Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Garage => Topic started by: califkid_66 on Sunday,August 14, 2022, 06:24:45 AM
-
I have noticed recently that sometimes when I take off in first gear the rear wheels are a bit jumpy once I’m rolling everything is fine all other gears are ok I f anyone as experienced this what could be wrong clutch works nicely my engine support seem ok so does the transmission support I’m thinking maybe the trailing arm bushings would really like to figure out what’s wrong before tearing everything apart thanks!!
-
The likely cause is the clutch cable is anchored to the frame. Moving the anchor point to the engine will solve the problem.
-
By “jumpy”, do you mean “ jerky”?
-
Here's a link to a previous discussion that may be helpful.
https://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=4579.msg49693#msg49693
-
I tried giving more gas and slowly release the clutch it was ok but if I’m at a street corner at idle and let go the gas without Reving it before the rear wheel sorta jumps instead of rolling smoothly my friend says it might be my carb cause if I rev it before and let go the clutch it’s ok but I don’t want to rev my engine every stop
-
I tried giving more gas and slowly release the clutch it was ok
Well that actually fits the frame anchor scenario. A quick peek in the engine compartment should tell you if that's the problem.
-
ok thanks ill take a look thanks again
-
If the clutch cable outer retaining bracket is welded to the chassis, this causes clutch judder.
Most Ford block cars have a bracket bolted to the block by the exhaust manifold/header where it starts bending under the sump. It is bolted to the block, just above the sump, with 2 x 3/8"UNC bolts.
-
I have an s2 federal with Renault engine as soon as I get a chance I’ll follow the clutch wire
-
I have an s2 federal with Renault engine as soon as I get a chance I’ll follow the clutch wire
Your clutch cable sheath terminates on the right hand side engine mount. The TC is a bit different.
red arrow points to where clutch cable terminates. (not sure, due to fading brain cells, the orientation...but it's blindingly obvious in the car.)
-
ok thanks ill take a look thanks again
if it looks like the first photo...it's welded to the frame (excuse the oil spooge...yeah, 3291R has a well-preserved rear frame...); the second is a photo of the replacement mount which gets bolted to the engine block in the two holes that are there for the (unused) generator mount.
To put it on, you WILL have to disconnect both universals in the engine room to move the tubes out of the way of the front bolt hole. How I'm planning on doing it:
1. Remove cable from throwout arm (after measuring how much cable should be threaded to the nuts)
2. Disconnect rear and middle universals and disconnect shift mechanism
3. Remove cable from the frame mount and push cable out of the way.
4. Using an angle grinder (with fire extinguisher at the ready), cut off the offending mount.
5. Run tap into block to clean up threads and mount new mount.
6. Install clutch cable into new mount and reconnect to throwout arm
7. Reinstall shift mechanism and check operation.
Of course...subject to reality of being bent over the boot end of the car...
-
*** DELETIA ***
Done. Installed. Clutch cable not hooked up...next up...drain oil, remove starter, intermediate shift pivot bracket, bell housing closure plate, drop oil pan and reseal.
Oh, and hook clutch back up and reattach shift mechanism after I get the oil pan back up.
UPDATE: see other thread for continuation of the 'oil pan and lubes discussion'
-
Maybe start a new thread?
-
Maybe start a new thread?
done
-
Back to the original thread !!!
Ok the Europa still jerks but one of the problem was my idle was not regular would go 1000 then went to around 450 so I had to rev up before releasing the clutch I checked the carb and cleaned up my primary idle jet and the idle is much more stable but the jerking continues not often but enough to annoy I went under to see how it was setup
You can see in the pictures
I’m starting to think it suspension related
-
Just one last thing to check regarding the clutch cable. Is the outer housing long enough? Seen some too short in which case it's like the housing isn't there at all.
-
Just one last thing to check regarding the clutch cable. Is the outer housing long enough? Seen some too short in which case it's like the housing isn't there at all.
I was also thinking looking at the photos that there may be play in the cable? OP: how much free play do you have at the pedal? Have you tried adjusting per the manual?
(if you need to adjust the nut to get the free play specified at the END of the arm...hold on to the metal ferule on the front side of the arm so you don't twist the cable as you're moving the nut...)
-
The cable as some loose at the lever more than supposed to I will try adjusting but looking at the pictures it looks like there’s no more adjustment left
Cable seems a bit long or stretched
-
The cable as some loose at the lever more than supposed to I will try adjusting but looking at the pictures it looks like there’s no more adjustment left
Cable seems a bit long or stretched
Another thing to check is that your front clutch cable abutment (which should be located along the floor on the side of the tunnel next to the driver seat) is still in good condition. These are stone simple systems...once the positioning/attachment of items is worked out and checked, then any problems are due to wear of misadjustment.
-
The cable as some loose at the lever more than supposed to I will try adjusting but looking at the pictures it looks like there’s no more adjustment left
Cable seems a bit long or stretched
Use small nuts or spacers to push the outer away from the bracket to give you more adjustment.
I have to do that on hand brake cables at the drum.
-
The cable as some loose at the lever more than supposed to I will try adjusting but looking at the pictures it looks like there’s no more adjustment left
Cable seems a bit long or stretched
Use small nuts or spacers to push the outer away from the bracket to give you more adjustment.
I have to do that on hand brake cables at the drum.
Or just pick up a new clutch cable...not that much $$$ and takes about a half hour to install once the car is up on stands. If the clutch cable is that stretched that far, it's probably past its 'sell by' date.
Sometimes we spend more time (which is worth some measure of $) trying to get a tired item working than just swapping in new (which costs less in the long run, especially if it goes tango uniform some time in the future) and being done with it.
Just my $.02.
-
Or just pick up a new cable...not that much $$$ and takes about a half hour to install once the car is up on stands. If the cable is that stretched, it's probably past its 'sell by' date.
Not quite that easy for the hand brake cable. I over-ordered and have several spare new ones, and even the new ones are much easier to adjust at the drum than in the black hole in the chassis.