Luggage box spacer cushions

[4129R]

Use a hacksaw to get it into a rough shape and then finish on a bench grinder.

The rotary wire brush on a bench grinder is a very good way of removing rubber carefully.

[LotusJoe]

https://www.mcmaster.com/9540K805/

I think this what your looking for. There many sizes to choose from.

[BobW]

There is the usual range of variation over the Europa's production cycle. My S2 has no through-bolts and no rubber spacer. I've had the car from new and am prepared to say that's how it was delivered. That said, the gap between the bottom of the luggage tray and the crosspiece is about 5 mm and I can see how a spacer would be comforting. It's not necessary though.

[Nisswa Collision]

OK, I haven't got them in my hands yet but the issue has been resolved. The correct name for what I was looking for is a "Rubber standoff".  I saw the ones Mcmaster has and not exactly the right size, but the closest I could find, however they were stupid expensive. I'm not going to pay $45-$85 for a single rubber donut. I found many the right shape but wrong size, I couldn't find anything correct id and od taller than 1/2". I ended up having to buy 3 and expect to have to bond them together and slice one in half to get my 1 1/4" thickness. The one in the photo above is 1" tall, 2" od and 1/2" id. However it is under the heat shield and the other side won't be. By-the-way, that is indeed real asbestos under that steel plate. It's best to leave it alone. No real substitute for asbestos has ever been found. I used Rust-Mort on the steel where it had some corrosion. It doesn't do anything for the looks but does stop the rust that's there.

[Lotuswins]

I had to custom fit rubber to mine as it didn't come with anything.  I used some old 1955 chevy 265 rubber motor mounts (round, hole thru center, about 1 inch thick).   I stacked two on each side to make up the distance, which it appears will vary considerably.

The heat shield is another anomaly, it is steel with asbestos.   I removed mine (heavy) and simply put a replacement aluminum sheet of the same dimensions on standoffs using rivets.  Several checks on heat issues revealed no appreciable heat rise in the fiberglass. 

HTH

Jerry Rude
4005R

[Pfreen]

The bumpers I used are from Mcmaster.  They cost $6.47 each.  They are 2" in diamer and 3/4" thick.  They have a  3/8"-16 thread to attach a bolt and locknut to.

https://www.mcmaster.com/93115K271

I attached a photo for reference.

[Nisswa Collision]

Those Pfreen has used are great if you remove the bin a lot. You had to drill out the factory 1/4"-20 threads to make their bolt work so that's kinda bogus, but somebody mentioned putting foam cushion down the sides to support the box. I won't be doing that with my car but a combination of the weatherstrip and bumpers make the luggage bin a grab-n-go item. Cool if you are always fooling with the engine. You could even leave all your junk in it and pick it all out at once. I got mine done. I bonded 3 half inch thick rubber standoffs together using 3m super weatherstrip adhesive (gorrilla snot) in a big vice with steel plates to hold them square. The next morning I turned it 90 degrees in the vice and used a hack saw to saw it to my 1 1/4". I had to saw in an eighth inch and then rotate it, sawing a line all the way around prior to sawing thru. I squared it up on the bench grinder and then bonded the ugly side to the bottom of the bin with the black snot. I notice mystery holes in my bin. 2 three-eighths inch holes in a vertical pattern on the front and 2 quarter inch holes in a horizontal pattern on the right side. I suspect the latter was a small fire extinguisher but any ideas what else? Speaking of fire, I have a few air-cooled VW vehicles and have them fitted with Blazecut hoses. I think I'm going to give the Europa one too. Just have to figure out how to mount it. The shortest one they make is big enough for a Europa.   

[jbcollier]

I find I remove the rear luggage bin a lot!  Mine is secured with quick release fasteners.