Author Topic: Pressure test on engine rebuild  (Read 1403 times)

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Offline Sandyman

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Pressure test on engine rebuild
« on: Saturday,March 02, 2019, 11:00:35 AM »
Hi Fellow Europafiles. I am starting to reassemble engine (1.5 L) while waiting for new chassis to arrive. The engine has less than 30k miles on it. Compression test shows pressures between 125 and 135 psi. The manual does not supply the factory specs. Does any body know them?

Offline BDA

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Re: Pressure test on engine rebuild
« Reply #1 on: Saturday,March 02, 2019, 11:09:28 AM »
More important than high compression pressures is consistency. Your's don't sound too bad but I'm not familiar with your motor. One thing that I sometimes forget (one of many) is to take your compression test with the throttles wide open.

More valuable than a compression test is a leakdown test. Since your motor has only 30K miles on it, I think I would do a leakdown test and if that comes out good, I don't think I'd rebuild the motor unless there is some other indication like low oil pressure, oil or water leaks that can't be effectively remedied otherwise, or you want a new rebuild because you want it.

Offline Sandyman

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Re: Pressure test on engine rebuild
« Reply #2 on: Saturday,March 02, 2019, 01:07:36 PM »
I did the compression test with the carb off (no air restriction). Is the leak down test the one done with oil lubing the rings? None of the cylinders held the pressure.

Offline BDA

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Re: Pressure test on engine rebuild
« Reply #3 on: Saturday,March 02, 2019, 02:50:46 PM »
A "wet" compression test is another good data point - squirt a little oil in each cylinder and run the compression test. If the values are much higher, it indicates that your rings are worn.

A leak down test is done with a leak down tester and a supply of compressed air. Basically, air supplied at a known pressure is provided to the cylinder via the spark plug hole at TDC (this must be pretty accurately determined or the air pressure will turn the motor) of the compression stroke (both valves are closed). A gauge reads the air pressure in the cylinder. If percentage of the pressure lost in the cylinder (the difference between the known input pressure and the pressure in the cylinder) to the supplied pressure is more than, say, 20% - the lower the better - you might have a problem. You can tell where the air is leaking by listening at the exhaust, intake, the intake and exhaust of the neighboring cylinder, and crank case breather.

A good shop will have a leak down tester or you can get them from Amazon, ebay, or a discount tool place like Harbor Freight for about somewhere in the neighborhood of $50. Joining a local sports car club (MG, Lotus, Triumph, Canadian Automobile Sports Car Club etc.) is a good idea not only for the camaraderie but to have access to people who are more knowledgeable (and with a bigger collection of tools!) than you. Quite often they will have a collection of tools for their members and often a leak down tester is one of them.

Offline Sandyman

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Re: Pressure test on engine rebuild
« Reply #4 on: Monday,March 11, 2019, 04:16:45 AM »
Does anybody out there have the factory compression test numbers?

Offline jbcollier

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Re: Pressure test on engine rebuild
« Reply #5 on: Monday,March 11, 2019, 06:00:15 AM »
Compression test results vary from gauge to gauge and on the technique used.  Your carb is off so I'm assuming the engine is cold.  That too will result in a lower reading.  Comparing the dry to the wet tests (only a small amount of oil) gives an idea of wear.  Compression tests are useful as a quick way to find major problems and to monitor the engine while it is service.

As to factory specs, there are none.  Stock 1470 and 1565 engines have 10.25:1 compression and should give "high" results.  Unfortunately, high compression pistons are hard to come by so many engines are rebuilt with the commonly available 8.6:1 pistons which would give lower results.  Also it was not unusual to swap in engines from R16s which are in a lower state of tune.

With an unknown engine such as yours, I would, at the very minimum, drop the pan and examine the bearings.  I would also remove the head, reset the liner heights with new seals and fit a new head gasket.

Offline Sandyman

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Re: Pressure test on engine rebuild
« Reply #6 on: Tuesday,March 12, 2019, 03:54:37 AM »
Thanks JB. Main and con. rod bearings are good. Original engine has only 29,000 miles on it and was running when I got it in September 2018. I will be doing a Zetec swap in 2-3 years after I source a 5 speed transmission. Upgrading to a Spyder chassis this spring with new suspention and discs all around. Using Twink master brake cylinder for safety.

Offline jbcollier

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Re: Pressure test on engine rebuild
« Reply #7 on: Tuesday,March 12, 2019, 06:08:39 AM »
If it was running when you got it, your crank bearings are good, your compression even, and, you plan on swapping it out soon(-ish), then retorque the head and go for it.

Offline Sandyman

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Re: Pressure test on engine rebuild
« Reply #8 on: Tuesday,March 12, 2019, 11:09:07 AM »
Thanks for your help. I have retorque head and bottom end bolts.