Rear suspension advice/critique

[Sherman Kaplan]

I have the engine/gearbox installed in the frame and I'm now putting together the rear suspension.  I've mocked up one side (have not installed/shimmed the half-shafts yet) and want to get some advise on how things look.   I purchased new adjustable lower links from RD, as one of my originals was bent.   The lower links come with a set of 8 spacers, but no instructions.   On the end that goes into the gearbox I used 3 of the spacers and on the end that attaches to the bearing carrier I used one spacer.   I also used washers on the other side of the bearing carrier, between the bearing carrier and the shock, to keep the shock  vertical.   It does look like the lower link is at an angle from the bearing carrier to the gearbox.   It seems that the heim joints on the lower link take care of this and in looking at the original lower link it also looks like this is the way it is. Unfortunately, when I received the car the engine/gearbox was out and the rear suspension was disassembled so I didn't have a guide to reassembly.   Any and all suggestions appreciated.

Thanks,
Sherman

[BDA]

It appears you are missing the steel piece that bolts on the tranny and puts the bolts through the rod ends in double shear. Check out #28 or #29 on this page http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/tcparts/d/tcda.pdf. The outer end looks good. The idea is to use spacers or stacks of washers to give you the maximum misalignment of the rod end. Similarly, you want the shock to mount without or with minimal misalignment so stack washers or use spacers to achieve this.

[TurboFource]

It is not clear in your pic as to markings on your bolts, are they grade 8?

[Sherman Kaplan]

BDA, if you look at my picture number 2 you can see the steel piece, part number 28 in the manual.

TurboFource, the bolts are grade 5, also sourced from RD

Thanks
Sherman

[BDA]

My apologies. I see it now. The next picture looked like it might have been on the inside but I see now, it is the connection with the upright.

Some people prefer grade 5 because they bend long before they break. Some like grade 8 because they are stronger but because they are stronger, they are also more brittle and they are more likely to break than grade 5. Either work well. It really is a personal preference.

[EuropaTC]

Hi Sherman,

One thing that struck me was the number of washers/spacers on the bottom mount to the hub carrier. Do you need that many to get a vertical damper ?  Mine is much tighter than that, I've added a photo showing the original and current suspension.  It's not as clear as your photo but from what I recall there's only a couple of large washers between the aluminium carrier and lower damper bush.  Clearance on the U/J is tight but this set-up gives a vertical spring from the side view.

Brian

[JR73]

Pretty sure the 8 x spacers are intended to be fitted 2 per joint with one either side to allow full articulation of each joint, any further slack in the bolt length can be taken up with a different spacer or washers.

It may not look like you need the articulation but with rubber bushes (fitting the standard trailing arm pivot?) and the loads that they see you would be surprised at how much movement they can experience.

Also, from memory, the original lower links have an angle to them, the ends containing the bushes are not square to the tube. From the bell housing i'm sure they point slightly backwards. Looks like the inboard end of your lower link should have a spacer against the bellhousing then the joint, another spacer and whatever you need to take up the slack on the bolt length to the bracket. At the upright end of the lower link you will then have a spacer either side of the joint which gives the angle needed to bolt to the upright. This may also affect the fore/aft position of the upright slightly which will change where the shock locates relative to the upright - hopefully bringing the shock closer to the upright as per Brians previous comment and pics as there is something not quite right if you need that many washers/spacers between the upright and shock?

Reference pic below for spacer fitment of Standard (looks like what you have?) and the High Misalignment types.

*Edit to add the the 3rd pic down is the reason for the above, bolt head with washer and no spacer before the joint will limit articulation of joint.

[jbcollier]

Mr J. R. 73 is correct.  One spacer on either side of the spherical joint to allow for full movement.  The joint pause the two spacers is the same width as the standard fitting.

[Sherman Kaplan]

I've redone the spacers.  On the end that goes into the gearbox I changed the configuration to:  two washers, the spacer, lower link, spacer, two washers.  On the end that goes to the hub I changed to spacer, lower link, spacer.   I was also able to remove some of the washers between the hub carrier and the shock.  Do you think I'm good to go?

Thanks,
Sherman

[BDA]

Looks good to me!

[JR73]

Looks good to me too!