Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Garage => Topic started by: califkid_66 on Monday,April 17, 2023, 02:04:43 PM
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Had a small leak where the pushrod enters the master so I decided to rebuild it
I’m trying to find a rebuild kit with 0.70” primary and 0.66” secondary
I found rebuild kits but they don’t mention the sizes
Any suggestions or part numbers for rebuild
Thanks!
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White Post Restorations should be able to rebuild your M/C and they will also sleeve the bore in brass. I was happy with the job they did on my M/C and rear calipers. https://whitepost.com/#hometop
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Bores and pistons wear and corrode. Usually there are deep corrosion pits deep in the bores. Plastic reservoirs also deteriorate over time. I believe you can finally get new reservoirs now. Your options are to sleeve & rebuild or to replace.
After 35 years in the field, I only replace with new. I’ve never had a “bad” new TRW master cylinder but I have quite a few new knock-offs fail. Rebuilt masters? I would say a 50% failure rate either right away or within the first year of use. You can’t get an exact new master but the Triumph one can be easily adapted and performs well.
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A long time ago it was cheaper to buy rebuild kits for master and slave cylinders locally. Now, I agree with the buy new.
If you want to make a bracket, Wilwood sells a 5/8 that would work. 5/8 would give better pedal feel with a little more travel.
https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderList?group=Tandem%20Master%20Cylinder%20(TM1)
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Thanks for the replies
I think the best option for me is to put a new one
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I was looking at the cardone 13-1777 it looks a lot like the original comes with a nice square reservoir
Brake lines same side
Or the triumph spitfire mc tilted reservoir brake lines wrong side
Both need some fabrication not sure witch one would be better
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Have you looked for an MC at Moss Motors? They carry a large selection of different MCs used on British cars and I believe they're all new, as opposed to Cardone, which is a rebuilder. Their search function leaves a lot to be desired and requires patience but keep looking and eventually you'll most likely find a direct replacement.
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Don't go Cardone!
Go Triumph Spitfire 0.70 tandem. A genuine one from Girling TRW. Not cheap but worth every penny.
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Got it !! So the only modification is the brake lines but what about the reservoir do I need to change it
Or it is ok ?
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It works just fine as is.
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I am going to put the trw mc small cap 0.70” on my Europa
But I still inquired about sleeving
For lotus Europa 1970 s2 master cylinder sleeving
245 plus s/h it’s in us
Turnaround about 2 weeks
This is from BDA ‘s link white horse
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BPNW lists the TRW cylinder for a bit less than Moss:
https://bpnorthwest.com/triumph/spitfire/brakes/brakes-control/brake-master-cylinder-spitfire-76-to-80.html (https://bpnorthwest.com/triumph/spitfire/brakes/brakes-control/brake-master-cylinder-spitfire-76-to-80.html)
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A word of caution on using the aftermarket Spitfire MCs. The original Spitfire MCs had Imperial 3/8-24 threads on their output ports. I don't know if Triumph ever changed the threads during the production run but the current aftermarket Spitfire MCs have metric M10-1.0 threads. The danger is that the 3/8-24 tube nuts will fit very loosely in the ports and when attempting to torque down on the tube nuts you run the risk of stripping the threads most likely on the MC. Conversely, the M10-1.0 tube nuts will not thread into a 3/8-24 threaded hole.
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Triumph switched from imperial to metric brake line nuts in the late 70s.
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I know I have to fabricate new brake lines I just have to figure the best way to get it done
I could make custom or take existing lines like 10 m and put a fitting that goes metric to imperial
I’m planning to do like in the picture
Found fittings so the plan is to get 12 inch 3/8 imperial line and put female to male 3/8 to m10
Fitting on the master for one of the lines it think this is the best way
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That will work just fine.
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You may find that the 7/16-20 female fitting for 3/16" brake lines extremely difficult to find here in the US. If you find a source, let us know.
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The original brake lines going into the master is 3/8 24 and the other is 7/16 20
The new master is m10 so I’m keeping the same brake lines I’m putting the new fittings on the mc to give it the same output as the original so I just have to lengthen the lines
The fittings are available 3/8 female to m10 male and 7/16 female to m 10 male
I will post the parts I will use and the steps needed for this modification as soon as it’s done
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BrakeQuip sells all the fittings, tools, pipe you might require. Lots of suppliers carry them.
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Thanks I’m getting the mc at a garage that sell and services British cars
I’m going to ask him how he install them now that they are metric I figure if he services spitfires he must know how to install them properly and should have what I need to install the metric one
Just hope he doesn’t give me same answer I saw on a post
From a retailer “ the threads are the same only the wrench is different “
I hope that’s not the case doesn’t sound safe to me
And the other thing I saw check attachment
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I think your idea of using an adaptor piece is the way to go regardless of what the supplier says.
When I fitted on I made up new lines with a metric fitting on one end, imperial fitting on the other to match the rest of the car. I've made my own lines up before and have all the gear plus a box of fittings so that's my easy option. I suspect that will be the case for the supplier as well, they'll be used to making custom lines and the customer sees the car looking the same as before, whereas with an adaptor they may ask "is that a bodge job ?"
I'd not seen adaptors like the ones you found and suspect that if I had seen one I'd have gone that route instead, even though it's an extra joint (to leak ;) )
Brian
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Finally got my new master cylinder and also recieved
A rebuild kit I had ordered I didn’t get the fittings yet
So I decided to try to rebuild the old mc
I slightly honed the mc cleaned it up and reassembled
I measured the seals and there was a .014 difference in
Diameter between old and new I think it was leaking because the seals were worn out
You can see the difference in shape old one on the left