Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Garage => Topic started by: SilverBeast on Tuesday,August 27, 2019, 11:51:54 AM
-
So I've started this thread to keep work on my car to one location, so any future owners can see anything I've done to it and be grateful for the information (or curse me for my stupidity ;D)
My previous introduction thread is here -> http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=3253.30 (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=3253.30)
It contains some photos and initial questions. Thanks to all who responded. Some of the issues raised there will be developed fixed here...
Also some more issues will be raised now I've had a little more time to look at and drive the car.
-
So first things first - I've bought another Twin Cam Special
|
|
|
|
|
|
V
-
And a sign for the garage when I eventually get it cleared properly
-
Nice!
:lotus:
-
Now the serious stuff. I believe I've traced the brake fluid leak to the connection into the master cylinder from the reservoir. It only seems to leak after I've driven the car, and possibly the fluid has warmed up.
Question 1
Are the steering rack bellows supposed to be this close to the master cylinder, Some of the folds rub across it
-
Nice!
:lotus:
BTW the Fossil box is nothing to do with the Old Man bit, that was for a watch!
-
While crawling around under the car I noticed that the front drop links seem to be incorrectly fitted. Do they get moved like this over time or is it just bad assembly by a PO? Does the (British) Anti-Roll (US - Sway?) Bar look standard or could it have been replaced. The end fittings just look like a flattened tab with a hole in it and aren't "square" into the mounting pin on the lower arm, though obviously this will change as the suspension loads and unloads. The drop links are also straight, after a bend a short distance from the top mounting. Is this correct? I noticed, having a quick look at the Certified Lotus epic rebuild thread his seem to be shaped around his rack.
-
Now the serious stuff. I believe I've traced the brake fluid leak to the connection into the master cylinder from the reservoir. It only seems to leak after I've driven the car, and possibly the fluid has warmed up.
Question 1
Are the steering rack bellows supposed to be this close to the master cylinder, Some of the folds rub across it
That is not the stock M/C and there is supposed to be a spacer between the frame and the M/C. The M/C is probably not the problem but the lack of the spacer (and the longer push rod that would need to go with it) is your problem. I would try Lotus Supplies Ltd.
-
While crawling around under the car I noticed that the front drop links seem to be incorrectly fitted. Do they get moved like this over time or is it just bad assembly by a PO? Does the (British) Anti-Roll (US - Sway?) Bar look standard or could it have been replaced. The end fittings just look like a flattened tap with a hole in it and aren't "square" into the mounting pin on the lower arm, though obviously this will change as the suspension loads and unloads. The drop links are also straight, after a bend a short distance from the top mounting. Is this correct? I noticed, having a quick look at the Certified Lotus epic rebuild thread his seem to be shaped around his rack.
The drop links and anti-roll bar look standard but it appears that the lower bushing was pushed toward the center. They are pretty much as you describe. The slight bend at the top is to clear the rack, etc. The anti-roll bar looks ok. I would try straightening the drop links so they are not pointed toward the center but rather in line with the upper suspension fulcrum where it's mounted. They probably just pivoted on the fulcrum pin so try to swing them further out so they are straight. It could be that he did that on purpose as a poor man's shorter drop link so that the roll bar is higher up in the car.
Also, that looks like an S2 anti-roll bar. I think the S2 had a 1/2" bar but according to the parts manual, all the TCs have a 3/4" bar.
-
As BDA mentions the drop link should be straightened. There is a bump on the anti roll bar which should prevent the bush from moving to far along the anti roll bar. It looks like the bush has been pushed over this bump. See the attached picture of my chassis.
Regards,
Sherman
-
There are 'pips' pressed onto the anti roll bar that kind of locate where the drop links should sit - you can just make them out on the pics that you have posted - the drop links are the wrong side of the pips. As BDA has said, the drop link should drop pretty much vertically to the bar.
The rack gaiters do look a bit big tbh, they are probably a universal type that somebody has fitted, not too difficult to replace and find some of a slightly smaller diameter, if I can find he box for the last set I bought I will post a pic for reference (only universal anyway tbh!)
Something I have noticed from your pics is that the front closing plate appears to be missing. It's a steel plate that fixes to the front edge of the chassis and bolts through the floor of the body near where the spare wheel and radiator are located. - well worth having this fitted asap, it supports the front end, without it the shell tends to crack from about the mid point of the front arches! It's quite common for them to be missing and for the car to have the resulting cracks in the shell.
-
Now the serious stuff. I believe I've traced the brake fluid leak to the connection into the master cylinder from the reservoir. It only seems to leak after I've driven the car, and possibly the fluid has warmed up.
Question 1
Are the steering rack bellows supposed to be this close to the master cylinder, Some of the folds rub across it
That is not the stock M/C and there is supposed to be a spacer between the frame and the M/C. The M/C is probably not the problem but the lack of the spacer (and the longer push rod that would need to go with it) is your problem. I would try Lotus Supplies Ltd.
Looking at this thread->http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=138.0 (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=138.0) it looks like the UK Specials didn't have a spacer block between the Master Cylinder and the chassis. Can anyone with a UK Special confirm this?
-
Silver, great start on this thread. excellent advice from the other posts. Where did you get that great sign? I would love one for my Barn/garage/kayak storage area. Keep up the posts and pictures.
Sandy
-
BDA, JR73, Sherman Kaplan. Thanks for your responses. That's pretty much the conclusion I had come to.
Something I have noticed from your pics is that the front closing plate appears to be missing. It's a steel plate that fixes to the front edge of the chassis and bolts through the floor of the body near where the spare wheel and radiator are located. - well worth having this fitted asap, it supports the front end, without it the shell tends to crack from about the mid point of the front arches! It's quite common for them to be missing and for the car to have the resulting cracks in the shell.
Thanks for this information. That one of the (many) other questions I was going to ask.
Looking here -> http://rdent.com/manuals/europa/s2parts/chassis/aa.htm (http://rdent.com/manuals/europa/s2parts/chassis/aa.htm) it appears to show that the S1/S2 had a closing plate but here - > http://rdent.com/manuals/europa/tcparts/chassis/aa.htm (http://rdent.com/manuals/europa/tcparts/chassis/aa.htm) it appears that the TC/TCS didn't have them. Again can anyone with a UK Spec TCS confirm this?
To me it would make sense to fit one if only to give a modicum of protection to the (single circuit) brake pipes, master cylinder, and the steering rack, from road debris. It may also have a marginal improvement in aerodynamics with a marginally cleaner underbody path. It would possible also allow you to "surf" further through deep puddles/lakes before gravity finally won ;D I wonder if anyone has tried to covert a Europa into an Amphicar.....
Does anyone have the dimensions of this closing plate?
-
Silver, great start on this thread. excellent advice from the other posts. Where did you get that great sign? I would love one for my Barn/garage/kayak storage area. Keep up the posts and pictures.
Sandy
ebay UK --> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEVER-UNDERESTIMATE-AN-OLD-MAN-WITH-A-CLASSIC-LOTUS-EUROPA-METAL-SIGN-8-X-8/112844016710?hash=item1a46070c46:g:nXEAAOSwcN5amAFB (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEVER-UNDERESTIMATE-AN-OLD-MAN-WITH-A-CLASSIC-LOTUS-EUROPA-METAL-SIGN-8-X-8/112844016710?hash=item1a46070c46:g:nXEAAOSwcN5amAFB)
-
BDA, JR73, Sherman Kaplan. Thanks for your responses. That's pretty much the conclusion I had come to.
Thanks for this information. That one of the (many) other questions I was going to ask.
Looking here -> http://rdent.com/manuals/europa/s2parts/chassis/aa.htm (http://rdent.com/manuals/europa/s2parts/chassis/aa.htm) it appears to show that the S1/S2 had a closing plate but here - > http://rdent.com/manuals/europa/tcparts/chassis/aa.htm (http://rdent.com/manuals/europa/tcparts/chassis/aa.htm) it appears that the TC/TCS didn't have them. Again can anyone with a UK Spec TCS confirm this?
To me it would make sense to fit one if only to give a modicum of protection to the (single circuit) brake pipes, master cylinder, and the steering rack, from road debris. It may also have a marginal improvement in aerodynamics with a marginally cleaner underbody path. It would possible also allow you to "surf" further through deep puddles/lakes before gravity finally won ;D I wonder if anyone has tried to covert a Europa into an Amphicar.....
Does anyone have the dimensions of this closing plate?
All Europa variants from S2 onwards should have a closing plate. TC version is listed in the below link on Banks website, it's different to the S2 closing plate hence the separate listing.
http://www.parts.banks-europa.co.uk/orders_frame.htm
-
BDA, JR73, Sherman Kaplan. Thanks for your responses. That's pretty much the conclusion I had come to.
Thanks for this information. That one of the (many) other questions I was going to ask.
Looking here -> http://rdent.com/manuals/europa/s2parts/chassis/aa.htm (http://rdent.com/manuals/europa/s2parts/chassis/aa.htm) it appears to show that the S1/S2 had a closing plate but here - > http://rdent.com/manuals/europa/tcparts/chassis/aa.htm (http://rdent.com/manuals/europa/tcparts/chassis/aa.htm) it appears that the TC/TCS didn't have them. Again can anyone with a UK Spec TCS confirm this?
To me it would make sense to fit one if only to give a modicum of protection to the (single circuit) brake pipes, master cylinder, and the steering rack, from road debris. It may also have a marginal improvement in aerodynamics with a marginally cleaner underbody path. It would possible also allow you to "surf" further through deep puddles/lakes before gravity finally won ;D I wonder if anyone has tried to covert a Europa into an Amphicar.....
Does anyone have the dimensions of this closing plate?
All Europa variants from S2 onwards should have a closing plate. TC version is listed in the below link on Banks website, it's different to the S2 closing plate hence the separate listing.
http://www.parts.banks-europa.co.uk/orders_frame.htm
Great. Thanks for that. I've just been looking on the Banks site and couldn't see anything. It did however seem to add everything I've browsed for the past week or so in that tab to the basket - it was over £50k!
-
Link doesn't appear to take you to the correct place so here's a screenshot instead!
-
I wonder if anyone has tried to covert a Europa into an Amphicar.....
Not quite an amphicar but they can certainly float if they need too.....
-
The M/C spacer was on on TCs (http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/tcparts/j/tcjb.pdf). I suspect Lotus Supplies might be the best place to find that because Richard, the original proprietor of what is now called Lotus Supplies and he has built complete cars.
Just to avoid any confusion, Lotus Supplies used to be Banks.
-
The M/C spacer was on on TCs (http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/tcparts/j/tcjb.pdf). I suspect Lotus Supplies might be the best place to find that because Richard, the original proprietor of what is now called Lotus Supplies and he has built complete cars.
Just to avoid any confusion, Lotus Supplies used to be Banks.
Thanks for the replies BDA. Mine only has the single circuit sytem (http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/tcparts/j/ja.htm (http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/tcparts/j/ja.htm)), which doesn't appear to have the spacer, with a single servo. I suspect the spacer was only on the cars with dual circuit brakes - I assume the M/C is bigger - and we may not have got that in the UK as I don't believe we were as quick off the mark with Health & Safety! That's probably why we also got the TCS Big Valve High Compression 126bhp engines while the Federal versions had the 113bhp versions - if you can believe Wikipedia!
-
I agree that you have to be careful with Wikipedia but those number sound familiar. Unless the parts manual page is incorrect, you are right about the spacer! The dual braking system had a M/C with a reservoir on top which definitely required a spacer for it to clear the rack. Well, in that case, I'd see what I could do to ensure a good junction between the brake pipe and the M/C. Keeping it away from the rack gator (bellows) might be a good first step. Those gators are what is available at the time. I think the design of them changes slightly from year to year, probably depending on who makes them that year so yours may be a bit bigger around than others.
-
it looks like the UK Specials didn't have a spacer block between the Master Cylinder and the chassis. Can anyone with a UK Special confirm this?
There is about a 3" oval cast aluminium spacer between the master cylinder and the chassis. If you lose it, you can make 3 spacers, 1 large round one for the extension bar to go in, and two small round ones for the studs. I did this for one car and wrapped the three with black tape to make them look the right shape.
-
So I've had chance to drive it a bit more.
The clutch is slipping when you give it some beans in 3rd and 4th and it's just started crunching the gear when I select reverse, as if the clutch isn't disengaged properly, though it doesn't seem to drag. I guess it's possible the crankshaft oil seal is leaking into the bell housing. Could it then get onto the clutch and cause the slipping? It does seem to recover when you ease off and only do it when the engine is hot. The car milometer shows just over 62k miles so it could just be on it's last legs. Is there a way of checking plate wear via an inspection hole? or does the engine and transaxle need to come out to check it?
Oil level doesn't seem to be going down, though I've probably only done about 100miles since I got it. It's only got minor incontinence, a few drops from the bottom of the sump and the left hand side of the transaxle I think.
Pretty convinced the bushings will be missing at the bottom of the gear lever, just by the amount of slop, and the way the gear lever rotates! I also need to check the bushing where the two selector shafts meet. I was told the rear section was replaced by one from Banks.
Hopefully this weekend I'll get chance to check clutch adjustment, get the back up on axle stands and check out the rear brakes. I'm not overly happy with only an inch or so of "bite" in the brakes at the bottom of the travel!
While it's up in the air I also intend to get some gunk onto all the oil and muck on the engine and transaxle and pressure wash it off. If I get it clean enough I may be able to get a better idea where any the leaks are.
I also need to try and clear organise my garage a bit more so I can fit in some more equipment (and have room to work).
Then get online and buy some more stuff!
-
I don't know of a way to check the clutch disk with the tranny installed. I would not think that a 62K mile clutch would be on it's last legs. I would check the clutch cable adjustment. If that's not successful, then you might need to replace the clutch disk. Taking the tranny out isn't that big a deal. While it's all out, you should get a new throw-out bearing, check the clutch plate to make sure it hasn't gotten scored and is flat.
If your oil level changes after 100 miles, I would be very concerned! :'(
The leak on the side of the tranny should be addressed but if it's minor, you have plenty of time to get and learn what you need to fix it The seals around the output shaft is surely the culprit. I believe there is a thread on this forum about doing that. Doing it correctly is very important because the nuts also control the ring and pinion back lash. In the meantime monitor the level of tranny oil and keep it topped up.
Good luck on your garage clearing up/organizing!
-
If your clutch is both dragging and slipping, and has full pedal travel, it’s probably on its last legs.
-
Pretty convinced the bushings will be missing at the bottom of the gear lever, just by the amount of slop, and the way the gear lever rotates! I also need to check the bushing where the two selector shafts meet. I was told the rear section was replaced by one from Banks.
Take a picture of the rear gear linkage and post it on here, we can confirm if it's original or Banks for you? - it could be an original replacement from Banks or a Banks modified linkage, there is quite a difference between them.
It's fairly easy to remove just the gearbox to get to the clutch - leaving the engine in, like BDA has said once it's off you can check the condition of everything to get a better idea of what might be causing the slip - hard to guess without looking at it as there are many things that could cause it tbh.
Chances are it's just worn out as you suspect.
Check that the cable moves freely too, it's unlikely but it could be past its best and not allowing the clutch to fully engage.
-
Gearbox linkage photos below. Definite metal to metal rattle from gear lever when moving gently side to side, without moving front section of gearbox linkage, and some rotation of gear lever without moving linkage either! Does anyone have the dimensions of the plastic bushes fitted to the bottom of the gear lever? I know 3929R replaced his with Oilite and would like to do the same when I get round to it. I suspect gearbox will be out soon ish for clutch issues anyway, so it would be the ideal time to replace them then.
-
Also to note is the handbrake cable outer waving around by the selector shaft and the end of the cable tie used to fasten it to the chassis!
I looked at the front linkage for the handbrake and noticed that the lever between the pull and the cable looks bent downwards so the cable to the rear scrapes the fibreglass. Is this typical?
Also how is the handbrake balance inside the chassis supposed to be routed? It is clearly rubbing on one of the heater/radiator tubes.
-
The blue wires are for the fan override switch fitted by a PO! Does the windscreen washer tube usually run under there as well? If not where is it normally routed?
-
I'm not familiar with Richard's jois but what you have looks original to me. JR73 can be more definitive. The bushings at the bottom of the gear lever are available, just buy new ones. It also looks like the pivot bolted on the bell housing is loose. Obviously check the u-joints between the linkage halves and the one at the tranny for slop.
I THINK there is a sort of a dog-leg in the handbrake lever but it should not rug the fiberglass. You can take it out and bend it a little so it doesn't rub.
I'm not sure I understand about the handbrake balance rubbing the heater tubes but I would try to route it away from tubes or put some rubber cover of some sort on the handbrake cable to cushion it.
The radiator fan override should not be routed near moving stuff. First, the wires should follow the Lucas standard at least keeping up with the standard for white, green, and brown wires. Here's the complete standard (https://www.triumphexp.com/article/lucas-colours.html). There is a place where wires from the fuse box run under the front trunk. That's a better place to route those wires.
Sorry, I can't remember where the windscreen washer tube is routed. For some reason, my washer quit working and it's really hard to take it off the back of the dash to test or replace the pump. :-[
-
Thanks for your reply
The bushings at the bottom of the gear lever are available, just buy new ones.
I know about the nylon bushes. It looks like sj sports cars have a brass or oilite one. I assume I'll need two https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/SJ535.htm (https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/SJ535.htm)
It also looks like the pivot bolted on the bell housing is loose.
I think there is a washer, or spacer between the bracket and the bell housing. It feels solid.
It also looks like the pivot bolted on the bell housing is loose.
I will do when I get it on axle stands - hopefully tomorrow morning if I can drag myself our of bed.
I'm not sure I understand about the handbrake balance rubbing the heater tubes but I would try to route it away from tubes or put some rubber cover of some sort on the handbrake cable to cushion it.
You can see where the handbrake cable has rubbed on one of the pipes inside the chassis central tunnel. I was wondering if they have been routed wrong somewhere else which has pulled them to where they are. I seem to recall reading something about it on one of the other threads, but haven't had chance to try and find it again.
The radiator fan override should not be routed near moving stuff. First, the wires should follow the Lucas standard at least keeping up with the standard for white, green, and brown wires. Here's the complete standard (https://www.triumphexp.com/article/lucas-colours.html). There is a place where wires from the fuse box run under the front trunk. That's a better place to route those wires.
I think I mentioned the wires in my "New Member" post. I intend to re-route them and rig up a fan relay. The radiator "otter" switch is also disconnected, I'm assuming it's failed, so I will replace that if required so that it will come on automatically in case I'm enjoying myself too much to look at the temperature guage and flick the switch! I still have the horn push to check properly so I can disconnect it from the "fan" switch on the dash, and re-instate air-flow to the cabin, other than by forward motion!
-
The clear tube from the washer reservoir sack goes into the void where the handbrake reaction lever is, along the top of the centre chassis tunnel underneath the heater to the pump screwed to the back of the dashboard.
-
Those brass bushes look great! I would get those over the nylon ones. Two are required.
AFAIK, the factory did nothing to restrain the choke, heater, handbrake, or speedo cables in the backbone. Anything you can do in that regard would be a positive as would any cushioning you can do to keep one thing from abrading another.
I got an aluminum radiator which has a threaded bung for the fan thermostat. For whatever reason, probably because I lunched out, I wasn't able to make it work so I use a fan controller. It's nice because it allows me to adjust when the fan comes on and an override circuit is built into it. There's nothing wrong with the otter switch (other than the fear that the pressure might pop it out (I don't think I've heard of that happening but that may require occasional replacement of the rubber grommet around it.). I believe I have seen where some employ a mechanical means such as a zip tie, to ensure it doesn't pop out. Of course, if yours has failed, you will probably need a fan controller since I couldn't find them listed at SJ Sportscars or Lotus Supplies.
-
Gearbox linkage photos below. Definite metal to metal rattle from gear lever when moving gently side to side, without moving front section of gearbox linkage, and some rotation of gear lever without moving linkage either! Does anyone have the dimensions of the plastic bushes fitted to the bottom of the gear lever? I know 3929R replaced his with Oilite and would like to do the same when I get round to it. I suspect gearbox will be out soon ish for clutch issues anyway, so it would be the ideal time to replace them then.
That is not a Banks modified gear linkage - it looks pretty much like the original (which the Banks one definitely doesn't resemble at all!) so it could possibly be an original based replacement from Banks that may or may not have some alternative parts in due to availability etc.
From your description I think you are correct to suspect that the bushes at the base of the gearstick are shot! Whilst you are investigating that it is worth checking the condition of the bearing and plate that the gearstick is mounted in - there isn't much to it and an old and tired one can contribute to poor shifting. Have seen quite a few where due to the bushes being worn and the resultant poor shifting the bearing ends up worn excessively in the plate.
It's not a great pic but below shows part of the Banks modified gear linkage (there are versions of this that can be fitted to the original chassis but you can see how different it is from what you have).
-
Thanks once again for everyone's responses.
Looks like I'll finally have to start getting my hands dirty!
-
Thanks once again for everyone's responses.
Looks like I'll finally have to start getting my hands dirty!
Did you seriously think you could own an Europa and not get your hands dirty?!
-
Course not it's one of the reasons I got one. My first two cars were mini's.. and I was servicing my parents Vauxhall Viva and Ford Cortina before I could drive. Away least I don't need to worry about the body rusting on this one! I'm a sucker for punishment.
-
Also to note is the handbrake cable outer waving around by the selector shaft and the end of the cable tie used to fasten it to the chassis!
I looked at the front linkage for the handbrake and noticed that the lever between the pull and the cable looks bent downwards so the cable to the rear scrapes the fibreglass. Is this typical?
Also how is the handbrake balance inside the chassis supposed to be routed? It is clearly rubbing on one of the heater/radiator tubes.
The translator looks to be the correct shape, you are correct that it and the cable shouldn't rub on the fibreglass. From memory it's fixing into the chassis looks to be a threaded tube that sits proud of the chassis by about 10/15mm, the top edge should be about level with the fibreglass of the body. The translator sits on a washer on top of this tube with a sprung steel type washer under the bolt head. - Check to see if it is assembled correctly?
If the felt material that goes between the chassis and body is too thick it can affect the above as the shell sits slightly higher which can make the translator rub on it just like in your picture (have seen this before also!) - it's not practical to suggest that you remove the body to investigate that particular one so a work around is probably best!
There looks to be some sponge foam in and around it that I don't remember should be there (does anyone have this in their car?) which doesn't look like it will be helping.
The wires need re routing as has already been mentioned.
It is possible to open up the slot in the fibreglass to create clearance for the cable and translator but it's best to check its all assembled correctly first.
The handbrake balancer should be underneath both radiator tubes, looks like somebody has struggled to get everything assembled correctly (maybe when replacing a cable?) through the oval access hole in the chassis. It is likely to rub slightly on the bottom of the radiator tubes when the handbrake is pulled on but this will be minimal.
The adjuster is a real PITA to get to!
Looks like you have quite a few jobs to attend to or investigate, nothing is overly difficult and you will enjoy it all the more when it works even better as a result of your efforts.
-
There looks to be some sponge foam in and around it that I don't remember should be there (does anyone have this in their car?) which doesn't look like it will be helping.
Originally, there was jute padding between the frame and the body. Most people replace the jute with closed cell foam. Could it be that there was a body-off in your car's past?
-
There looks to be some sponge foam in and around it that I don't remember should be there (does anyone have this in their car?) which doesn't look like it will be helping.
Originally, there was jute padding between the frame and the body. Most people replace the jute with closed cell foam. Could it be that there was a body-off in your car's past?
BDA, the sponge foam i meant can be seen in the pic around the translator - can't remember seeing any of that there before?
-
I don't remember seeing anything like that on my car either. It's hard for me to tell since I haven't looked at that part of my car in a very long time but from the way I look at it, it looks like that foam is between the body and the frame and wasn't trimmed very well.
-
It's two short bits of square section foam that have been pushed into the gap around the cable pivot assembly over the fiberglass on top of the frame. I just put it back in after taking it out and wondering what it was for.
-
I can't help you. I have no clue (again).
-
I don’t know how much difference there is between a 74 TCS and a 72TC but in my car there wasn't any foam around the handbrake translator. Someone has stuffed this in for some reason (a squeak maybe?). Having just completed a 3 year frame off on my 72 TC I know every inch of these cars. (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=1704.0)
Those blue wires should be rerouted to the other side of the dash. All the wiring goes thru the body to the front of the car through a small indent in the fiberglass behind the fuse box. It’s easy to run more wiring, just use a coat hanger wire to tun it through. This is also where the windshield spray hose is routed to the fluid bag in the front of the car.
The handbrake adjuster should be below the water pipes. See photos attached.
-
The handbrake adjuster should be below the water pipes.
I'd decided that that was probably the case. I believe it was your opus that I probably read it in before, though I'm only at page 60. I've dipped in and out of it for reference and to read about your LOG trip with envy!
.....and to look at the garage ::)
I'm pretty sure the handbrake cable has been replaced, or at least taken off, as it's just threaded through tie-wrap loops in the engine bay and the balance bar/swingtree/u shaped bit is upside down compared to yours. This will mean, if/when it does rub on the cooling tubes rather it'll be the sharper edges of the pressing that rub, rather than the curve. I'll push it down for now, if I can, but it probably needs the rear section refitting at some point. Not an easy task, as I have read. I may be lucky and be able to flip the cables in the chassis slot and "swap" the two rear sections, particularly as the rear outers don't seem to be fastened to the frame.
Is there a bigger access hole, under the armrest, if I remove the centre console/tunnel trim? There is nothing under my armrest, was it just a piece of foam or was there a cap? It does aid cabin ventilation though in warm weather as there is a nice cool breeze from under it to cool my palm, at least until the engine warms up. Is this one of Colin's design features, to dry sweaty palms to aid with the gear change? :)
-
Glad you read most of my postings on my rebuild. It was meant to aid others going thru the same thing, particularly the areas that aren’t well documented or explained. You will note I asked lots of questions from forum members. There is great advice from everyone and it really helped in my rebuild.
My garage was a 15 year exercise of collecting and adding. It doesn’t happen over night :welder: And because I knew I would be doing a number of restorations I always bought the tools I needed vs borrow or rent.
There is a large opening in the chassis under the arm rest. In my car the arm rest is held in place with 2 plastic clips. You just pull the armrest up. I don’t know if there is any sealing of the opening. Mine didn’t have it and I noticed on my 800 mile road trip warm air flowed thru this area at speed. I made a mental note to seal this off for summer use (I won’t be driving this car during the winter).
You have a very nice car to start with. Take your time and get to know it. The clutch needing replacement will get you into the thick of things pretty quickly. Removing the engine and transaxle isn’t hard, but you need a long engine lift stand along with basic tools.
Regarding the shift tube, everything I read talked about how shifting was marginal even from new. So I decided to replace everything at the same time to get the best shifting possible. The main tubes are usually fine, it’s everything that is connected to them. Here in the us, the middle u-joint between the two tubes is unobtainable. I did find one OEM new one, but the shop wanted $400 for it and I said no way and bought RD Enterprises new version of this u-joint. It works fine.
Make sure you safety wire the roll pin at the end of the tube where the small u-joint bracket and the transaxle gear selector rod are connected. If that roll pin comes out you are stranded without the able to shift any gears. Same with the axle shaft roll pins, safety wire them.
-
I'm pretty sure the handbrake cable has been replaced, or at least taken off, as it's just threaded through tie-wrap loops in the engine bay and the balance bar/swingtree/u shaped bit is upside down compared to yours. This will mean, if/when it does rub on the cooling tubes rather it'll be the sharper edges of the pressing that rub, rather than the curve. I'll push it down for now, if I can, but it probably needs the rear section refitting at some point. Not an easy task, as I have read. I may be lucky and be able to flip the cables in the chassis slot and "swap" the two rear sections, particularly as the rear outers don't seem to be fastened to the frame.
The U shaped part should really be open side to the top - look at the drawings of it in the workshop manual and parts listing. Suspect the idea is that when the car is moving and the handbrake is off the cable technically falls slack and the rear cable can’t fall down out of the U - it is going to be bounced around quite a bit in there as you drive. The car isn’t going anywhere (usually!) when the handbrake is on and the amount it moves when you pull the handbrake is fairly small so you would be applying the handbrake an awful lot before you rub through the water pipes!! If you are worried about any sharp edges catching then dress them with a file to smooth them off.
-
There used to be a slab of foam under the access hole in the frame under the arm rest - apparently for just the purpose you mentioned: keep the hot air from coming in there in the summer and the cold air from coming in in the winter. Certified's plastic clips sound nice. I used Velcro.
-
The U shaped part should really be open side to the top - look at the drawings of it in the workshop manual and parts listing. Suspect the idea is that when the car is moving and the handbrake is off the cable technically falls slack and the rear cable can’t fall down out of the U - it is going to be bounced around quite a bit in there as you drive. The car isn’t going anywhere (usually!) when the handbrake is on and the amount it moves when you pull the handbrake is fairly small so you would be applying the handbrake an awful lot before you rub through the water pipes!! If you are worried about any sharp edges catching then dress them with a file to smooth them off.
I pushed it under but as soon as I pull handbrake it comes back up again! So it's staying as it was..
There used to be a slab of foam under the access hole in the frame under the arm rest - apparently for just the purpose you mentioned: keep the hot air from coming in there in the summer and the cold air from coming in in the winter. Certified's plastic clips sound nice. I used Velcro.
Mine has the clips, but they need fettleing as they are a bit tired. They look like standard trim clips. The hardboard backing has also distorted without any foam support.
I've also tie wrapped speedo cable? to choke as it was crossing over handbrake cable. I think it should have been left on the bottom of the chassis tunnel with rear handbrake cable passing over it when this was fitted, but it hadn't been!
-
So I finally got it onto axle stands, then the heavens opened.
Oh well it didn't leak in! Though pressing on the panel in front of the driver I can see the panel flex away from the windscreen trim. I guess this means the screen needs refitting?
-
Your setup is a pretty nice replacement for the stock attachment of the armrest. Originally, there were plastic clips that I never saw unclipped, only broken. I know some people put warnings on their pads because many people figured the cushion came off ao access storage. Any system whereby you can take the pad off to get to stuff in the backbone and reattach the pad is good. I've had my pad off at least a dozen times!
-
When the rain eased I tightened the rear wheel nuts/lugs (which I had loosened prior to lifting) to 45lb/ft as per the Workshop Manual and two stripped :'(. So I backed off to 40lb/ft - the low end of the range.
I'm not sure if they are standard or not, they look different to those listed as Genuine Lotus at SJ Sportscars https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/A074G6000Z.htm (https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/A074G6000Z.htm) Mine don't look as though they extend into the alloy as far.
The wheel stud doesn't seem to extend outside the Alloy as far as the fronts do either. I'm wondering if the studs have been changed for shorter ones, or maybe ones that should be for steel wheels?
-
So I finally got it onto axle stands, then the heavens opened.
Oh well it didn't leak in! Though pressing on the panel in front of the driver I can see the panel flex away from the windscreen trim. I guess this means the screen needs refitting?
I'm not sure it does. That plastic windshield trim piece covers the joint and below the part you see, it has a piece that the edge of the windshield fits in. The bottom edge of that piece (that grabs the windshield on its inner side) is where the sealing takes place so if it seals in the rain when you're driving you should be in good shape. I doubt I described that very well but hopefully you'll figure it out without too much trouble!
-
So I put it back in the garage and the sun came out. Typical British weather.
I'd noticed the steering wheel was scraping against the column surround and that the "outer column" that holds the indicator/headlight stalks could rotate slightly and also move in and out so I decided to look at that. I also wanted to finish getting the centre horn push to work.
The outer column was moving inside the clamp that holds it to the dashboard with two studs, one of which is a ground point for some of the wiring. After I took it apart I noticed a shaped steel spacer which I assume is supposed to locate in the groove on the inside of the two clamp halves (it's easier to look at the pictures). I assume that the join faces up so that it doesn't pinch the wiring held in the lower half of the clamp. Can anyone tell me if I am correct?
As mine was already tight I have taken the paint off the mating faces so it will hopefully clamp a little tighter. Is the spacer supposed to grip the clamp and column? It is shaped and has high and low points.
-
Replace all the wheel studs if some have stripped. Usually this means a tire shop has used an impact wrench on them and over-tightened and stressed them. Stock studs and nuts can be torqued to 45 ft/lbs all day long, every day of the year and not give any trouble at all.
-
Can that be done in-situ or will I need to take the hubs/uprights off?
-
Hubs off at the front (a simple operation). Not sure about the rear.
-
The front studs actually look longer (I took one wheel nut off to check) have clean thread all the way to the end. The rears look rounded at the end, almost as if they were made like that, with the naked eye anyway. Not so sure when I zoomed in on photos though!
-
Same stud front and back IIRC.
-
The studs can be taken off the front or the rear hubs in-situ. I've done it.
-
Same stud front and back IIRC.
The Parts Manual gives two different past numbers, but identical descriptions http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/tcparts/index.htm (http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/tcparts/index.htm) under front and rear suspension. SJS give one part number for all variants https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/SJ036C0009.htm (https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/SJ036C0009.htm) and Europa Engineering / Lotus Supplies limited seem to offer the same or 12mm Kits and components. I assume the 12mm Kits non-standard? They look as though they are £50 cheaper! I was wondering if the PO may have fitted one of these (I was told engine has been rebuilt in the past).
-
The studs can be taken off the front or the rear hubs in-situ. I've done it.
Thanks once again for every ones replies.
Is there a link to any instructions for this? Any special tooling needed?
-
No special tooling. When I did it, I just tapped them out with a hammer, but it would be better to hold a punch on the end of the stud and tap the punch with a hammer. If you're keeping the stud, it would also be a good idea to screw a nut on the end of the stud to protect the stud. There is enough room behind the hole in the hub for the stud to come out. I did it on the side of the road (don't ask!) so I only had a hammer. It was easy. One thing you might consider is using Loktite on the knurl when you reinstall the studs. Once the studs go in and out, it can sometimes make for a looser fit the next time.
-
Certified's plastic clips sound nice. I used Velcro.
I used the same P clips and plastic cups that hold the door card panels to the doors.
You have to drill the holes slightly bigger and attach the P clips to the underside with a 2" strip of aluminium and 2 self tapping screws holding the aluminium to the underside of the pad. You can slide the P clips up and down until the match the cups, then tighten the screws.
The cable cannot come out of the U as the threaded adjuster keeps it in the groove.
-
The cable cannot come out of the U as the threaded adjuster keeps it in the groove.
It does but if the cable falls too slack the cable can fall out of the ends of the U, especially if it is upside down, which then won't help when the handbrake next gets pulled. You can also pinch the ends of the U slightly to stop the cable falling out but surely its easier to just fit it correctly in the first place? - That would also help if anyone ever needs to replace the cable in the future as 'un pinching' the ends of the U would be a difficult task inside the chassis and it wont fit out of the slot in the chassis that the cable is fed in through.....
-
It does but if the cable falls too slack the cable can fall out of the ends of the U, especially if it is upside down, which then won't help when the handbrake next gets pulled. You can also pinch the ends of the U slightly to stop the cable falling out but surely its easier to just fit it correctly in the first place? - That would also help if anyone ever needs to replace the cable in the future as 'un pinching' the ends of the U would be a difficult task inside the chassis and it wont fit out of the slot in the chassis that the cable is fed in through.....
Agreed, the crimping makes little sense but my Type 54 has a U with pinched ends and I've seen others likewise.
It's a bodge but I presumed they came from the factory that way.
Happy to be corrected.
-
My 'U' or horseshoe was crimped from the factory.
-
Mine also has slightly crimped ends - as it came from the factory. I have been able to just about wrestle the rear cable out without having to un crimp these ends but the cable was resting in the bottom of the U with the handbrake released and the open side facing upwards. - It didn't rely on the ends to be crimped overly tight to stop the rear cable falling out of the bottom!
All of this is in answer to which way is correct?! Workshop manual and parts listing suggest it was intended that way along with the practicalities of fitting and servicing those parts in a fairly inaccessible part of the car.... would gladly watch someone prove me wrong by easily getting the cable in the U that's facing downwards and crimp the ends sufficiently to retain the cable whilst positioning it all under the waterpipes.... popcorn at the ready but i can't promise not to laugh at the cursing ;)
My car has it fitted the way i've described as have many other Europas that i was involved in building and/or servicing over a number of years whilst working at Banks (mine even has aluminium water pipes for it to rub on!!) and tbh i can't say i ever saw a car that we stripped or worked on where the water pipes had been rubbed through by the handbrake cables or associated components (they generally rot first!). Happy to add also that i am not claiming to be 100% correct but looking at the info that we all have to hand it would appear to be fitted that way around.
-
So I put it back in the garage and the sun came out. Typical British weather.
I'd noticed the steering wheel was scraping against the column surround and that the "outer column" that holds the indicator/headlight stalks could rotate slightly and also move in and out so I decided to look at that. I also wanted to finish getting the centre horn push to work.
The outer column was moving inside the clamp that holds it to the dashboard with two studs, one of which is a ground point for some of the wiring. After I took it apart I noticed a shaped steel spacer which I assume is supposed to locate in the groove on the inside of the two clamp halves (it's easier to look at the pictures). I assume that the join faces up so that it doesn't pinch the wiring held in the lower half of the clamp. Can anyone tell me if I am correct?
As mine was already tight I have taken the paint off the mating faces so it will hopefully clamp a little tighter. Is the spacer supposed to grip the clamp and column? It is shaped and has high and low points.
I'm still looking for a definitive answer about the "spacer" and steering column clamp. (Pictures are in the post above on Page 4). The grey metal spacer (in the second picture) just to the right of the white tube I'm propping the steering column with while the clamp is off was round the outer column when I removed the clamp but I didn't notice where. It must have been between the bottom of the section that widens out to accept the stalks and above the mounting plate for the ignition switch. It isn't a complete circle, nor is it round - it waves in and out. The "band" isn't a constant width either it narrows and widens as the diameter increases and decreases. Rubbish description I know, but hopefully you get the idea in conjuction with the picture! For all I know it may just be to hold the rubber bung into the column, shown half under it in the second picture.
I started fastening the column clamp back on with this "spacer" inside it between the "grooves" on the inner face, which is where I assumed it should have been in order to grip the outer column and stop the movement I described. It feels as though the two column clamp halves may have quite a gap if I carry on tightening. I'm reluctant to do this until I'm sure the spacer should be there as I don't want to flatten the bumps round the outside of it only to find out it should be somewhere else later and I can't get a replacement.
Anyone got any idea's? I haven't posted any more photos as it's still inside the partly tightened clamp, and anyone who's removed the clamp with the dash in will understand my reluctance to take the nuts back off the clamp once you've got the clamp back in place and the nuts on!
Thanks,
Richard
-
BTW I 'm sure the column has been disconnected from the rack at some time as the self cancelling isn't centred and there are marks on the column and steering wheel mounting that down't line up, but were clearly put there for that purpose!
-
Does the diagram on the page below help?
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID005792
-
Yes Thanks it does. It shows the spacer where I have fitted it! And I just found this for a Triumph Vitesse which shows it as 609639 - red circle was already on image
-
Or maybe this diagram might help: http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/tcparts/h/tcha.pdf
I don't remember all the details but there is a clamp that is bolted on the inner shaft and has a set screw with a jam nut (it's hard to tell but it's item #3 in the diagram). This should be set to ride against end of the outer steering column.
I'm not sure about the spacer but from your description, you might have a problem with the turn signal/light controls (I assume the US and UK TCSs are the same in this regard - the wipers, horn, washer, turns signals, bright headlights are on stalks and the guts are covered with a fiberglass cover that is upholstered in vinyl like the seats.). Sometimes the plastic clamp can break and the steering column controls are no longer anchored. I had this problem so I sawed a slot and wrapped a piece of steel strapping to make a new clamp (see attached picture). You can't see where I sawed the slot but I think you can see what I mean. IIRC, there is also a tab on the steering column controls which positions it radially. It kind of sounded like that might be broken(?) in which case I can't be much help except to say that those are Spitfire pieces and are available wherever fine Spitfire parts are sold.
I hope that helps at least a little.
-
Thanks BDA/jbcolier. The UK special retains the original controls by the look of it. The right hand setup in BDA's link. Left Hand stalk only does high/low beam and flash. The right does indicators. I suspect only federal cars had extra stalk control. Jbcolliers link and the diagram I found show the "spacer" I referred to. All the bits are metal on this setup, except some bushes that guide the inner column within the outer I believe.
-
Yeah, I thought that might be the case after your reply to JB's post. Oh well...
-
So I'm finally getting round to ordering the studs and nuts (as well as some other bits). I'm doing them all as I don't know if the rest have been previously damaged as well.
Am I better with 12mm studs or the originals? ( I need to get the nuts/washers anyway) . I have the original Lotus alloys.
Banks seem to only du kits for the 12mm variants, which are considerably cheaper than buying 16 of each of the originals!
-
.....and is it a straight swap or do the hubs need drilling for the 12mm studs.
Tanks in advance.
Richard
-
I have 12mm studs. I think the hubs had to be drilled for them. If you are not going to tapered nuts, you should see if you can get 12mm nuts with washers and then drill the wheels if needed. But unless you have some reason for going to the larger studs like a much more powerful engine, you intend to drive it really hard, or you want to make changes to the wheels (e.g. tapered nuts) the stock 3/8" studs should be sufficient.
-
Hi BDA,
Thanks for the reply. I'll stick with standard then.
I'll email Lotus Supplies and see if they do a studs/bolts bundle for the standard aet like they do for the 12mm versions.
Cheers,
Richard
-
OK, so it goes to Richard@Banks Europa so I'll probably ring on Friday/Monday
-
Any place that supplies classic MGs or Triumphs should have studs for you.
-
Probably ought to buy them from Moss then as they address right next to work. I'll still need the wheel nuts though as two of mine are stripped.
Thanks again.
-
I had missed all this about your wheel studs and nuts, but I've recently gone through much of what you're doing.
I have 70's era Appliance wheels that are now obsolete antiques and broke the 'shaft' part off of one nut. Well! Quite a big deal. It's a smaller O.D. than any other I've seen. I ultimately decided to modify the wheels to take a more-standard 60 degree tapered nut, but doing that makes it critical that I get longer studs. The old originals probably weren't long enough for these wheels anyway.
So while I'm doing that, I think I'll go up to 12mm x 1.5 size. I'll have to get the hub off. Haven't done that yet.
I got the studs yesterday, P/N CLP9037L for a Land Rover Freelander. They are supposed to be same knurl diameter as the Spitfire ones we have and they seem to be (but I didn't have my glasses on to read my vernier caliper). Rimmer Bros. in the UK has them. OEM and aftermarket at about 1/3 the price.
Here's an article about the change as applied to a Triumph: http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/upgrade_spitfire_wheel_studs.html
Once I get the hub off, I think I'm home free.
Good luck!.... I have pictures and about 147 different dimensions, if you want any of that.
-
So I checked the cooling system with an antifreeze tester, and it would appear to be just water! Its getting towards freezing weather time and the otter switch isn't working, just a manual override on the cooling fan. I've ordered an aluminium radiator, with fan from ebay (£135) which should be here by the end of the week.
What temperatures does the otter switch turn the fan on/off at?
The replacement radiator comes with tapped hole, I'll find out what size when it arrives.
I'll probably take or down to Moss when it does and see what fan switches they have available that fit, hence the question above. Its next door to where I work and I'm going in on Thursday anyway to pick up a new interior light for the grand sum of £8.50! It's cheaper th o buy the whole fitting than just the lens and chrome shield!
-
This topic has come up before. I thought JB had come up with more specific suggestions but I did find this from JB that should get you pointed in the right direction (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=768.msg5703#msg5703).
Those Chinese aluminum radiators are pretty common so somebody else might post their solution.
-
This topic has come up before. I thought JB had come up with more specific suggestions but I did find this from JB that should get you pointed in the right direction (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=768.msg5703#msg5703)
Thanks. That's just what I was after.
Cheers, Richard
-
I finally got round to doing some work on the car.
I'm trying to replace the missing plastic bushes at the bottom of the gear lever with the brass ones from SJS. I got the centre console out and dropped the gear lever. As there isn't a cat in hells chance I'll be able to fit them without moving the lever joint back to the access hole in the tunnel. I undid the centre joint from the ball housing to give me more movement backwards. Still not enough movement so I tried to remove the roll pin where the rear section joins to the selector shaft. It's been driven in from below and the end mushroomed. It sticks out about 5mm from both sides. I can't get at it very well from above because the gearbox mount (or maybe the hoop from the chassis it mounts to?) Is in the way.
Any tips on how to remove it? I'm wary of applying too much leverage, or force/ blows as I don't damage the shaft ( or crack the transaxle casing)
-
Since you disconnected the center from the bell housing maybe by disconnecting the linkage from the tranny, you can pull the whole linkage back till you can address the front of the linkage from the access hole.
-
Since you disconnected the center from the bell housing maybe by disconnecting the linkage from the tranny, you can pull the whole linkage back till you can address the front of the linkage from the access hole.
That's what I was trying to do. I couldn't get the roll pin out from the selector shaft, so can't disconnect it from the transmission. That's why I'm asking for any tips on getting the roll pin out.
I gave up and refitted everything. To add insult to injury, when I was clearing up I discovered I'd left the piece of foam out that goes under the centre console/ armrest So I need to take it out again tomorrow, and refit the two nuts that hold the choke/heater controls that have already stolen time that I'll never get back :headbanger:
-
Could you use a C clamp and a small socket, press it out? the top hat bushings really help if yours are worn. You also may be able to tighten the shoulder bolt at the bottom of the shifter lever, which would tighten up a bit on the plastic bushings.
-
Sorry, I was so wrapped up in your getting access to the front of your linkage, I didn't remember what your real problem was! I like Andy's idea. If that doesn't work you could maybe make a press by bending a piece of steel to go around the u-joint and and a nut. You could screw a bolt through the nut to push out the pin. I probably didn't explain it very well, but the idea is to make something that works like the picture I've attached.
-
Thanks to you both.
The c clamp and socket probably has the best chance of success, because of the (lack of) access issue.
No need to apologise BDA. I actually have a wiper remover (somewhere), and a ball joint separator that is similar in design. That may work with a piece of flat steel between the forks and a socket around the pin.
I'll try and remember to take photo's. I'm sure I'm not the only person who has had this issue!
-
When roll pins go bell shaped, I use a small battery powered angle grinder to flatten them to remove the flare, and then a very small diameter drift to push them through.
If necessary renew the roll pin. They are not expensive.
-
The C clamp/socket idea was the first thing I thought of. Usually, I'll draw blood with my first idea - so be wary... There is a modification wrote up - somewhere - that uses a 1/4 inch, or maybe a 5/16 inch bolt in place of the pin. also the bracket that slips over the selector shaft is cut, so the bolt gives some clamping force. Supposedly some selector shafts have the hole enlarged from play in the joint. I don't know. This modification had been done to my TCS when I purchased it.
-
So I worked out why my wheel nuts were stripping. The replacement I got from Lotus supplies have about 5mm more thread as the sleeve is longer into the wheel.
The ones I got from Ebay, that were supposed to have a 3mm washer with 15mm of sleeve after the washer (seemed ideal for the 16mm thick wheel) actually came with a 2.7mm washer and stuck out by between 16.3 and 16.6mm! :(
The washers from the original nuts are thicker and I have been able to use these. The Ebay seller called me and he has sent me a set of 6.2mm washers from the wheel nuts for Dunlop D1 wheels they sell.
I had to clean up the studs, using a 3/8 tapping die with just my fingers as they haven't had wheel nuts fitted almost to the bottom of the thread before.
Finally finished fitting them tonight. Rear drums don't have the countersunk screws fitted, but the wheels will hold them on anyway!
The left front wheel rocks a couple of mm when gripped top and bottom, but not side to side. I'm assuming wheel bearing as I can't see any movement in the trunnion or top ball joint. I understand this is a tapered bearing, can it possibly just be tightened?
So I took it for a quick (slow really the roads are 20mph in the immediate area) test drive and now the speedo doesn't work! I've obviously been playing gynacologist in the chassis backbone while trying to sort out gear lever bushes (a job for another day when I finally get the rear roll pin out) and I've also replaced all the dim backlight bulbs with green LED's. It doesn't feel like the cable is detached at either end and I'm hoping it's just the Longer LED bulb is interfering with the speedo mechanism (thought of this after I came in of course). Does anyone know if this is possible? Hoping it's not a stripped plastic speedo drive in the gearbox.
Reminds me of when I had my mini!
-
The countersunk screws should be available at a hardware store.
The front wheel bearings are two tapered roller bearings so yes, it's probably a matter of tightening the nut on the stub axle. Take out the cotter pin and slowly tighten the nut while you turn the wheel. Some use a torque wrench (beam type works well here but is not necessary) and don't tighten the nut more than about ten ft-lbs. You will feel the wheel become harder to turn. Loosen the nut (still turning the wheel) until the wheel spins freely. install the cotter pin at the first opportunity after it spins freely.
I installed LEDs fo all my gauges and apparently the LED in my oil temp gauge was long enough to interfere with the needle so I just pulled it out a little bit. I doubt it stripped the speedo gears in the tranny. The shards of plastic would cause havoc with your tranny (ask me how I know).
-
Good news. I pulled the Bulb out a bit, fiddled with connection for the speedo cable on the back of the guage and the cable routing, wiggled the connection into the gearbox and cut the cable ties I had used to attach it to the choke cable sunset the armrest to lift it off the handbrake cable.
Don't know which it was but it works again - for now!
-
I don't think any of those things would fix your speedo not registering problem.
I don't have a speedo cable so what I could be way off (and if I am, hopefully someone will straighten me out). I think it might be that your speedo cable is broken. If you pull on the cable on one end and somebody else watches the other end for movement. If there isn't any, then it's busted. If it's not broken, I would lube your speedo cable. I don't remember what people use for that but I think it they use tranny oil. Try to squirt some into the cable sheath at the speedo end (maybe a quarter cup). Some other lube or quantity might be more appropriate but I don't think this will hurt you.
-
Yeah, that seems likely. I'll probably leave it for now while it's working though, I've enough other stuff to do on it at the moment. I'll definitely make sure I lubricate it when I replace it.
-
I've been to work in the Europa a few times recently (only about 10 minutes/3miles). I was working on a Sunday a couple of weeks ago when it was hot (for the UK about 26°C). When I went home at lunch time the engine temperature got past the mark between 90 and 130. Same again on the way back and on the way home. Engine fan was turned on all the time for the last two journeys (manually as the otter switch is disconnected) .
There were no issues with running, just getting hot. I haven't driven the car since as I'm finally going to fit the aluminium radiator and cooling fan I bought last year!
When I got the car the heater wasn't working. The outlet from the heater valve was completely plugged with white deposits. I cleared it out by hand using a drill bit and it's been fine since.
My question is should I flush the cooling system with a proprietary flushing agent before I remove the old radiator? (If so any UK recommendations?) I am worried I may loosen deposits that may get trapped in the engine. I will of course be running water from a hose through the system to flush it through before putting everything back together. I'll probably flush the chassis tubes by themselves from both ends, as well as the heater tubes and radiator. I'll also be removing the thermostat housing to check for deposits in there while I'm at it.
Thanks in advance.
-
I spent about half an hour today straightening the matrix of the metal fins of a radiator where they were flattened on the face.
I suggest you have a look at the radiator itself to make sure air is passing through it properly, the fins are not flattened, and the gap between the fins is not full of dirt.
If the fan is working, the pump is pumping the coolant around properly, the system is full, and air is passing through the rad properly, the system should not be overheating.
Also make sure the fan is rotating the correct way and blowing, not sucking.
-
The fan is blowing the "right" way. The ill check the fins when I swap the radiator. I'll also check the between the radiator and the grill in the wheelarch. It needs derusting and painting anyway. I'm half hoping they are blocked anyway as that would explain the overheating. I'll also check the thermostat.
-
I was taking some photos and measurements of the side indicator for Chuck Nukem and realised that the Spare Wheel is a long way across the car, towards the radiator. The air compressor for the Air Horns is mounted to the front of the inner wheel arch and stops the wheel moving further towards the passenger side (UK car). I noticed in the workshop manual it shows the air horns mounted on the floor of this compartment on the radiator side.
Question: Is the spare wheel usually further across from the radiator, and is it likely to be impeding air flow enough to cause my overheating?
I do still need to check the actual temperatures with my infra-red thermometer too - on dull black surface or hose for best results.
I will still be changing the radiator/fan in the near future.
-
On my TCS, the spare is held in place in front of the driver (passenger for you Brits) with a long bolt with a big washer that goes through the center of the wheel (Lotus Brand) and screws into a threaded bobbin in the floor of the front of the car. So it is on the other side from the radiator so it will not impede airflow to the radiator at all.
I would take temps all over the place - just in front of both hose bibs on the radiator, the thermostat housing, transfer tubes, etc. Emissivity will affect your readings, flat black giving the best readings. For more about that see here: https://ennologic.com/emissivity-infrared-thermometer-readings/
Another point is that distance from the "target" makes a difference. The documentation for your thermometer should tell you about that.
-
Question: Is the spare wheel usually further across from the radiator, and is it likely to be impeding air flow enough to cause my overheating?
Can't answer your questions re spare wheel placement but I'd be surprised if it had any appreciable effect on radiator air flow.
Why?
Because the front compartment is essentially under (some) positive pressure from air entering through the grill.
With that said, it leaks like a sieve to an extent which is unavoidable. But it's worth making sure the sponge rubber across the top of the plenum divider is in decent order because that's a large potential area for air "leakage".
-
Question: Is the spare wheel usually further across from the radiator, and is it likely to be impeding air flow enough to cause my overheating?
Can't answer your questions re spare wheel placement but I'd be surprised if it had any appreciable effect on radiator air flow.
Why?
Because the front compartment is essentially under (some) positive pressure from air entering through the grill.
With that said, it leaks like a sieve to an extent which is unavoidable. But it's worth making sure the sponge rubber across the top of the plenum divider is in decent order because that's a large potential area for air "leakage".
The sponge is good. If anything it's a bit too good, as I'm pretty sure that is what holds the right rear corner of the bonnet slightly proud. I'll see if it's any better after I fit the new weathershield locks.
-
If your clutch is both dragging and slipping, and has full pedal travel, it’s probably on its last legs.
I have got those exact symptoms with a brand new heavy duty clutch driven plate.
Does this mean the clutch cover plate needs replacing?
I cleaned up all the gearbox oil from the bell housing, the new gearbox oil seal is working perfectly, but gears are very hard to select, and the clutch is even slipping in 2nd.
Plus the clutch is making a noise when being slipped during 3 point turns, which is definitely not the release bearing.
-
It's a lot of work to get in there so I always fit new, matching parts.
Can you feel "resistance" high up on the clutch pedal's travel?
Is the clutch pedal low (limited travel)? Or high (further out than the brake pedal)?
Did you fit a new release bearing?
Can you describe the noise further? Are you sure it's associated with the clutch and not just the sharp turn?
-
It's a lot of work to get in there so I always fit new, matching parts.
Can you feel "resistance" high up on the clutch pedal's travel?
Is the clutch pedal low (limited travel)? Or high (further out than the brake pedal)?
Did you fit a new release bearing?
Can you describe the noise further? Are you sure it's associated with the clutch and not just the sharp turn?
I have ordered a new release bearing and clutch cover. Everything else including the pedal and cable is new. The pedal feels quite normal with the clutch biting about 1/3 up on release.
Gear selection is very difficult, 1,2 and R are hard, 3 & 4 very difficult.
The clutch screeches when slipping during slow manoevres, not when the pedal is just depressed to engage the release bearing.
If the diaphragm is weak, what would the symptoms be? This car is nearly 50 years old, does the spring go in the diaphragm just through age, rather than mileage?
-
This kind of thing is not easy to diagnose over the phone (so to speak).
I would suspect the pressure plate (AKA: clutch cover) is the problem. I would also replace the pilot bearing/bushing and the release bearing.
Is the clutch disc/plate from the same supplier and manufacturer as the new parts you just ordered?
Is there virtually zero hours on the clutch disc/plate?
If the answer to either question is no, then get a new matching disc as well.
While it's apart, check the clutch fork, pivots, return spring, etc. Replace anything suspect, and lube it all carefully.
-
Clutch driven plate, brand new.
If when I fit the new clutch cover and clutch release bearing, the clutch still slips, I have run out of ideas.......
-
If the diaphragm is weak, what would the symptoms be? This car is nearly 50 years old, does the spring go in the diaphragm just through age, rather than mileage?
When I did mine a few years ago it was very difficult to select gears and yet the pressure plate was in great condition, it was the cover and those finger springs that were the problem.
I persisted for a while struggling with it but I eventually found that if I selected a gear the instant the clutch pedal went down, ok. Leave it a few seconds and it got harder, it was almost as if the springs were relaxing under load.
It surprised me, I would have expected the plate to go first but in that case it was the cover. But it was probably the original clutch assembly, I've no notes of it being changed before. I changed the whole lot, incl release bearing because I didn't want to do it twice !
Brian
-
If the diaphragm is weak, what would the symptoms be? This car is nearly 50 years old, does the spring go in the diaphragm just through age, rather than mileage?
When I did mine a few years ago it was very difficult to select gears and yet the pressure plate was in great condition, it was the cover and those finger springs that were the problem.
I persisted for a while struggling with it but I eventually found that if I selected a gear the instant the clutch pedal went down, ok. Leave it a few seconds and it got harder, it was almost as if the springs were relaxing under load.
It surprised me, I would have expected the plate to go first but in that case it was the cover. But it was probably the original clutch assembly, I've no notes of it being changed before. I changed the whole lot, incl release bearing because I didn't want to do it twice !
Brian
Thanks for that, it gives me hope.
If the fingers were flexing, that would make gear changes difficult.
If the diaphragm were weak, the clutch would slip.
I have never had these problems before, but then again, I am dealing with a car which is 49 years old.
-
Success, at long last.
A new clutch cover and release bearing solved the screeching when the clutch was being slipped, and the slipping clutch even in 2nd gear, and the gear selection problem.
All 4 forward gear can fairly easily be found now, with 1st and reverse for maneuvering out of the garage very easy to find.
Thanks for your help, I have never had similar clutch cover problems before, so I had no idea it would affect gear selection so badly. :) :) :)
-
Excellent!!
-
Now the serious stuff. I believe I've traced the brake fluid leak to the connection into the master cylinder from the reservoir. It only seems to leak after I've driven the car, and possibly the fluid has warmed up.
Question 1
Are the steering rack bellows supposed to be this close to the master cylinder, Some of the folds rub across it
The pipe is very close to the bellows normally but I don't think it should rub. I'm in the process of re-building a TC and had a similar problem, I got a new set of bellows which were a smaller diameter then the one on the car and it solved the problem.
-
Silver, great start on this thread. excellent advice from the other posts. Where did you get that great sign? I would love one for my Barn/garage/kayak storage area. Keep up the posts and pictures.
Sandy
ebay UK --> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEVER-UNDERESTIMATE-AN-OLD-MAN-WITH-A-CLASSIC-LOTUS-EUROPA-METAL-SIGN-8-X-8/112844016710?hash=item1a46070c46:g:nXEAAOSwcN5amAFB (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEVER-UNDERESTIMATE-AN-OLD-MAN-WITH-A-CLASSIC-LOTUS-EUROPA-METAL-SIGN-8-X-8/112844016710?hash=item1a46070c46:g:nXEAAOSwcN5amAFB)
I'm restoring a TC and the closing plate is missing, I checked with Richard Winters at Banks Lotus, he's advised that they were important to spread the load and stop the front end developing cracks. They make replacements which are not expensive.
-
The blue wires are for the fan override switch fitted by a PO! Does the windscreen washer tube usually run under there as well? If not where is it normally routed?
The handbrake cable almost always rubs on the bodywork at the front pivot, it's a hopeless design. You can cut a piece of plastic tube and slip it over the heater pipes at the back of the chassis to stop the cable rubbing.
-
I fitted the closing plate (from Banks) in 2019.
It's currently up in the air with the cooling system drained as it was leaking from one of the hoses to the heater (not in the cabin). I'm currently flushing years of rust/deposited out of the engine/radiator/pipes).
I also will be dropping the rear of the gearbox so I can get the roll pin out in order to pull the gear linkage back far enough to change the bushing on the bottom of the gear lever (from nothing to brass!).
I then need to bleed the brakes, oil and filter change and rebuild the carburetters as one has started leaking fuel, probably from the accelerator pump diaphragm!
-
I'd noticed the steering wheel was scraping against the column surround and that the "outer column" that holds the indicator/headlight stalks could rotate slightly and also move in and out so I decided to look at that. I also wanted to finish getting the centre horn push to work.
The outer column was moving inside the clamp that holds it to the dashboard with two studs, one of which is a ground point for some of the wiring. After I took it apart I noticed a shaped steel spacer which I assume is supposed to locate in the groove on the inside of the two clamp halves (it's easier to look at the pictures). I assume that the join faces up so that it doesn't pinch the wiring held in the lower half of the clamp. Can anyone tell me if I am correct?
As mine was already tight I have taken the paint off the mating faces so it will hopefully clamp a little tighter. Is the spacer supposed to grip the clamp and column? It is shaped and has high and low points.
[/quote]
I'm still looking for a definitive answer about the "spacer" and steering column clamp. (Pictures are in the post above on Page 4). The grey metal spacer (in the second picture) just to the right of the white tube I'm propping the steering column with while the clamp is off was round the outer column when I removed the clamp but I didn't notice where. It must have been between the bottom of the section that widens out to accept the stalks and above the mounting plate for the ignition switch. It isn't a complete circle, nor is it round - it waves in and out. The "band" isn't a constant width either it narrows and widens as the diameter increases and decreases. Rubbish description I know, but hopefully you get the idea in conjuction with the picture! For all I know it may just be to hold the rubber bung into the column, shown half under it in the second picture.
I started fastening the column clamp back on with this "spacer" inside it between the "grooves" on the inner face, which is where I assumed it should have been in order to grip the outer column and stop the movement I described. It feels as though the two column clamp halves may have quite a gap if I carry on tightening. I'm reluctant to do this until I'm sure the spacer should be there as I don't want to flatten the bumps round the outside of it only to find out it should be somewhere else later and I can't get a replacement.
Anyone got any idea's? I haven't posted any more photos as it's still inside the partly tightened clamp, and anyone who's removed the clamp with the dash in will understand my reluctance to take the nuts back off the clamp once you've got the clamp back in place and the nuts on!
Thanks,
Richard
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The clamp has a rubber gasket in the 'groove' you mentioned, between the clamp and the column. The is nice and stable when tightened correctly but may feel like there is a slight bit of give. Don't overtighten, the top of the clamp has threaded inserts pressed in, they will pull loose. I've made a new clamp for mine and I'll post a picture later.
-
Silver, great start on this thread. excellent advice from the other posts. Where did you get that great sign? I would love one for my Barn/garage/kayak storage area. Keep up the posts and pictures.
Sandy
ebay UK --> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEVER-UNDERESTIMATE-AN-OLD-MAN-WITH-A-CLASSIC-LOTUS-EUROPA-METAL-SIGN-8-X-8/112844016710?hash=item1a46070c46:g:nXEAAOSwcN5amAFB (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEVER-UNDERESTIMATE-AN-OLD-MAN-WITH-A-CLASSIC-LOTUS-EUROPA-METAL-SIGN-8-X-8/112844016710?hash=item1a46070c46:g:nXEAAOSwcN5amAFB)
I used a sheet of aluminium instead of the steel closure plate, which rusts badly there.
I also ran a separate earth wire from the front where all the earths are gathered together and earth through the chassis plate, to the main chassis where the closure place is attached to the cross-member by 3 bolts.
I'm restoring a TC and the closing plate is missing, I checked with Richard Winters at Banks Lotus, he's advised that they were important to spread the load and stop the front end developing cracks. They make replacements which are not expensive.
-
Here is the steering bracket (bottom part) that I made, when tightening the original the threaded inserts became loose. I used a piece of steel angle and trimmed it with vinyl, it's pretty simple but nice and strong. You can see the rubber gasket that fits between the 'grooves' this clamps nicely around the column and stops it from moving when you turn the wheel. I used some 3mm thick rubber matting, Raf.
-
Here is the steering bracket (bottom part) that I made, when tightening the original the threaded inserts became loose. I used a piece of steel angle and trimmed it with vinyl, it's pretty simple but nice and strong. You can see the rubber gasket that fits between the 'grooves' this clamps nicely around the column and stops it from moving when you turn the wheel. I used some 3mm thick rubber matting, Raf.
I'm pretty sure that's not standard. If you look later in my thread you can see I found a triumph vitesse column exploded view showing the metal piece I asked about http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=3266.msg33642#msg33642 (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=3266.msg33642#msg33642) . When I fitted this as indicated in the diagram it fixed the issue. This actually fits between the grooves you used to locate the rubber.
-
Here is the steering bracket (bottom part) that I made, when tightening the original the threaded inserts became loose. I used a piece of steel angle and trimmed it with vinyl, it's pretty simple but nice and strong. You can see the rubber gasket that fits between the 'grooves' this clamps nicely around the column and stops it from moving when you turn the wheel. I used some 3mm thick rubber matting, Raf.
I'm pretty sure that's not standard. If you look later in my thread you can see I found a triumph vitesse column exploded view showing the metal piece I asked about http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=3266.msg33642#msg33642 (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=3266.msg33642#msg33642) . When I fitted this as indicated in the diagram it fixed the issue. This actually fits between the grooves you used to locate the rubber.
Yes, I saw that. Although the column is from a Herald/Vitesse the fitting is not exactly the same. There is no intermediate clamp bracket on the Europa, No 17 on the parts list attached is an impact bracket. But, whatever works is usually a good solution, Raf.
-
Good job on your bracket.
Just out of curiosity and caution, did you check the condition of the steering column outer shaft tube?
My S2 had a nice crack exactly in that area?
Dakazman
-
Good job on your bracket.
Just out of curiosity and caution, did you check the condition of the steering column outer shaft tube?
My S2 had a nice crack exactly in that area?
Dakazman
Yes, it's in good condition.
It's pretty flimsy aluminium but I think it's designed as a collapsible safety feature. I would prefer an air-bag in an ideal world!