, 10:59:22 PM »
My takeaway is that a simple spoiler is all that would be needed to get a more planted feel at freeway speeds assuming all the other issues are up to snuff. So, major duct work in out, adding a spoiler is in.

Personally I'd say that's a well proven path, and if you add it in the same manner as the TC (bolt on) then it's going to be very easy for you to do a back-to-back comparison  of the difference it makes.

I'm not sure about transferring geometry data from other cars, there's so much else going on.  Like a few others on this forum I've also got an Elise (S1) and I know the geo is different from what I have on the Europa, but so are the tyres, spring rates, camber changes and weight distribution. (Europa S1/2 50/50 (?), TC 45/55, Elise 38/62). Also bear in mind that Lotus considered original S1 shape wasn't stable at speed and that's why there's a rear spoiler moulded into the bodywork, whereas they put one at the front on the TC.

I think it was Tim Engel who posted about using toe-out at the front because he preferred the turn-in and general drive, but we've got to remember that a car manufacturer has to make their cars feel stable for a large market with differing driving abilities and preferences. So a quick steering response could make Joe or Joan Average think the car's not safe and hit sales.  So the safe options will be in the official manual and I'd expect that's why they have the given front toe & what most would consider excessive rear toe on the TC cars.

Brian