Author Topic: bleeding brakes  (Read 2026 times)

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Offline Gmg31

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bleeding brakes
« on: Tuesday,May 30, 2017, 07:27:17 AM »
every brake component on my S2 has been replaced so when I bled the system last week I foolishly assumed it would all just work.  WRONG.. Ive done each wheel 4 times and still not got a firm pedal. there are no leaks so I'm a bit lost for ideas.  Advice would be welcome please.

Afterthought
How important is the length of the connecting rod from the pedal to the master cylinder?

 

Offline BERNIEHUMBER

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Re: bleeding brakes
« Reply #1 on: Tuesday,May 30, 2017, 08:15:41 AM »
HI:Did you change out the Master Cylinder as I had that same issue.
Where did you get the front caliper replacement or rebuild kits from?
There is a built in frustration factor in this hobby.
Good luck
Bernie

Offline BDA

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Re: bleeding brakes
« Reply #2 on: Tuesday,May 30, 2017, 08:31:09 AM »
Are you not losing fluid from your M/C reservoir and still not getting a pedal? You are using a bleeding method that employs a tube from the bleed screw into a bottle of fluid, right? Are you seeing bubbles in your tube? You aren't opening the bleed screw too much allowing air to get in, are you? If you have boosters, are you losing fluid from your M/C reservoir? Your fluid is probably going into your booster in that case. Are you using silicone fluid - that is notoriously hard to bleed and usually not recommended. It could be that you have a bend in your lines that has trapped air - I've heard of some who have had troubles bleeding TC brakes because of the bends and level of some of the lines. Did you bench bleed your M/C? Finally, are you being too anxious? You may have to run a fair amount of fluid through your brakes before you get the air out.


I wouldn't think the connecting rod to your M/C would be the problem if you are pushing fluid out the bleed nipples and your pedal is in a reasonable position. If it were way too short, your pedal would be near the bulkhead and that's not reasonable.

Offline 4129R

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Re: bleeding brakes
« Reply #3 on: Tuesday,May 30, 2017, 10:54:52 AM »
Do you have drums or discs on the back?

Rear discs have to be bled with the handbrake cables disconnected.

Offline Gmg31

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Re: bleeding brakes
« Reply #4 on: Tuesday,May 30, 2017, 11:26:58 AM »
Thanks all. I don't have boosters. It's rear drums.  Every component is new from Banks.  I'll have another go  at the weekend. Btw I was doing it with the hand brake cable connected why is that a problem please

Offline 4129R

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Re: bleeding brakes
« Reply #5 on: Tuesday,May 30, 2017, 11:52:26 AM »
On rear discs, it affects where the pistons are, and presumably they are in a place with air behind which cannot be bled out with them connected.

Try disconnecting and bleeding the rears. It may be a common problem. Worth trying anyway.

Offline jbcollier

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Re: bleeding brakes
« Reply #6 on: Tuesday,May 30, 2017, 03:35:28 PM »
Ok, dual circuit or single circuit master cylinder?  If dual, OEM or?  If dual, did you bench bleed it first?

Offline EuropaTC

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Re: bleeding brakes
« Reply #7 on: Tuesday,May 30, 2017, 10:40:13 PM »
Thanks all. I don't have boosters. It's rear drums.  Every component is new from Banks.  I'll have another go  at the weekend. Btw I was doing it with the hand brake cable connected why is that a problem please

I wasn't aware the handbrake cable was a problem with drum brakes, it's some time now since I had drums but even so I don't recall removing the cable to bleed the brakes. With a disc set-up it depends on the orientation of the caliper, and on one such as mine I found it better to rotate the caliper during bleeding which means the cable has to come off.

If it's any consolation you're not alone in finding a new system difficult to bleed fully, I (and I'm sure others) have met similar problems in the past.  My current technique is to have a long (18" ?) clear plastic tube off the bleed nipple which rises for a few inches before going down into the catch tin. The thinking was that bubbles rise so to return to the nipple they's have to go against gravity so if you hold the pedal down for a few seconds they have chance to move clear of any fluid that's potentially sucked back. And you have a clear indicator of any air you've flushed out, which is reassuring. 

The other thing I now do is pressurise the master cylinder, only a couple of PSI but enough to push fluid out of it when a nipple is released. I made my own set-up but commercial ones are available. I found this much better for one man operation, you can flush almost the entire reservoir out in one "push", much more fluid than you can release via the master cylinder chamber alone. I have found this good for shifting recalcitrant bubbles !

Finally, something which will probably have you wondering if I'm sane (you won't be alone  ;)  ).  If the problem is that you have excessive travel but can pump the pedal to obtain a better result try pumping the pedal until it's as firm as possible and won't improve. Then hold it down with a piece of wood/whatever wedged between the pedal & steering wheel spoke and leave overnight. When you come back next morning, bleed &  see if the travel on the first press is any better.

There are several theories as to why this can make a difference, ranging from bubbles dissolving under higher pressure (? not sure about that) to simply letting any air collect closer to the piston chamber. My favourite is that new seals may be stiffer & not bedded in thus causing more retraction as the pressure is released. Leaving the system under pressure overnight modifies their rest/neutral position. (however I still bled the brakes the next morning, just in case  :)  )

Brian

Offline Gmg31

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Re: bleeding brakes
« Reply #8 on: Wednesday,May 31, 2017, 03:42:52 AM »
All great advice thanks everyone.  Mine is a single circuit system.  I tried again last night and made little impact.  Im off on holiday for a week and will tackle it again when i get back.

Thanks


Offline buzzer

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Re: bleeding brakes
« Reply #9 on: Wednesday,May 31, 2017, 09:07:01 AM »
Have you replaced the rear brake shoes and how well have you adjusted the rear drums. I would check that out first as if you have not adjusted and centred the rear drum brakes you may well get a long soft pedal. if you are sure you have those set up correctly and you have no leaks. then it's a case of going through the system in detail. I would check the master cylinder first, if its's a NOS the mechanism could be sticking and the return valve not operating correctly.
I presume you are bleeding the brakes with a pressure system or by the mate on pedal pump and release as you are operating the release valves method. the vacuum systems may not pull enough vacuum and may leak around the release valve threads.
Dave,

Other cars. Westfield SEiW. BMW E90 Alpina D3. BMW 325 E30 convertible and Range Rover CSK

Offline jbcollier

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Re: bleeding brakes
« Reply #10 on: Wednesday,May 31, 2017, 09:14:56 AM »
Any master cylinder needs to either be pre-bled or pressure bled before hooking it up to the rest of the system.  This can be done in-situ.  Remove the output line and place your finger over the outlet.  Have someone slowly press down the brake pedal.  Make sure your finger is tight on the outlet when they release.  Continue slowly pumping the pedal until no more air is coming out.  Refit the line and bleed as normal.  On the bench, this is easily done by one person.

The first time you adjust your rear brakes, it must be done with the e-brake cable completely slack or, preferably, disconnected.  This ensures that you have maximum mechanical advantage when using the e-brake.  Adjusting the brakes this way makes a huge improvement in handbrake efficiency.