Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Garage => Topic started by: Jerryh on Saturday,March 22, 2014, 01:33:55 AM
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Hi all
Just wanted to introduce myself and my new project, I live in the UK and have just found a 73 Twin Cam Special which at the moment is not so special as it's missing the Twin cam and has a X flow partly fitted, I have 2 other Loti a 1968 series 3 FHC that I'm just finishing restoring and a 1965 series 2 currently in bits and in a bad way. Generally the car is very good body wise although it's in several different colours which I am in the process of removing back to bare fibreglass. Some parts are missing namely the TC engine!radiator, bumpers, steering wheel, ashtray so if anyone in UK has any spares they want to sell? I do have short engine but a Europa head seems to be a difficult find, I have been told by a TC specialist I know that some later heads had extra on the casting to machine in the oil seal. it has a very good oatmeal interior just needing some minor repairs. The car is kept at my place of work so any odd hour I have I'm stripping back the layers of paint, I did this on my Elan what a horrible job but worth it in my opinion to save any reactions and to identify any repairs/crazing. The original colour is Lagoon blue L12 but not sure wether to keep it original or maybe Roman purple.
Will post up pics soon
Cheers
Jerry
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:Welcome:
If you are not wanting original, there is a thread about an affordable aluminum radiator that's available.
How about some pictures of your 3 projects?
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Hi Jerry, and :Welcome: from another UK owner. And by a bit of a coincidence I've also got an S3 Elan..... (but not an S2 as well, now that does sound an interesting project)
But back to the '73 TCS; bumpers seem to crop up on Ebay from time to time but apart from that I'd expect your best source of replacements will be Banks as he seems to be the only true dedicated supplier on this side of the pond.
Stripping paint must be one of the most tedious parts of restoration but you're exactly right in wanting to get back to bare fibreglass. I know you can spray over old paint and use sealers, etc, but what isn't there can't react, sink or otherwise upset you 12 months after you've finished that perfect paint job !
Anyway it's nice to see another UK owner on the forum, post up some photos as you go along.
Brian
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Mark and Brian
Thanks for the welcome, I will be putting some pics up soon. On the subject of the aluminium radiator I did consider this but what concerns me this side of the pond is the extortionate fees for imported products like this, customs want there bit then parcel farce will want there handling fee, I will probably get one from Banks as I note they list them. Brian what product did you use on the bare fibreglass? I used a polyester spray filler on the Elan but only a couple of coats topped with filler primer and I think the filler primer sunk a bit after time.
Jerry
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Hi Jerry,
I also used a spray filler, U-Pol Reface. There are details of the process I followed here.
http://www.martley.plus.com/2011/htu05.html (http://www.martley.plus.com/2011/htu05.html)
I bought some spray filler from Ebay which was really cheap compared with U-Pol so I thought I would give it a go. It was a mistake, for some reason I just couldn't get it to work properly and it either went off too quickly or not at all. No idea why but I ended up going back to U-Pol which I tend to leave each coat overnight to harden and it's been ok so far.
I've used cellulose primer filler in the past as well, but the last Elan respray I used a 2-pack primer directly on the U-Pol and that seemed much better. I still used cellulose topcoat because I prefer the period finish but there's been no reaction between the two systems. I think if I did the job again I'd go 2-pack for primers.
Brian
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Thanks Brian
U Pol Reface is is then, I do like there products my plan is to get it striped, repaired and primed by the end of April. I forgot to mention its got a 70's glass sunroof YUK!!! I've got Mick at Boss motors to make up a roof panel for me so I can cut out a piece to block up the gaping hole. If I keep it metallic I'm not going to attempt a respray I'm only confident with solid colours so I'll just prep it up to respray standard.
Cheers
Jerry
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:Welcome: Welcome aboard, Jerry. Sounds like quite a project. Keep us posted. Cheers
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:Welcome:
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:Welcome: Jerry! Can't wait to see some pictures!
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Jerry,
Welcome another UK europa restoration, we may be chasing the same parts! I am restoring a TCS, I have nearly finished stripping the main body and will be trying out the Upol that Brian suggested soon. Where are you based, I'm in beaconsfield in the uk.
Dave
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Hello all and thanks for the welcome. Dave I'm in Bristol and we may well be chasing the same parts.
Someone I've had a lot of Elan parts from in the last few years knows someone who's got Europa parts I've made a list up that's been passed on I just have to wait for a reply so hopefully this may yield some. let me know what your looking for and I can ask. I'm well chuffed today as I've managed to find a correct Europa TC head and some cams, it does need some repairs but I've got a good contact for carrying out this work in Bristol so it's off to him tomorrow to get his verdict!
How did you go about stripping the paint from the shell? on my Elan I used a wood chisel to great effect but it's not so easy on this TCS shell I've even tried a small area with paint stripper but that's not so good either.
Jerry
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Sounds like a result on the TC head and cams. I stripped a lot of the body with 60 and 80 grit with various types of sanders and mechanically stripped the paint as I only had one layer to contend with. On the tricky bits bonnet and boot shuts I used paint stripper to strip the top layer then scrapped with profiled chisels and sharpened scrapers. I have a lot of crazing and have now got really good and taking down the gel layer with the angle grinder with a lot of care, before tissuing up.
Tools used. 110mm orbital sander, angle grinder with 80 grit soft pad, power file with a flat profile and 120 grit, dremel, drill with wire brush and various flapper bits and round end flat pieces, various hand profile from flat large flat and round forms. The power file is a black and decker one but with an adaptor I got off eBay that give and angled flat face to use in difficult places, this tool is as aggressive as the angle grinder (got the idea off this site as someone else was thing about using it). But good for recesses especially where repairs are needed
Dave
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Thanks Dave I think I'll invest in a power file and give that a go in the awkward areas.
Jerry
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Buzzer, can you tell me what type of paint stripper you used please? I am about to start stripping a whole car back to the bare F/G as the paint is really awful, most is cracking or missing. I am doing a proper complete nut and bolt restoration.
When you have stripped the paint off, what have you used to make the F/G smooth again, just F/G filler from Halfords?
Cheers,
Alex in Norfolk, the home of Lotus.
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Alex
I've used Nitromors water soluble type the one in the green can. Reference the filler you need to use a polyester spray filler on the bare fibreglass after carrying out any necessary repairs, UPOL Reface seems to be a favourite on here.
Cheers
Jerry
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I used polycell active gel, I found it worked well to strip off the top layers then sanded down the rest which was quite easy. Seemed to work quite well. I used the angle grinder with a sanding disc to take out the crazing, I also used a belt sander with 60 grit as well to take out large panels of crazing. I found the power file very agressive and quite tricky to control to get something anywhere smooth. Then tissue up the crazed areas, smoothed, filled then a final coat of upol to get a smooth finish to send off for spraying
Dave