Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Garage => Topic started by: dakazman on Monday,December 23, 2024, 09:10:49 AM
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Not always The Prince of Darkness fault!
I started a build board for this S1 so I could document ,clean and repair it.
This is what I found while unwrapping it from layers of tape.
Now to identify them with the wiring diagram schematic.
It’s surprisingly much less of a harness.
Dakazman
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Not a surprise. My S1 had a pretty sad harness when I replaced it in 2005. Looks like lots of PO repairs, splices, etc.
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David, you may already have this schematic that Ray Bisordi put together years ago for the S1. If not, here it is.
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S1,Thank You, I do, and I have simplified each circuit Individually..
Now' I'll be able to give the measurements of the individual wire runs, strand and colors, to and from.
I will work off that schematic and add the connectors as needed. It will hopefully stop the twisting of wires at the light assemblies.
Dakazman
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Are you repairing it Dakazman - or duplicating it with new wires?
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Dilkis, dunno, right now just cleaning, labeling and identifying and comparing it to the S1 schematic. Then remove the additional runs the PO’s added. I have oil pressure and oil temp gauges. It does have the optional reverse light wires in tunnel area. I may add a wire color addition to the steering column connector that is not identified.
Dakazman
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Just a reminder that the proper flavors of wires can be had at http://www.britishwiring.com/.
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At $695 for a new wiring harness for a S1 - I think Dakazman's approach is the way to go.
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My S1 and Dilkris,
Correct your amp meter + brown wire off alternator to BW when working off the S1 schematic.
Then a small correction, label the courtesy light assembly on rear bulkhead.
BDA, thanks for posting that site, buying by the meter is better than 100ft rolls , solid colors only . I’ll see what the shipping costs is but it shouldn’t be that bad.
Labeled most of the harness today and rearranging the board , it seems the main fuses and back further in the car than the S2’s , where is the main fuse box?
Dakazman
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You are doing well - and your soldering/heat shrink and cable wrapping skills will improve 10 fold!!
I'm looking forward to this part of the journey myself.
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At $695 for a new wiring harness for a S1 - I think Dakazman's approach is the way to go.
Depends on what your time is worth (or what you're paid IRL). Of course, if any of us really totaled up the time we spend on these beasts and put a monetary amount per hour against it, I'm pretty sure it would be shocking.
(I know what I charge consulting customers for an hour of my time in my practice space...)
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At $695 for a new wiring harness for a S1 - I think Dakazman's approach is the way to go.
I think $695 is a fair price. If with all the connections done, even better.
Dakazman
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[ it seems the main fuses and back further in the car than the S2’s , where is the main fuse box?
Dakazman
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On my S1 fuse box was in the engine bay I think. I rewired car 20 years ago and moved it up front due to S2 wiring harness.
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If the question is: Where is the fuse block located in a Series 1 Europa? The answer is: it located in the engine compartment adjacent to the right-rear wheel. Close by are the voltage regulator and the ignition coil.
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Make sure to eliminate all of those bullets and snap terminals if you value your time. They might as well have been designed to attract moisture and corrode. Even simple spade terminals are miles ahead, though ideally something designed to keep out water like those Deutsch connectors - the knockoffs are still quite good.
If you must keep the bullets for whatever reason...slather the whole joint in dielectric grease.
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314159td ,
I actually like the bullets. At first I would agree with you but after soldering in rather than using a cheap crimper I purchased. I’ve worked with them on many motorcycles and seldom have problems. The dielectric is a good idea as is getting the proper removal and insertion tools. The connectors (black) just replace them initially, I have seen them used without the center sleeve in place.
Dakazman
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+1 on the stock connectors. Work fine. I changed all my old ends and used new sleeves. No issues. Dialectic grease is a good idea.
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314159td ,
"......as is getting the proper removal and insertion tools. The connectors (black) just replace them initially, I have seen them used without the center sleeve in place.
Dakazman
Hi Dakazman - I never new there was a proper tool for these connectors - what does it look like?
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Dilkris,
https://search.app/Y49xkkeDur5Soyy9A
Then tool chesh and scroll down…
https://www.google.com/gasearch?q=puller%20&%20separator%20tools%20lucas%20bullet%20connector%20removal&source=sh/x/gs/m2/5#piu=ps:44&oshopproduct=pid:7107709475504648293,oid:7107709475504648293,iid:9414602121452599003,pvt:hg,pvo:3&oshop=apv&pvs=0
Dakazman
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At $695 for a new wiring harness for a S1 - I think Dakazman's approach is the way to go.
Found this
https://www.autosparks.co.uk/lotus-europa-wiring-harness-set
At $479 all terminals done with grommet included. It may be worth it. Plus shipping of course.
Dakazman
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If you nicely grease or keep an eye on them the bullets are fine...but the idea of maintaining an electrical connector is too much for me. Even doing a concourse restoration, I'd find a way around them. Contact surfaces just all exposed to the elements is a recipe for dim, flickering headlights, as we're all aware
While we're on the subject of harnessing, I'll highly recommend adhesive zip tie mounts (https://www.amazon.com/Weld-Mount-Large-White-Nylon/dp/B00CYB1GBU/ref=asc_df_B00CYB1GBU?mcid=bd1a389275df3d68a2dd89e88ccdf423&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693686140478&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1487399239920732710&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014177&hvtargid=pla-2061307894030&psc=1) and MMA300 (https://www.gluegun.com/products/mma-300-high-performance-methacrylate-adhesive-5-minute-open-time?srsltid=AfmBOoqRdD5egOTxkzM3OozltuiYnabAJH0cnJet9ToX3qvEKK4UYTJ9) or similar aggressive adhesive. Works wonders on the boat harnesses and hoses mounted to fiberglass. I feel like every Europa I've seen irl has some turn signal wiring dangling in the grill.
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Dilkris,
https://search.app/Y49xkkeDur5Soyy9A
Then tool chesh and scroll down…
Dakazman
Thankyou Dakazman, I see the tool is for inserting the bullets, (which I have always managed to "work around") - my problem has always been in separating them, invariably leaving the bullets in situ, and me staring at piece of blank wire. :))
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- my problem has always been in separating them, invariably leaving the bullets in situ, and me staring at piece of blank wire. :))
Yeah, perhaps the most tortuous test of a bullet connector is attempting to pull it out. These little devils are one instance where the soldered bullets are more reliable than the crimped variety IMHO.
There's likely years of that white corrosion inside the sleeves. This can be dissolved with a vinegar/water solution but I reckon replacing them with new sleeves is a much better idea . . and they're cheap enough.
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I agree with the soldering, I thought it was just my crimping tool they failed a pull test. I solder many of them .
In that same note there are bullets for soldering and others for crimping. Ask me how I know🥴.
Dakazman
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If I happened to stock up on the crimp variety, can they be soldered, or are they different shapes, or have different coatings? I bought a bunch a while ago, but am just getting to the electrical phase.
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Kendo,
Yes they can be. The soldered ones seem to be harder, maybe thicker, that's probably why I had trouble crimping them.
Dakazman
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My memory (probably suspect) of the bullet terminals is that the OEM ones were brass 4.7mm Lucas style connector which was of the solder variety.
There's quite a variety of bullet connectors out there - some for crimping because everyone forgot how to solder these days - and there are variations for different wire sizes, too. Perhaps if the same 4.7mm diameter is observed, many might be OK. Remember too that there were smaller bullets used on motorcycles IIRC.
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I never knew there were so many different "forms" of bullets.
Crimped fittings I am personally not a fan of; I have on many occasions used a crimped fitting, removed the plastic sleeve, fluxed and crimped the fitting, soldered and then covered the result with heat shrink sleeving. Not a particularly cost effective practice if you were doing this in business. :)