Camber front TCS

[literarymadness]

I don't run 38 psi. That 38 psi number is meant for a much heavier car. I run 18 psi in the front and 24 psi in the back. My front camber of -1 is only a 1/2 degree or 30 minutes more aggressive the Factory the factory range (far from radical).  Tire technology has come a long way in the last 50 years. The factory spec was based on a 155/70R13 or a 175/70R13 front tire. A softer rubber compound tends to work better with a more negative camber. If I was running OEM tire sizes then absolutely I would go with the Lotus factory recommendation.

[GavinT]

I didn't actually think you'd be running 38 PSI, Literary.
The fuller context of their set-up advice sheet makes more sense.

How do you like the -1° on the front?
I haven't tried it due to the non-adjustable nature of the stock arms but always thought slotting the uppers was easy enough for a trial.

But I reckon you're right about modern rubber. Toyo even says their R888R has a stiff construction which is some distance from our standard Lotus spec.

Kinda makes one think we should make the Europa stiffer all around to take advantage of better tyres which are also invariably flatter as you go wider.
With apologies for the topic drift.

[BDA]

Speaking of slotting the A-arms, I saw where one guy slotted his and made plates that fit inside the arm that have holes in a position for different cambers. I don’t think I described that very well but hopefully it makes sense. If not, let me know and I’ll try again and maybe I can find the write-up and provide a link.

[jbcollier]

What did with men was slot them and use a large washer.  Made the adjustments and then tack welded the washer in place.

[GavinT]

Looks like there are retail kits available.
Don't know how readily adaptable they might be for our arms - two holes needed to alter the top ones.

https://cmwraceparts.com/proddisp.php?pn=JRP15050

[literarymadness]

@GavinT: Before I made the switch to Adjustable Uppers, the camber on the front wheels of my TCS were asymmetrical, Zero degree on one wheel and -30' on the other.  So of course just being able to make the front symmetrical would have been an improvement alone, but set at -1 degrees, the front end now feels more stable especially at 80+ mph speeds.

[TurboFource]

From the Jensen manual......

"With the lowered suspension settings, it is necessary to decrease the negative camber of
the front wheels. This was achieved by moving the lower suspension arms outer pivot point
inwards. This was carried out by slotting the existing holes in the arms and installing drilled
plates to locate pivot in desired position (0.158 in. per l° of camber change). The plates fitting
securely in channel of lower suspension arms."

Gives a good idea how far you need to move things to change camber.