Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Garage => Topic started by: Clifton on Wednesday,April 29, 2015, 03:01:45 PM
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I've edited this post to include the engine swap I am also doing. I had another thread but I will just continue to post everything on here.
Engine is a Toyota 2GR (3.5 V6), same as in the Lotus Evora.
I've been working on a new radiator/condenser set up and mounting a Vintage Air evap. Radiator and electric fans are from a Celica. I finally got the evap bolted in and then decided to make a new dash. I don't really want to but it will look better and I can have 2 center vents instead of one.
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That looks really interesting! I hope it all comes together for you!
If you'd consider buying a good dash rather than making one, I'd recommend Prestige Autowood (http://www.prestigeautowood.com/). He makes beautiful dashes with a choice of several different woods. He finishes both the front and back, as well as the edges of the holes to protect it against moisture, he includes all the lettering, AND he will do custom designs. The quality is really top notch. Maybe you can get an idea of the kind of work he does from the attached picture.
He made my dash which includes a glovebox door and an extra hole for a gauge but what's more interesting is that he was thinking about making an instrument binnacle from wood. That didn't turn out to be practical but his willingness to do something totally different impressed me. I'm sure he would be willing to work with you. but the quality of the dash impressed me more.
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That's a very big condenser! The Europa cabin is very small.
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That's a very big condenser! The Europa cabin is very small.
True but I'm In Phoenix. I don't think ac over kill here is possible between June through September. I have a regular cab Nissan pickup that takes atleast 20 minutes to cool down when it's over 110*, actually it never really gets cool, just tolerable. The condenser is actually a little smaller than the radiator. The size worked out good for mounting too.
BDA, Thanks for the link. I think I am just going to cover mine with vinyl and try a single center with two side vents.
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I finally finished the dash. I used 3/8 Birch. I also deleted the defrost fronts before I wrapped the dash. It also makes the top look much cleaner. I wrapped every thing with vinyl. I made a new lower bump pad from wood and covered it in foam fist to give it some cushion.
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Pics
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I installed LED bulbs for the stock gauges to match the Speedhut tach and speedo lights. I used the 9 LED white bulbs. They are a little too long on the amp and oil gauge so I put them in have way.
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Very nicely done! The dash is sort of E-type esque! :)
I found the LEDs were a great improvement for the gauges, too. I also replaced all the exterior lights except the headlights. I can't wait for them to be reasonably priced!
How's the A/C coming?
Congratulations on a job well done!
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That's coming together nicely, the vinyl trim you've done is very neat and looks as if it could have been done by Lotus back in the day. Great work there, I'll look forward to seeing more as you get along with it.
Brian
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Thanks guys.
The a/c is finished under the dash. I mounted the control in the console but I still need to wrap that in vinyl after I figure out how I am doing the shifter boot. I also need to run two hard lines from the foot well bulkhead to the front. That will be all I can do on the a/c until I get the engine in. I talked to the junk yard yesterday. He said they are still looking for a car for me but they have all been 4 cyl in the auctions.
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Beautiful work! I like how you got rid of the glove box, looks great!
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Nice work! Impressive ...
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If you haven't read the other thread. The engine is a Toyota 2GR plus turbo. Transmission is a Toyota E153 w/LSD. I just ordered a 92-93 Camry trans to get a lower final drive out of it, 3.6:1 vs the 4.1 in the E153. I used MR2 hubs and converted them to upper/lower wishbone so I could use Toyota axles.
It has taken a while to get this far but I finally got the sub frame completed enough to do a test fit today before I finish welding it together. Next, I will hang the turbo, build the exhaust and permanently weld this in. I still have a long way to go.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5619/22465779565_557cde31ac_c.jpg)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/700/22278074228_b9c2b5aed3_c.jpg)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/771/22277792450_fca0f4c77f_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5835/22278939209_9306b2e90b_c.jpg)
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That's coming together very nicely! That should be a real screamer! Keep up the great work! :welder:
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wow stunning piece of work Well done
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The hard part is done. I finally have the subframe welded to the main frame. I'm working on the brakes next, then a/c lines. I thought I had some pics of the exhaust with turbo mounted but I guess I never took any.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/740/23695482016_1c41a55ed1_c.jpg)
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She's looking great! You do excellent work! :welder:
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Looks great. Any plans to manufacture the sub frame?
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I like the work you've done on that frame. I've often wondered why folks struggle trying to fit some engines in the confines of the original chassis when the logical conclusion is to make the chassis accommodate the engine. (within reason)
I'd imagine that's what Lotus did when GKN47D was built ?
Brian
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No plans in making more, I wouldn't do this again. I also had to make suspension that would fit and it had to be double wishbone as a strut won't fit. That probably took as long as the frame. I would probably go with the 4age or Ztec with turbo.
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I made a dual master cylinder bracket using a Wilwood balance bar. I found a program that calculates brake pedal force, travel, G's. ect if anyone is interested. http://www.jakelatham.com/radical/info/brake_calculators.shtml#pistondiameters
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1521/24111194435_3fe3c10159_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5699/24028605811_ced35585fa_c.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1674/23743396549_c04cff19fa_c.jpg)
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I finally got it running. Brakes work great (Wilwood front and rear). Clutch is a bit stiff but works. Most of the body work is done but I need to veil it and flare it. Wheels are temporary.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruKQ41ruQpw&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruKQ41ruQpw&feature=youtu.be)
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I’m always amazed at the level of projects people take on in their garages. Nicely done, looking forward to seeing the updates!
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That must have felt good! Congratulations! :beerchug:
I'm looking forward to more updates, pictures and videos!
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Always excited to see long term project finally hit the road. You do excellent work, well, done.
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Sounds incredible, and looks quick! Congratulations!
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The initial run was fun but something wasn't right. I used a Rav4 ecu on a Camry harness. The ecu wasn't seeing either cam position and I had no power to the Maf. I moved 4 pins on the harness, cleared the codes and went back out with my partner in crime (wife). It is insane how much torque it has even at 1800 rpm. I've had stupid fast cars but nothing with instant torque like this. I'll do a better video soon.
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Hats off to you, Clifton! I can't wait to see the next video!
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Short video of the car in the garage.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BoFdaCyktG0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BoFdaCyktG0)
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It looks like she's coming along!
I've seen "wavey" brake discs similar to yours before - maybe on motorcycles? What is the advantage to that shape disc?
You also have a very small battery. Are you going to use that battery when you're done? Or are you planning to track or auto-X the car thus not needing a bigger battery. I'm also curious your compression ratio.
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Scalloped rotors are just lighter, they don't work any better.
The battery is staying. It's a Deka etx20. It is 14.5 lbs and has 310 CCA's. When I first tried to start it and get fuel through everything, I was cranking off and on for a while and it cranked fast every time. I will autox it a few times but my track days are done. It is just going to be the weekend car.
Compression ratio is 10.8:1
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Thanks Clifton. That looks like an interesting battery to be so small and be able to turn over that motor so reliably! Your car is going to be a monster! I can't wait to see the finished product!
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I've been busy on the body. Most of it is veiled. I just added material to fix the door gaps, ground out the cracks and I'm finishing veiling the doors. I pulled a plug off one of the flares so I could check the fitment with thetemp wheels. Tires are on the way for the permanent wheels. Then I can get the flares mounted.
(https://i.imgur.com/7fv2emO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Y9QdOgc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/x9lst3S.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/E7qWvaK.jpg)
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It's looking good! I can't wait to see it after you paint it! What color will you be using?
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Alpine white, it's BMW white.
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That'll look nice!
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The flares are finished. I need to finish the front luggage compartment and then prime it.
(https://i.imgur.com/RptbqHr.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/jHQXptb.jpg)
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Thanks for the pictures, Clifton! Things are looking good! She should look great with a color coat! Can't wait to see it!
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It has been painted for a while now. I am close to having 400 miles on it. I finally took some pics with the windshield in. Everything works great, a/c is cold, heat finally works, bad servo on the valve. Brakes are dialed in and feel great. I still need to get my camber and tire pressures spot on but I have plenty of time. No one does autocross in the summer, it is too hot here. The car is brutal fast with stupid torque. The only real problem I had was the gas pedal was way too sensitive. It's a drive by wire and I had to cut a few inches off the bottom to fit under the dash. I tried running a Pedal Commander set on Econo mode but it still wasn't enough. I ended up raising the pedal into the front luggage compartment and making it 3.5" longer, along with the pedal commander on economy mode. Now it is easy to modulate. Just like a regular car.
(https://i.imgur.com/5SwLNOph.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Yi6SCLSh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rdGRru0h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iO9WOwMh.jpg)
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She's a beauty (and with A/C!!!), Clifton!!! Congratulations!! :beerchug:
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Wow! That looks great! How about some interior and engine bay shots (please).
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I had a track Z that was 2040lbs with 500hp, it was so much fun but not a street car. My goal with this was to keep it under 1800lbs with a wide power band. Final weight came to 1691lbs with 3/4 tank of gas. Heavier than an S2 but about what a TC weighs but with a/c, good brakes, 340hp, wide sticky tires, and a bullet proof transmission w/ LSD that I can drive on the street and autoX.
With two passengers I have a 38%f / 62%r weight distribution. A little tail heavy but the same a new 911T. It is balanced pretty good with the wider rear track, wider rear tires and chosen spring rates. I went back to my 200 ish ft skid pad this morning to try the new front pressure and chaulked tires (cannot find my pyro), still understeers, but not as easily. Even on throttle lift, it will not step out.
The turbo bypass is a little ugly. I still don't know if I will run it with the turbo. The plan was 4-6psi. TBD
(https://i.imgur.com/WIibCwZh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LXgPw9Dh.jpg)
Radiator/condensor. Barely clears the hood.
(https://i.imgur.com/gsuK7Vth.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NmApqqGh.jpg)
I used a Speedhut speedo and tach. The dash and roof are the only things finished. I need to recover the seats, door panels, and console.
(https://i.imgur.com/ysVTRPkh.jpg)
Blue thing under dash is for OBDII, I was using torque pro app. ECU is factory Toyota with the rev limit raised, trans codes removed and valve/ign timing changed a little.
(https://i.imgur.com/tQ43sNsh.jpg)
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Nicely done! I'm not a fan of turbos so I'd go without it. There seems to be plenty of power anyway but your choice.
I'd be interested in pictures of how the A/C is integrated. But then I'd be interested in just about any pictures of your car!
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Really nice touches you have there. I wish I went with white.
Ditto what BDA just asked about the ac.
Dakazman
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Nicely done! I'm not a fan of turbos so I'd go without it. There seems to be plenty of power anyway but your choice.
I'd be interested in pictures of how the A/C is integrated. But then I'd be interested in just about any pictures of your car!
The a/c hardlines run through the tunnel. You can see the charge ports in the radiator pic above and the unit on the first page. At the back, they stop at the firewall and then go rubber to the compressor. I ran hardlines around the passenger side where the factory radiator was and followed the wiring. I used an a/c bulkhead to go back into the car and connected the Vinatge air unitl with rubber lines to the bulkhead on the inside. I bought a hose crimper to make the lines then sold it when I was done. The a/c wasn't that bad to install. The unit under the dash weighed the same as the stock heater. My radiator and condenser on the mounting brackets weighed less than the factory brass/copper radiator so I only gained weight with the lines and compressor. The a/c unit has heat so it just replaced the stock heat unit. It fit right in. I drilled through the front luggage area to attach it with jacknuts mounted in the unit.
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Nice work! Looks great. I was also considering pulling fresh air from the front of the engine bay for the intake manifold versus the rear where the exhaust is.
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The a/c bulkhead and going to the unit. I mistakenly bough blue silicne hose for the heater and painted it black, that is the cracking seen.
(https://i.imgur.com/rAhU19vh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iW6N94ch.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nz7WMpFh.jpg)
Wheel side
(https://i.imgur.com/WMSA8B9h.jpg)
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Very nice car. I am interested in what vintage air setup you used along with your bracket for your brake and clutch master cylinders. Is that something you made or something that wildwood sells?
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The a/c is a mini gen II without defrost due to height. If you need defrost it would be easiest to run a single vent out the top that shuts flat when not needed.
I made the dual master bracket with the Wilwood balance bar assembly (340-1757), it's on the second page. I wish it was something I could have bought, I looked hard trying to find something I could make work. The clutch master is mounted straight the the frame. You can see them is the first part of this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BoFdaCyktG0
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This is the first autocross in it. I had 700 miles on it and it's been 13 years since I have seen the sea of cones. 1st run DNF, this is the second run and the third was almost another DNF. It had slight understeer around 25mph in my testing but a little faster on the coarse and it's loose. I'll shift that before the next one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Gyai_O_ijA
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Make sure you read your insurance policy before posting Autocross or track events with you car. Most will void your policy and not pay if you have an accident at an event and having a history doesn’t help. The investigators know to look at these sites.
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I've retired from road racing or any track days and a Europa isn't the safest thing track. I can only get severe cone damage at autocross :) , nothing will ever be claimed.
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I did another AX last week. I put a TC sway bar on the front but it is still just a little loose but better. I'll drop the rear rate by 50 lbs before the next event or try the 3/4" Addco bar.
This was my fastest and last run. I didn't feel as lost in cones this time. I dropped 6 seconds in 4 runs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jag9LqXj4RI
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I ended up making a front sway bar. I had an S2 one that was on the soft side. I tried a TC one that was better but I needed a little more. Rather than buy a 3/4" Addco I decided to buy 6' of 7/8" 4130 and make an adjustable on. I wanted to make one using a hollow splined bar but it would cost a lot more and I wasn't sure if the weight saving were worth.
I made a jig using a stock bar but pulled the ends in a little more so I could use a solid end. I had my helper(wife) heat the bar with the torch while I used a tube on the ends to bend it. I shaved of about 1/16" on both sides of the rod ends so it works on the bottom shock pin like the factory bar. I don't have the numbers in front of me but the S2 bar was around 120lbs, TC bar was around 150lbs. My bar has 3 setting 220, 300, 390. First time autocrossing with it I set it to full stiff, 390 and it had way to much understeer. It felt like a regular street car plowing through every turn. I ended up with it set on 220 and it is pretty close to perfect.
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It was very hard to control the transition of corner exit to throttle without too much throttle too soon. On wheel dyno's these engines make around 220 ft/lbs torque by 1500 rpms to about 260 peak. I was having to catch it at least one run every event and the last time it spun very fast. So I searched and found a used, NLA Racelogic traction control system and spent some time installing that. It made the car so much more driveable at the limit without fear of instant spin. Street driving will be safer too. Not much to show for pics. I made some brackets to attach some universal wheel speed sensors that pick up the end of the 8 rotor attaching bolts. Cut the injector wires on the harness, put connectors there for easy engine removal and ran the wires to the unit, picked up a ignitor signal for rpm. I also used Deustch connectors with solid crimps on everything. I will never use Weather Pack stuff again. If anyone has to use a wire connectors in there build, look into them with the solid barrel terminals.
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Traction control!!! Pretty interesting, Clifton! We carbureted guys are just going to have to be envious!
Your front roll bar is nice, too. One of many future projects is to make a new front anti roll bar that would be mounted higher. Thanks for the details of how you made yours!
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Keep posting Clifton,
I love reading about all your mods. You are a true artist.
Dakazman
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Unfortunately my sway bar on the softest setting hangs lower than stock. Somewhere I scraped the forward mount.
This is the previous event. I forgot my Gopro last weekend. You can hear it miss/cut when the traction control is working hard. It cut 3 noticeable times. If it's a light cut I don't feel it but it shows on the graph. This was at 6% slip.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8dWK7liuD4
This is from last weekend. It almost looks parked. Not the best pic but it was the best they got of it.
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They cancelled loaner helmets for the last autocross due to covid paranoia so I used the time to finally put the turbo on. I built it with the turbo but I have been running without until I got used to it. The internal wastegate hole wasn't large enough so I opened up the hole until it was almost to the flapper and radiused its inlet from the turbo inlet. Spring is 4 psi but it creeps to 6 psi at rev limiter. It's about all I can safely run with the compression. It was going to 7 psi at part throttle before the porting. I used a pressure switch to a resistor on the MAF temp sensor. It pulls 2.5 degrees of timing at 1 psi. The best I can do on a stock ecu. It doesn't knock and AFR is perfect on my wideband and Torque Pro. I have been doing a lot of logging with Torque Pro. I have two Spal fans on the intercooler triggered by temp and boost with a timer relay.
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More very interesting stuff, Clifton! Does it go as good as you expected? Is the lag significant? I'm guessing it made it a bit quieter.
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Yes, as good as I was expecting power wise. I knew I was boost limited on the factory ecu and compression so I wasn't going to get a lot more out of it. It is quite a bit quieter. I had a lot of intake noise. All 2GR's do with open filters and sound the same. Not like a V6 at all. It is a more stealth now. You can here the spool up and then just air rushing. Two mufflers keep it pretty quite too.
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Clifton,
What an amazing car you have built! How has it been running since you put the turbo in?
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Thanks Chuck.
It's good now. I was having too much boost creep even after porting the .63 wastegate I was running (internal) so I went with a larger GT3584 turbo with an internal gated .82 turbine housing. This compressor map better suits the engine flow and low boost.
I was also having too much knock, according to my retarded timing logs so I piggybacked the factory ecu with a Mapecu3. A Lotus Evora S guy was kind enough to log his timing, MAF, boost, and RPM from Torque Pro. They run 5 psi on the same engine so I used his timing and added to that after 5 psi. I'm running about 7 psi that creeps to about 8.5 psi at redline. Same as the new 430 Evora's that make 430 hp but they do it with cats and supercharger so I'm at least 430 plus a few. I also put in some 440cc AMG injectors as it was too lean with more boost. Lotus runs a 550 but they aren't the same style. These fit with some injector harness adapters but I still had to bump the fuel pressure a little higher. It's not too much that they throw a code without tuning them down though. My long terms fuel trims are around -21% but the afr is perfect under boost. I wanted to avoid intercepting and tuning the MAF signal, just timing under boost.
It's stupid fast. I have traction control set at 12% slip and it barely comes on in first, according to the graph. Just two little cut spikes if I take off at 1500 rpm.
I vented the radiator out the top most recently. It is fully ducted. I found that it still slowly got hot though. I had air that was getting trapped on the outlet of the engine. I used an infrared thermometer and found the cooler spot on the hose. I have added a 3/16" air bleed from that spot to my swirl tank. The interior is so much cooler now. Even with a/c it still got warm on the driver side with speed. There was no stopping the hot air getting in around the peddles and steering hole in the frame with a front mount radiator. I hate the hood vent but it had to be done.
The timing map picture is what I pull. I have logged a lot and know what the factory timing is at WOT and now under boost at every rpm. If anyone has an OBDII car, the blue tooth plugs are $10 on ebay and the Torque Pro app is $5.
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I had a road coarse autocross coming up on 10/13 and my car was a little loose and hard to catch at speed. On the track days, SCCA says 4 tires off and you are done. Oversteer at regular slower autocross is easier to catch. I've tried running the front bar full stiff but it just makes too much corner entry understeer and mid corner is still loose. So I decided to try a 650lb front spring. I'm on 1.9" shocks and the stiffest 1.9" is 400lbs that I was already running. I found some 1.9 to 2.25 adapters and some 1" 2.25 spacers and then some 650lb 2.25" springs. It worked. It will still step out if lifting on entry but it's pretty neutral mid corner now.
I usually run lower pressure but last road coarse, the car just got worse. This time I took temps and pressure on every run to get it dialed in for next time.
I didn't record my last and fastest run but my 3rd run was only a second slower. I ended up 10th overall out of 80 cars.
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The second run
https://youtu.be/Gx3y8_jYjlQ?si=qzfXC8weVJSNRqri
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8)
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I have a 330mm Sparco steering I love but I wanted to try running a smaller diameter steering wheel mostly for autocross and being able to turn more than 180 degrees without taking a hand off.
I got a 305mm undrilled Alpha wheel. The factory steering wheel hub is very light and I had an extra but to get it to work I figured I could use a 1/4" instead of 5mm fastener. Once I tapped for 1/4", I realized I F'd up. I should have helicoiled for the standard 5mm. I bought some 1/4" aluminum bolts, cut the heads off, drilled on a lathe and helicoiled these for 5mm. This wheel and hub saved 24 oz.
Yesterday was a regular autocross. The wheel worked great.
https://youtu.be/RV1mz4lGUfc (https://youtu.be/RV1mz4lGUfc)
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A few pics from Sunday's event.
The Elan is a wicked fast D Mod car.
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8)
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:I-agree:
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My ACT street clutch wasn't hold in the taller gears. I hate puck disks for street cars but a 2GR performance supplier came out with a disk with a marcel. It's so much more streetable than a straight puck disk. I got it in time for this weekend. SCCA event on Sunday and a PA track AX on Monday. I also went with A052's in teh front and I decided to try some Vitour P1's on the rear as A052's don't come wide enough. They are 245/35 vs 245/40-15 and look a little strange compared to the front.
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On the way home Sunday from SCCA, I got a miss twice at WOT and it wasn't traction control. On the way to the track on Monday morning, same thing. I lost a coil on my first run and went into full limp mode with zero pedal. I had to turn it off and back on, dump the clutch and keep going. I turned TC off and shifted before the rev limiter to avoid the cylinder miss induced limp mode. It didn't help. This time the ecu said the cylinder, 6. We went to Autozone at lunch and I paid $96 for a $20 coil and got 3 good runs in the afternoon. Only two cars were faster (by 1.1" and .3") and both were GT3 RS's with SCCA national winning drivers. The car is finally pretty dialed now to were I can abuse it and push 100% without it trying to go off backwards with any mistake.
I finally got the GPS working in the video. I've done a 3.6 second 0-60 on Dragy with a passenger. Probably about the same here at the start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFwPGmttnwY
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Congratulations!! Your car does indeed seem to be dialed in! :trophy:
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Hi
What a great car and story. Thank you for posting.
Berni
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Another month, another autocross.
The only change was a reduction of rear camber. 1.9* to 1.5*. After 3 runs, I could still run less. The A052's on the front could use more comparred to what the CR-1's needed but I am maxed out there.
Everything was great until run 3 and 4 was the worst. I spun the car much easier than normal and then it just got worse. My rear was getting looser. The clouds rolled in before time only runs and I wasn't having to drop rear pressure each run but that wasn't it.
On the way home it didn't feel right. 85 in the fast lane dropped to 80, then a wiggle, then the slow lane and then off the freeway. My left rear toe adjuster lock nut had comer loose. It won't allow more to in, just toe out. I stopped an my sisters that was close. It was so loose that once jacked up, I could move the wheel toe it to toe out almost an 1".
First vid is my fast run. The cone stayed in the box and I was 15th fastest out of 142 drivers. During the afternoon time only runs the car was a hand full and I was 66 fastest of 68 drivers.
Fast run
https://youtu.be/9ye4W0vbCy4?si=0ZiVJw3eDxqTRVgQ
Spin
https://youtu.be/QB2VeMwDLQM?si=ZKLl2jMql-wc06NP
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8)
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Rear toe adjuster washers are upgraded. I was using two SAE washers stacked but found some hardened machine washers that are .187" thick. These will not have any flex.
If anyone ever wants on car adjustment for some arms, these are easy to make. 1", .065" tube and a pre made 1/2-20 threaded piece. I welded a flanged bolt to one end and the rod end goes in the other. This attached to the bottom front of my rear upright.
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We had a SCCA weigh/tech day last Saturday. I had my front ARB off as I was making a new, lighter one. It came to 1685lbs.
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I finished the new arb this morning. 1" OD, .065 wall.
Old 7/8" bar was 11lbs 4.4oz, new 1" bar is 4lbs 10.1oz. Even with end links it's a pound lighter than my extra TC bar.
This puts me at 1690lbs.
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Nice! :beerchug:
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How's it mounted Clifton?
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Same as the stock one. I used thin wall tube with a 1/2-20 bolt welded to the end. It's the same ones I was running with the 7/8" bar except I added aluminum rod ends and jam nuts. To do again, I would run a bent tube arb above. I think you did yours that way.
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I did, thanx for the pic!
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Another Lotus guy at the weigh day asked if I was running a lithium battery and said they are 3.5lbs. They use Lithium iron phosphate (Lifep04). Same as I use for my house. I've read all the charge, cycle, longevity, temp v. life data. They easily last 10 years with a full disharge/charge.
On these Anti Gravity brand batteries, if the bms senses a low current draw that is draining the battery, say from being parked for weeks with an alarm or ecu killing it, it shuts off the battery while leaving enough in reserve to start the car. Push the button on top and it turns back on. I killed my first Deka by leaving the key on over night.
I went with an ATX-20. I only did a few test starts and it cranked faster than with my Deka ETX20. They seem expensive but given Lifep04's longevity compared to lead acid, they cost about the same, just lighter. I found one here on sale.
https://biohazardcycles.com/antigravity-atx20-re-start-lithium-battery-atx-20-ytx-20-ag-atx20-rs/
Another 10lbs lighter :)
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I have been slowly pulling rear camber out trying to get the temps equal. I was down to 1.3* . On Saturday, I had 4 spins in 3 runs. The car was a mess. I stiffened up the new bar and got a clean run but it was hard to drive. That night I put all the rear camber in from my previous best set up put my old front bar on as Monday was the road coarse and 4 tires off, you are done.
It felt good but I was slowly pushing to make sure I didn't have an off. After lunch, I had a warm up, fast run that timing didn't get, next run was a +1 cone (5 seconds) and I got a cylinder 6 misfire that went into limp mode, killing my last run.
This was my fastest non timed, no penalty run. Not the fastest though.
https://youtu.be/qcJAGANDp0s?si=FUZMDS3rGlCIIHQW (https://youtu.be/qcJAGANDp0s?si=FUZMDS3rGlCIIHQW)
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Pic from grid on Sunday, the bad day.
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Tires were hot on my back to back re run. I had a few 1.5+ G so I figured I would add this one too.
https://youtu.be/Jj3UvK7MLrw?si=FYEpxIapxVjNKR-N (https://youtu.be/Jj3UvK7MLrw?si=FYEpxIapxVjNKR-N)
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I'm swapping traction control systems from Race Logic to RaceTCS. My lifting of the inner front wheel on tight corner exit turns kills my acceleration until the car is staright enough for the wheel to get up to proper speed. I have to add too much slip to compensate that then is too much slip everywhere else. RaceTCS can be set to use outside wheel speed verses all wheels so it will ignore the airborne, slow wheel. Race Logic was better than no TC but it has been limiting me too much.